John S

I have a 2 1/4 inch clamp there and I did have to elongate the holes a little bit no big deal just use the round file.

It worked great got the right part number and it worked there is a difference. First picture is the left second is the right side. Thanks for the help. John S

I ordered the one from Amazon thanks again for the help. John S

Rock auto lists the 35871 but it also is unavailable at this time. I think it's my fault, I thought they were the same part# for R & L side. and I asked for two 35870's I learned just today from you guys that they are different between R & L side. I learn so much from this site, again thanks. John S

I have Two 35870 and they are identical. Summit has a 35871 but for some reason it is 6$ cheaper and not in stock and has to be special ordered. I'll probably go with inline tube. They sell the L & R as a pair and they do look different. John s

Again thank you very much Joe and Dennis that was very helpful and much appreciated. Amazing how something so simple can get complicated. Seven years ago instead of getting a Gardner exhaust system and putting it on myself I went to a muffler shop near where I live and had them put a system on. They did a great job looks good and was considerably less costly. But they use their own style hangers I believe they are 3/8 Rod mounted in a rubber insulated and they weld it to the muffler pipe. Well those welds broke and left holes in the pipe that I had to repair with a MIG welder. Instead of re-welding the mounts back on I decided to go with an OEM style hanger John S

I’ll take it back. I’ll give them that other number and see if that’s in their system. There is a summit store only 2 miles from my house the only problem is dealing with these people is they are not parts experts they’re very good with computers but not very knowledgeable on parts. In-line tube does have right and left specific that come in a set if I can’t get anywhere with summit I will go that route again thank you very much for the pictures I do appreciate it

Dual exhaust and a picture would help a lot. I have received wrong parts from Summit before and arguing with them is like trying to feed oats to a dead horse.

I got these from Summit also I’ll take a closer look at them and also look into other vendors and see if they offer a left and right The Walker part number is 35870 and from Summit it does not distinguish between right and left

I was hoping someone may have a picture of the reproduction hanger mounted because the walker hanger the one strap is too short to go to the top of the crossmember

They may be right and left side specific from the factory OEM type but when you buy walker or any reproduction Hanger they are the same

I can make it work I can make anything work it just won’t resemble the way it shows that it mounts in the assembly manual John S

Would anyone have a picture of their Monte of the OEM style muffler exhaust hanger so I can see how it mounts to the frame. The assembly manual does not give me a clear idea. John S

Replaced mine with inline tube. Fit very good some lines will always need some minor tweaking but overall good quality. John S

I removed my front inner wheel wells it made it a lot easier.

Hard to believe but none of my bolts broke maybe at one time or another in the past they may have been taken out but all of mine came out I was very lucky so I went out and bought a couple lottery tickets

The OPGI ones are fine but the difference I noticed between them and in line tube beside having the GM numbers on them is the OPGI brand for lower part of the bushing not the one between the frame of the body but the lower one would not compress and look as good as the ones from in line tube. Just my opinion I replaced my bushings and I liked the in-line tube ones better. John S

You can get the correct looking bolts from in-line tube or as I call them their sister or brother company motor city muscle cars can find them on eBay

Thanks for all the help. I have the softer organic brake pads. But I think the rotors definitely could be an issue. That’s an interesting thought about the master cylinder, I didn’t think about that. I’m not that fussy about having original rotors, I may try slotted and drilled rotors. Also I may be expecting too much thanks again. John S

I think the pedal feels harder with the new booster, even though it is working properly. The only thing that is different since the rebuild is the banjo bolts. The old ones had a 5/8 hex head while the ones I replaced were 7/16 head flange style bolt. Only difference between the two is the new one is 1/8 inch shorter Other than that, identical. John S

I’ve got the second master cylinder you’re showing After 42 years as a mechanic that is the first thing I always think of when I have a problem when parts have been replaced. The first question I ask is what has changed and how and I usually go from there. It’s been seven years since I bought the car can’t remember exactly how well it stopped although it was not good. A coworker of mine before I retired had a 1970 impala and he had the same problem I believe he went to an aftermarket booster master cylinder and braking system and he tells me everything is fine

I would like some advice I have asked this question before but I hope I can get an answer on my brake issue. First here is what I have done. Every brake line has been replaced even though the rubber flex lines all three of them were only two years old I replaced them again. Front calipers have been rebuilt rear wheel cylinders are new distribution block cleaned and works properly I tested it by simulating a line break And the brake light functions properly as stated in the factory manual. Master cylinder has been replaced, power brake booster has been replaced, Along with the check valve numerous times. I have 20 inches of vacuum at idle so I do not believe that is the issue. Also the new power booster operates properly after testing it. I also took great care to check double check and triple check that the pushrod from the booster to the master cylinder was the correct length so it was not partially pushing on the master cylinder. The vehicle has been pressure bled, and also manually bled. It was bled properly I did have the hold off valve at the master cylinder pushed in while bleeding and bled it exactly as the factory manual stated. Right now the brakes again feel like drum brakes with no power assist. When you hit the brakes hard it will not lock up it will gradually come to a stop and it feels like brake fade.After talking with a few people who have tried different braking systems a suggestion was made to me to try something from a company called stop tech. New rotors and brake pads a person who did this to his vehicle said it made a big difference. I do not know if my rotors are bad can they be work hardened after all these years I don’t know, any advice would be appreciated. But as I stated everything has been replaced. Thanks for any help you can give me. John S

I tried replacing mine with one from Inline Tube. It did not work the brake light was on all the time and the machining was bad. I cleaned my old on to the best of my ability and it works. I tested it by loosening a bleed screw and hit the brakes hard to simulate a line break and the brake light came on. I used a coat hanger and put it in where the rear brake line attached and pushed it in and let the spring pressure push back.It moved freely I re-installed and has worked fine.