Droff

Any Ford 9" users and is it doable without a ton of money? http://joplin.craigslist.org/pts/4867005853.html

68 - 72. Does that include Chevelle's on that list? Thanks Sam.

Resurrecting my post... Out side of 70-72 Monte's and Chevelle's (maybe?), what rear ends would fit under my '70 in order to run 3.XX gears? Any Chevy's from the 80's or 90's? Thanks.

Thanks for the link Dennis, I'd already looked it over, along with you suspension guide, all have been a big help. I have yet to verify everything is in working condition but it's all moveable at this point, nothing is stuck. I've got one side cleaned and ready to get back together - after lubed/painted. I didn't have to beat on the drum too much so I don't think I did any damage to it but it does appear to have a decent groove in it so a replacement is probably a better idea overall. I'm hoping the driver side looks as good. The booster and master cylinder should arrive today, they're matched together as a unit so I don't think I'll have an issue with assembly/installation. The bad news is now we're in the low 30's with 20-30 mph winds and my work area is my driveway....

Any specific lube?

Well if things look like they're decent I can just clean it up real good and go from there, NOT spending more money than I need to won't be disappointing. I need to change the booster and master cylinder so I thought I should look into the rear brakes as well.

I agree, lots of good info to keep in mind while I'm doing this. I had to use a hammer and cold chisel to loosen up the drum and get it off, deadblow hammer helped as well. It went quicker than expected though.

It may be a dumb question, but how is the best way to make sure the parking brake is working correctly? Just a few minutes ago I got one of the drums banged off the car, lots of rust and it doesn't look like anything has been to the rear at all.

I was looking at a brake drum kit from Autozone and there are two, one is an all in one kit and the other is a self adjusting kit. Which kit would I need? All In One - http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-drum-all-in-one-kit-rear/chevrolet/monte-carlo/1970/8-cylinders-5-7l-4bl-ohv Self Adjusting - http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-drum-self-adjusting-kit-rear/chevrolet/monte-carlo/1970/8-cylinders-5-7l-4bl-ohv Thanks

I've not worked on drum brakes before so unsure on what needs to be done. The rear is an unknown at the moment, just figured since I did the front and will be doing a booster and master cylinder replacement, I might as well tackle the drums. Is it typical to replace the wheel cylinders or inspect first and then decide? I'm going with the assumption right now that they are the originals. I hadn't considered replacing the drums themselves but that's a possibility too. I haven't tore into anything yet, just thinking about it, so any suggestions are appreciated. I've done several searches and found some info as well. Thanks.

Here's a few pics of my install.

I've got either the 2 or 3 row, didn't have any issues with the shroud top to bottom, it was side to side as the Champion is a good bit wider than the shroud. Not much help to you tho.....

I went with the battery terminal pads, two on each side. It looks all Christmas-y now, red and green pads on each side.

Thanks

I've been working on installing a front suspension kit, just getting to the part where it all goes back together. I installed the sway bar, tightened but didn't torque the bushing bolts and then looked at the sway bar connectors on the lower A-arm. Now the connectors aren't torqued down at all and not really tight but the connector bolt head is pretty much touching the upper ball joint nut on the upper A-arm. Am I to assume this won't be an issue once I get the sway bar connector tightened correctly - as in, not touching each other? Thanks.

Would the round felt pads used on battery terminals work?

I didn't buy a new centerlink/draglink, but pretty much every new one I see online has the bushings with it. The one already on the car looks fairly new, don't know if it's the original or not. How do I know if it needs replaced?

I've rebuilt my front end, replacing what was needed but I can't find the felt bushings that go between the center link and the pitman/idler arms. The originals were just too bad to re-use. Anyone know of a source or a suitable sub? Thanks.

Thanks for the input guys. I know I need more than a couple bolts as well so I looked around some more and found a couple front end bolt kits. I'm not sure I'll use all the pieces but it may save some frustration in the long run. I plan on calling Konik's at some point for the metal inner fender wells. Bolt Kit #1 Bolt Kit #2

I need to replace my inner fender wells, (lots of broken plastic), as well as several of the u-nuts that were either rusted too bad or missing. I found a couple sites for these but they have different sizes. Is this info listed anywhere? I can't find specifics in either manual I have. If not listed, would anyone know which size or just a general size clip and go with it. I'm not doing an original resto. I'm also leaning toward steel inner fender wells and not plastic. Here's a couple links to the nuts and clips. East Coast Bolts Grainger Thanks.

Thanks for the info. I've found a couple different clear coats at local parts stores. VHT engine enamel, Rustoleum clear enamel and clear lacquer, all gloss. Which would be better, enamel or lacquer? Also saw some Dupli-Color Rust Fix, which looked like an inhibitor. I'm not adverse to powder coating, it's just a cost factor and accessibility factor that I have to consider and a rattle can is about the easiest, least expensive way for me to go. I'm unsure whether this will be a car I keep forever or not but I'm not doing what I would call a restoration although it may end up that way. Thanks!

I'm rebuilding my front end suspension with stock replacement parts and also just cleaning up the parts I'm not swapping out. So far, most of the used parts are looking pretty good and I'd like to keep them as they are, no painted look. Other parts I plan on painting black or cast or something to that effect. The frame and A-Arms will be scraped and painted, not sure on Zero Rust or POR15 or Rustoleum yet. Could I get some recommendations on a clear coat to use on the parts I'm not covering with a color, leaning toward a rattle can as I have no paint facilities? Thanks.

How hard was the '04 console install? I don't have a console now but want to go from a column shifter to one on the floor and from appearance, that doesn't look too bad. Thanks.

Andreas, Are you happy with the insert? Where did you find it? Thanks.

Thanks for the heads up.