Droff

I have a '70 Monte with not original buckets, bench seat is stock but I want to keep the buckets and get them recovered. I was told they aren't Monte Carlo buckets but are 1970 buckets, so I don't really know what I have. I need to know what I have before I order any covers, does anyone have any good input on what these may be out of? Thanks. Drew

The rear lower control arm bushing on my '70 is oval, just checked. Small block too.

I'll look into the roof mount but I can see where it was attached on the windshield. Interesting.

The whole thing has just come off my windshield, I have the metal piece the mirror slides into laying in a cup holder. Is there a particular adhesive that works best to re-attach the mirror bracket? Thanks.

I've been seeing references to either an oval or round control arm bushing, thus different kits. Is this something I just need to look at on te car to determine, or does something else identify which type I have, like year or build? Also, any shock recommendations? I'm just going stock on the car for the most part but don't typically buy too many shocks.. Thanks.

Based on this information, I'd say use the rear holes used for the bench seat to get the alignment for the front holes and where to install the brackets being used for the bucket seats. Am I looking at this correctly? Thanks.

Thanks for the steering wheel info guys, I know what I have isn't original and there are a ton of them out there. This helps narrow things down quite a bit.

David, DOH! I should have been able to make that connection but I guess it went right by me. Would I be able to put 3.XX gears in a 2 series carrier?

A little off the topic but where could I get that type of steering wheel? The one I currently have is just not very good.... Thanks.

Does this statement hold true for a '70 Monte? "A 2 series carrier is a car that came with 3.08s or lower from the factory (i.e. all of your 2.73 cars). A 3 series carrier is a car that came with 3.23s or higher." My assumption is that I have the stock 12 bolt with 2.73 gears and at some point I may want to get lower gears, something shy of 3.73. I've seen references to 2 series and 3 series, but wasn't sure how or what determined the designation.

Yea, I wouldn't have thought that was an option, good info. I'm assuming if I can get the plugs out, it's no big deal getting them back in?

Is one way any better than the other? I just want to get as much crap out of there as I can before I install the new radiator. I figured I'd start the car, turn on the heater and then turn on the hose, catch it coming out the other side.

Sounds like the water pump pulls from the bottom of the radiator. Thanks for the help. I've pulled out the t-stat and have a new radiator on the way, so I thought I'd flush the system with the garden hose. Just wanted to ensure I was running the water in the right direction.

I ordered a Champion radiator, should have it by the weekend. It may be a knucklehead question but I would like to know the direction of the coolant flow, which I can't seem to find the answer to yet. Does the coolant flow from the top of the rad into the intake manifold or from the bottom of the rad into the water pump? Thanks.

I'm glad I did a quick search. My '70 radiator was leaking so I took it to a radiator shop to get it checked out. After he checked it out, he said he couldn't fix it, too old and in too bad of condition. His recommendation was a plastic/aluminum radiator as a replacement, he runs them in his dirt track car, says it's lighter, cools better and won't rust. He gave me a price of $240(+ tax), so I thought I'd check into it and ran across this thread. So the Champion radiator just drops right in, nothing has to be changed on the car? The huge original shroud bolts right onto it? Paintable? I'd prefer black. Then there is this one, a little less cash and already black. RockAuto Rad Any opinions other than the Champion is a good one to go with? I'm not looking to keep the car original or all stock so that isn't an issue. Thanks.

Thanks for the link. I searched but may have missed it, seems like these brackets need to be in a certain location, are there specs or anything along those lines where I can get the info on placement? Any suggestions on filling the 4 holes on the floor panels?

I just picked up a '70 with buckets in it but I'd say a bench was stock. The buckets have been bolted down through the floor with the nuts visible underneath. Awesome. Are there brackets that can be used to actually mount buckets to the floor without drilling holes all the way through the floor pan? Thanks.

I'm not too worried about a stock or original look really, just want it looking good is all. I know the POR15 isn't all that inexpensive, like most everything else.

Thanks for the info Dennis. I ran across another front end kit a little cheaper than the OPGI kit but haven't identified if all the parts being supplied are equivalent. I hadn't considered eBay though. I've got an angle grinder, just need to pick up a few wire brushes and should be in business, although it may be small business. There is a TON of grime on the front end parts, that's going to be a bear. I know I don't have the original shocks, but still may replace them. Speaking of painting, POR15 sounds like a rust inhibitor once it is applied, but would getting the crap off the metal, cleaned up and then using a rattle can primer and paint be sufficient, or just a preference? As far as paint, anything typical as in flat, semi-gloss, etc? Enamel paint? I'm just talking frame and under the hood parts here and there. These may be pretty simple questions overall, but I've not really done this type of work before, trying to avoid a few eyerolls. Thanks again.

Pictures are primo Dennis, thanks. That's pretty much what I need to do on the front, just a matter of starting and doing. I did run across this kit online, Front End. Are the prices reasonable for something along these lines? I did just replace the calipers and the flexible brake lines that are mounted to the frame and attach to the calipers. I now have some solid brakes. I plan on new rotors, bearings and pads at some point as well, probably when I work on the overall front end. The rotors are a bit odd, both sides have a pretty decent sized groove right in the middle of the rotor, in the same place and same size, front and back. That has to be a manufactured groove, ever seen that? I haven't. Otherwise, the rotors are decent. As far as stripping parts, I have limited work space and capabilities, what did you use? I think a chemical spray (grease remover/engine cleaner) and wash would be a bit tough to do in my driveway. Thanks for all the info.

Thanks for the links Dennis, that's awesome. I need to do some front end work but have little idea on nomenclature of everything, other than a 'bushing' or a ball joint. You guys have some nice looking rides.

Rob, you're probably right on the reference material. Aaron - Is that a GM manual or something different? Thanks.

I need a 1970 maintenance manual and I'm looking for suggestions on which one to go with, either Haynes or Chilton's? If there is another that is better or more specific, that's fine too. Thanks.