cbolt

I'm getting ready to shift from a column shift to a console, and have everything I need, I think, but don't quite know how the brackets are installed and the cable is routed. Does anyone have pics or just an explaination of how the brackets sit physically in the car and how the cable attaches to the shift lever. Thanks. Jim

So how about being one of those snot-nosed ensigns with a cool car? Nothing wrong with that! Jim

Hey there Middie, I am currently attached to Helicopter Antisubmarine Squadron Seven onboard Naval Air Station, Jacksonville Fl. Let me ask you this, would it be less prone to be vandalized or stolen if you had the cars body work done and the paint on it? Not likely, it would be more prone to be messed with. Most bases, if not ALL bases, have long-term storage lots for people in your predicament. I sure wouldn't "loan" it to my brother, nothing ever good comes from that. If you are anxious to look cool, well think how good it will feel if you wait and do it right, and don't rush it. See? I'm training you already! BTW, here is a quote for you to take with you for your "long haul" career; "Don't worry, be happy. A good CPO will save your *** every time." Jim

Hey Middie, how bad is the body? Is it really gonna kill you to drive it for a bit once you get the mechanical side ready until you can save up money? In my over 20 year naval career, I have never seen the DOD make anyone sell their car when they got to the boat. Surely you aren't afraid of what your officer buddies will say? There is a Lt in my squadron that ownes the biggest pile of rust 70-something caddy you have ever seen, and frequently leaves it in the E-7 and up parking for extended periods of time. We complain, but nobody takes his commission away for driving it. A few of the JO's borrow it from time to time, if they need a beater or a car that will hold 10 people. In other words, keep the car, work on it when you can, drive it while the driving is good, and when you finally get your commission and go to your first duty station, put it in storage while underway and work on it when you are home. Chalk up your ordeal with the mechanic as lessons learned, go get your car, and move on. By the way, are you going to change your screen name when you get commissioned? Jim

Tow that thing a few hundred miles south here to Fla, and between me and Grease, we will get it running for ya! Jim

If you just want brands thrown out there, I fully believe in TCI converters. Had one on an old camaro race car and it took everything we threw at it. Believe it was the 2000 stall model, can't remember what little name they gave it, like streetfighter or whatever..... but it was a TCI product. I don't trust any of the Summit brand stuff, but can't give you a good reason why. Jim

Hey Landshark, I saw on that American Muscle car that Louis Chevrolet was a French race car driver that the company was named after, but not necessarily the founder. Now, ask me who actually founded it, and I have no clue, but if you believe everything you see on TV, that is the story I got. Jim

Priming is the key to the pumps. You should be able to hear it working with the engine off when you push the wash button. If it is making the popping noise, the pump is running but like any fluid pump, it won't work with air when it loses the prime. I think a wearing pump diaphram or loose or degraded hoses will cause the pump to lose it's prime, and make it difficult to use. they sell repair kits for the washer pumps that include a new diaphram and cap for it if your pump is electrically good. I have used them before on other GM products I have owned with no problems. Jim