Rob Peters

I think the only thing you need to remove is the upper dash pad and not the whole panel. the pad is very easy to remove, just be careful of the clips attached to it in the area of the windshield. There are screws along the front of the pad, once they are removed you simply lift slightly on the part where the screws were and pull toward the interior of the car until the clips near the wiindshield release. The clips are mounted on the dash pad and slip into notches in the dash. Rob ------------------ To access my website click on the picture or link below. My Two Girls http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

One of the headlamps in my car is the original headlamp. I was not aware of this until I was at a meet and some guy wanted to buy my headlight off the car. He said the way you can tell an original from a reproduction is if you look at the headlamp real close you can see the Chevy Bowtie in the ridges of the headlamp.... I don't know if he was pulling my leg or not but when I looked at the one headlamp I could see the bowtie.... And they said Chevrolet didn't put the bow tie emblem on our first gen Monte's. I can't answer the package tray except to say if there was not a speaker the package tray was just plain. I am trying to remember but I don't think they originally had two speakers in the rear and if there was a speaker in the rear it was mounted on the passenger side of the tray... don't take that as gospel though. Regarding the jack cover. I don't think it was available in 1970 but I think in 71 it became standard. Rob ------------------ To access my website click on the picture or link below. My Two Girls http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Quote: Originally posted by RCR001: OK....one more idea (Just in case you needed one) Magnet on a string, go fishin.It went in so it will come out... RCR I like the idea of using a magnet but I think it is going to have to be on a flexible shaft so it will snake into the area where the bolt is. The only problem with using a magnet on a string would be getting the magnet down to the bolt if it is way down into the block. Without the magnet on something rigid it will keep sticking to the block and will not free fall down into the block where the bolt may be. Now to encorporate two ideas into one. If you don't have a magnet on a flexible shaft or if you can't find one, you can usually find the gripper fingers with a flexible shaft. You could use the above suggestion of a magnet on a string but use the flexible shaft gripper fingers to fish the magnet down into the block and then use the string to pull it out. What a great group we have here with all these suggestions. I also agree with the suggestion that you don't want to pull the engine just for this but I think it was Fred who suggested to turn the car over and shake that sucker out and I like that suggestion. Rob ------------------ To access my website click on the picture or link below. My Two Girls http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Dave, Thanks for the information on this. The question on how to do this and what people use has come up in the past. I'm not sure if the one you mention was suggested in the past. Thanks again Rob ------------------ To access my website click on the picture or link below. My Two Girls http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

There is no documented proof that any first gen monte had these cowl grills. some may have been installed by dealers or by owners. I also put them on my car to keep garbage from falling down into these holes and I also like how they dress up that area under the hood. Rob ------------------ To access my website click on the picture or link below. My Two Girls http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Quote: Originally posted by iann128: Yeah just try getting into it with a 2 jet ski trailer next to it. I have to move them to the side to get into the car. It is sleeping for a little while while I decide weather we are going to sell it or not.. Ian Ian, Say it isn't so... I can't believe you are thinking about selling that beautiful car. I hope I read your post wrong. If you do I am sure you will make sure it has a good home. I think if you sell it you will eventually regret it and I know it is a tough decision to make. Keep us posted Rob ------------------ To access my website click on the picture or link below. My Two Girls http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

I got mine from Jim at www.musclecarsonly.com Rob Peters ------------------ To access my website click on the picture or link below. My Two Girls http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Quote: Originally posted by George Lines: I have been re-assembling my Monte after that paint job. I was testing the lights even before installing them. I had the tail lights working even before inserting them into the extensions, therefore they have a ground wire coming from the socket to somewhere. The front park lightes were different and I had to touch the bulb socket to the car before they worked. The side marker sockets are mounted in plastic, so they have to have a wire going to ground somewhere. Also the park and turn/brake use different filaments in the same bulb. That means they are using different circuits. George, You are correct that if the socket is mounted in plastic there would need to be two wires a ground wire and positive or supply wire. You are correct that the parking lights and brake/turn signal use different filaments in the same bulb so there would be two wires going to them, one for the parking light and one for the brake/turn but both of these filaments would use the same ground which would be the base of the lamp. Since I think these bases are also mounted into plastic there would have to be a wire running from the base of these sockets to a chassis ground. I think the point I was trying to make above is this. Since the parking lights and the brake/turn signals use the same bulb and different fialments they are using the same ground which is the base of the lamp and since the brake and turn signals are working but the parking lights are not it can not be a bad ground in this case. I work with DC circuits on a daily basis and have wired enough trailer hitches and worked on numerous wiring problems on rear lamps that I would almost guarantee that this problem is not a bad ground. I know a bad ground is frequently the cause of lamps not working but I don't think this is true in this case. Rob ------------------ To access my website click on the picture or link below. My Two Girls http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Quote: Originally posted by George Lines: It is quite possible that the turn signals and parking lights use a different ground because they are different systems. If you have turn signals then you probably have brake lights. George, The base of the lamp is the ground and since the parking lights, brake light and turn signal all use the same bulb, they are not using seperate grounds. Wallaby makes a good point about the side marker lights. You didn't state if the side marker lights were working and since they come on when the head lights and parking lights come on, they should also be on. Your problem is on the positive (+) side or also known as the supply side of the circit and not the negative (-) or ground side. The reason I say this is because the negative side of the circuit is the chassis ground. The chassis ground comes from the negative side of the battery connecting to the chassis and the metal of the body. This makes every metal part of the body, engine and chassis a ground or negative (-) return to the battery. Think of a DC circuit as a circle. To complete the circle, or circuit, the voltage must make it all the way around the circle to work. Now let's put a battery into the circle. At the start of the circle you connect up to the positive terminal of the battery. Now if you open the circle and you connect the bottom button of the light bulb to the line from the line from the positive terminal and the base of the lamp to the other open side of the circle and then complete the circle by connecting to the negative side of the battery, the light will come on because you have completed the circle. Now if you open that circle at any point (by having a fuse blow), you now you have broken the circle and the light won't work. Now back to Wallaby's suggestion of turning on the headlights or parking lights and checking for voltage on both sides of the fuse. This is what you need to do. If you don't have voltage on either side of the fuse it could be in the headlight switch or where the positive voltage comes to the headlight switch. If you have voltage on one side of the fuse but not on the other it is a bad fuse. If you have voltage on both sides of the fuse then the open part of the circuit will have to be found by tracing where the wire comes from the fuse box and splits to all the lights. I hope I have not confused you by this explination but I tried to make it as simple as possible. Wiring problems can be a challenge even if you have a diagram and know what you are doing so do what you can from our suggestions and if you can't find the problem you may need to get some help. Rob ------------------ To access my website click on the picture or link below. My Two Girls http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

I would have thought ground too except the brake lights and the turn signals work. Since the base of the lamp gets the ground from the lamp socket sides and the brake and the turn signals are working then it can not be the ground. As I stated before, I would first check the fuse for the parking lights and start checking the wiring from there if the fuse is good. Rob

The turn signal and brake lights use the same filament in the light bulbs. If you look at the bulbs you will see a double filament in each bulb. By the same token, if I am not mistaken, the tail lights and tag light all come back on the same wire and then are split to each light. I am not sure if the tail lights are on a seperate fuse than the front parking lights but this is the first thing I would check. If all fuses are good you will need to start tracing the wiring to find the problem. Rob ------------------ To access my website click on the picture or link below. My Two Girls http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Spray some PB Blaster on the screw heads and from the rear side. If you can get to the rear of the screws, wire brush them and respray again. Do this for about a week and then try again. If this doesn't work, remove the whole assembly, use a drill bit and drill off the HEAD of the screw only and the lens should come off so you can get a pair of vice grips on the screw and attempt to remove the rest of the screw. If this doesn't work, you can drill it out and then retap the holes. If you have to do this, be very careful drilling them out. Rob ------------------ To access my website click on the picture or link below. My Two Girls http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

I thought this would be a good one to bring back to the top. Good information on wiring harness. Rob ------------------ http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte My Two Girls Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Just bringing this to the top, good information on original style battery. Rob

I am not sure if the Restoration Package is still available from GM. When you call, have your VIN available in case they ask for it. The restoration package is only YEAR specific and not individual VIN number specific. The only reason they may ask for your VIN is to verify you infact may have a car and they can identify the year by the VIN. You can reach them by call ing 1-800-222-1020. Rob ------------------ http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte My Two Girls Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

I would not only ask for my money back but I would also demand they pay for any damages they created. If the refuse to comply with this request, I would then talk to a lawyer and have the lawyer send them a letter threating legal action. I have used the BBB one time and came out of the experience knowing I would never go to them again. Don't get me wrong, in some areas the BBB may be a good thing. I will describe my experience after I finish with the rest of your question I have never seen the aluminum inner fender wells, only plastic and metal. Now back to the BBB and my experience. I worked with them for 3 months attempting to get an issue resolved and after the 3 months was up I had nothing to show for all my work and patience. With the BBB, they are acting as a middle man for negotiations. First of all they told me if the party I want to persue for the problem is not a member of the BBB they told me up front they can not have any influence with the party. Second, since the party you are going after is a paying member of the BBB the BBB doesn't want lose them as a paying member. If after the period of time is up in the negotiations, if the party you are persuing has negotiated in "good faith" the the issue is considered RESOLVED. Bottom line is if you had a bad experience with them I would not go back to them for more work. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

The Chrome with I think the brushed look finish is the custom belt option. I also have them on my car. I am not sure but with the standard belt, the belt material may not have matched the interior color where with the custom belts they do. Again, I don't know if the standard belts were just black or if they in fact were color coordinated to the interior. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

The color of these depended on the interior color. I am not around my car right now but I think they were painted the same color as the steering column. I would not swear to it though. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

JohnnyB, You have come to the right place for advice, unfortunately, I can't help you with this question but numerous members who have SS's will be able to help you out. I would think if you measured the height of the rear end and then loaded the trunk down with some weight(have a few of your buddies jump in) and then take another measurement it should raise back up to the unloaded level. If I am not mistaken the car may need to be running for the system to work. Now to the important stuff, I would like to welcome you to the First Generation Monte Carlo web site. We also have a club which you are invited to join. You don't need to be a member to participate in the board but to recieve the window decal with our logo and the monthly newsletter you must join. There is a great group here with answers to most all of your questions. Very few questions have gone unanswered here. Tell us a little more about your car, color, options, condition of interior and body etc. etc. Also where you are from,(what state) we may have members in your area. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Quote: Originally posted by gene: my windshield was replaced about 2 years ago,my wiper blade is not rubbing but the arm is right were the hinged part is my the spring. i looked again and it appeared that the knurled nut looked cocked on the shaft i ordered a nut removal tool from paddock today hoping that reseat that nut will fix my problem thanks gene This is the exact place mine rubs, right where it attaches to the transmission assy and right where the arm is hinged. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Gene, My wiper arm also rubs my hood in the same place and nothing I have done has corrected this. I have even shimmed the unit which comes up through the mount. I shimmed it downward from the underside to drop it lower and the arm still rubs under the hood. I have also changed my entire transmission assy for the wipers because the pin for the articulating arm for the drivers side broke off and if I am not mistaken you must replace the entire assembly. I think at one point my windshield was replaced and I am thinking that when they installed the new windshield they may have put too much calking on it and it may stick out a little farther than it should and this may be why the wiper arm is rubbing the hood but I don't know for sure. I asked this question about the arm rubbing the hood and nobody could come up with an explination. All the hood and fender alignments look good so the hood doesn't appear to be back too far. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

I have both the Haynes and the Chiltons books and would not like to do without either of them. There are things in each one that are not in the other. I have the same Haynes book you show in your picture but my Chiltons book is more year specific plus it is about four inches thick and hard back. They both have their advantages. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Mike, I am in your area this week if you would like to meet up. I will be in Barstow tomorrow night and El Segundo on Thrusday afternoon and evening. Let me know. Rob

My 70 started doing this after I installed a new solid state voltage regulator. I assumed it has something to do with the voltage regulator being solid state and when I posted here, I had responses indicating to me that it more than likely was because of that. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Rod, If you decide to drill the holes, I have a copy of a template I could mail to you which would give the exact location to drill the holes. I only have a template for the rear. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here