Traveler

That’s what is great about this club, concise advice, thanks J

I lucked out and found a 12 bolt on craigslist. It’s out of a 1970 Chevelle with an axel code of CCW 09*5B, and a casting #3859038MF. If my research is correct it originally had a ratio of 373 and was an open rear. The seller told me he thought it was a 331 posi unit. Upon opening the rear it has Richmond gears and after counting the teeth it was a 354.54 ratio or as Richmond confirmed 355, and is a posi unit. After reading multiple threads here I’m a little confused, some say that the upper left control arm will have to be changed, others say it will work fine. Has anyone done this type of exchange and did or didn’t they have an issue with the control arms? Thanks J

If I had any indecision Steve G you helped me decide against them, thanks and may you have a happy and prosperous new years J

Good morning all, Since I have to replace the upper ball joints and springs in my 71 MC I have been investigating tubular control arms. There is a set for $219 on eBay. Has anyone used these and if so what was your experience? I have two concerns, the first is “you get what you pay for”, considering that they are half the price of brand names, are they junk or OK?, The second is the rule of unintended consequences: when considering that the lowers have a 2” drop pocket, it seems to my uneducated mind on this subject that this is a significant change in the geometry that could cause binding or sever angles, am I correct? If so is it something that can be overcome and how would I correct the problems it may cause? 1” could be OK but I’m not sure if a 2” drop is something reasonable. I like the idea of better caster and camber angles as what I read suggest the dancy nature of the steering.could be addressed. With this change I plan on going with QA1 or Viking (depending on the best deal I can make) coil over shocks, and I think these shocks have enough adjustment to compensate for the ride height, but does moving the shock down so low cause other issues? Thank you in advance for your replies.

Thanks for the reply, a mind is a terrible thing to waste, lol. I bought one and never installed it. This may be the problem.. I hope you have a blessed thanksgiving. J

I recently bought a 71 MC, with 69000 miles a 350 2 barrel,...The car surges at highway speeds, and was missing badly in the mid to upper rpm range. First thing I did was plugs, wires, cap, rotor reset timing and dwell ( found it way off 4* atdc and 12* dwell). I didn’t replace the points because I planned to and did installed the Fast XR-i pointless ignition and a new PS2 coil (coil looked to be stock). Part of the reason for the change was that I wondered if I was losing spark in the mid to upper rpm range causing an intermittent miss. When I examined the plugs #2 cylinder showed signs of oil migration so I pulled the springs on #2 and the valve stems seals were gone, there was very little lateral valve stem movement and about 4% blow by, put new seals on, reassembled. Engine holds 20” of vacuum at idle, and starts and idles fine, drops to about 14” at full throttle and then jumps back up to 20” when throttle plate closes. I have looked for a vacuum leak and found none, any suggestions.

The 15 minute job of converting to pointless ignition is true if the distributor is on the bench, took me just a little longer, let’s says 2-3 hours, I chose the Fast XR-i system over the others available due to ease of installation, some could have required you to shim the distributor which requires removal. If you go to do this install in the car I suggest that you mount the module to the plate then install the plate to the location of the old points, as the advance counter weights are in the way and the small (#6) screw is difficult to align. Attach two wires, reset the timing and idle and your done. Got a new PS2 coil and the fast module off of amazon for $62.09.

Great looking work, it seems there are a few who still take pride in their workmanship, good job!

I had a productive day, I removed the dash pad and replaced all the dash bulbs with led’s, turns out only a few of the bulbs were bad, the holders were corroded. Fixed the radio, speaker ground missing, replaced the right front turn signal bulb, depending on the rain I have more planned for today, #2 valve stem seals, tomorrow or Monday Fast XR-I. Still on the list; get the bench seat to move again, fuel level sending unit, adjust the hood and drivers window, then decide on; upper, lower control arms, front springs, shocks, 1 wire alternator, heads, (after the valve seals succeed or fail) intake, gas tank, radio, Got to have goals in life,lol. J