monte0

Weird but yea, guess your right. I'm still going to contact UMI about this to see if maybe this set is made backwards by mistake. I checked a few other competitors sites and they are all reverse of what mine are..lol

If you look at mine from UMI the polys are towards the frame side. Even on UMI's site that's the way they show.

No I don't have the roto-joints on both ends, only on the axle side. Poly joints are on the frame side. If you look at the link you posted of the Currectac lowers, the poly bushings are on the frame side too. I also have talked to mark he told me axle side is where to have the rot-joints and we also discussed what to do correctly so I can kinda have the best of both worlds for racing and street use.

Here's the new lower control arms, UMI half roto-joint/half poly. And yes I know I'm mixing sets up having Hotchiks on the top. I did keep it consistent though, I bought roto-joints for the axle housing so all the joints on the axle itself are roto and frame side is poly.

Good info, that does help

The next addition just came in the mail today. UMI lower rear tubular arms with half roto-joint/half poly joints.

Well the holes are centered enough to put the bolts through, just not perfectly centered in holes. I'm going to have to get the rear axle in before I try to move the car anymore since it's only sitting on jack stands. Every time I try to move the car it want's to slide off the jacks

Ok, frames back on all the way. I do have a question though. The body seems to be a little back on the frame (not perfectly centered in the bolt holes) I'm guessing it would be critical but figured I'd ask if it really is since it's a pain moving it on jack stands

yes I second that, I had a 2100 stall with 3.25 rear gears with my 454 and I did a 12.5@109 solid every time.

I'm not concerned about the weight of the sway bars but more about the track use.

Nice, going to have to add it to my wish list. First the car has to drive .. lol

Also, should I stick with a smaller front sway bar and larger rear for some drag racing? Or should I go large in rear and front?

Looks good, did you make it yourself?

Good, I'm ready to buy some lower rears right now. Fronts are going to be on hold for now till I have a little extra. Here's the new upper arms I just picked up. Got them "used" but they look like they never were used ever.

Now to find some cheap lowers:) Might have to buy those new...

Ok, got lucky last night and ran across a very nice deal on open box(new but never were installed) hotchkis double adjustable upper rear control arms. Got them for $150 shipped to my door which is cheaper then the knock off ebay ones.

Any updates on this? wouldn't mind getting one

Ok, thanks. You don't have any issue's with rain and such with the roto-joints?

I'm currently looking at UMI rear lower control arms but had a question. What the difference between the UMI boxed and tubular lower rear control arms? They both have sway mounts built in. One looks stronger then the other but that's all I can see. (plus maybe less weight) http://umiperformance.com/catalog/index....;products_id=34 http://umiperformance.com/catalog/index....;products_id=35

It better! I'm not doing that again lol

lol

Looks great! So you put the holes in so the hood would stay up?

Nice run!

Same here too..lol

Yea, I'm trying to keep that stance. What I used to have on the car was stock 1970 coil springs (surprisingly in good shape still!)in rear and 1" hotchkis lowering springs up front.