Crom Cruach

Ok so I have no excuse for not removing them is what you’re saying 😂

Can anyone tell me how to remove the door handles? Getting ready for paint and much as I don’t want to remove them I might regret it later. Also is it possible to open the door when they are off? spear wasn’t easy to remove either

done, cheers for the instructions my little helper

Holy smoke what a beauty, thanks for setting the bar so high! I’ve gone from this: to this: with fibreglass and epoxy primer. Getting rid of all the rust first , then epoxy primer, high-build primer, then paint, insect layer, clear, ask I missing anything?

Genius. I can get those big dust sheets they sell for painting your house. Shame my compressor is only 7 gallons! I guess it will just take a little longer with a little lvlp spray gun. I’m not in a rush. How did your Camaro turn out?

Well I’m defo not taking the doors off, and that’s good news if a body shop can get it painted with the trunk lid on. I think I can get a good coat on the hood edges with the hood open, then close it to finish the job with 2 or 3 coats. Open again for clear and rinse & repeat. My main fear is bugs & spiders falling off the shed roof while the clear is flashing 🕷️

yeah I’ll go after front and rear bumpers I reckon. Debating taking off the hood and trunk lids too. What you guys think?

The end cap is this area Tom?

How on earth do you remove the side pieces of the rear molding on a ‘72? Getting the car ready for diy paint

€800 ($880) to fit the headers. Prob should have tried to fit them myself. Classic cars are a money pit! (Well definitely when you have to ships parts across the pond)

I also have the 7042202 quadrajet 4MV 1972. They are extremely lean from the factory, and ethanol makes it run leaner. On advice from Cliff Ruggles I changed the jets from 74 to 76, and the rods from 45B to 44B. Also important to change the accelerator pump to an ethanol-proof one.

stop, it’s been with my mechanic for two days, what is he doing with it? it’s gonna be a hefty bill anyway 😮

Doug’s D308 headers being installed in the 350. Looks like the starter is a tight fit. I wish I’d gone for a mini when I replaced the clapped out original. I have the remote solenoid so that might keep it cool, providing the battery + cable isn’t getting fried.

Cheers Tom, what should be in it? Not just the filter at the bottom surely?

Replacing the charcoal canister filter and loads of black granules came flying out, is this the charcoal that absorbs nasties? I lost maybe an egg cup of the stuff, do I need to replace it? Or did I just find the mouse poo bonanza?

I’d love to take a closer look at the numbers, and see if it was taken care of or abused. Then take her out for a rip!

Apparently the original engine was a 305, I wonder if it got the chassis upgrades to handle the bigger engine. Really nice car though with the blood red interior. Very tempting!

I found a mechanic in Dublin who knows his way around American muscle, so I was poking around his storage room and found this little beauty hiding under there! Very much like firebirds esp 2nd gen. One of the few I think might be better than 1st gen. Possibly same for GTO’s

Cheers Sammy, I thought it might be a simple thing, a specific head matched to a certain engine, but I can’t find any info on it. Might have to order gaskets and crack them valve covers open!

Ok I know I should just pop off the valve covers and look, but I don’t have a gasket set handy! So does anyone know what heads are in a ‘72 350 4bbl? some internet detectoring says 487 heads, but is there a way to know without cracking it open? Engine tag V0730CKD 12B500574 Flint, Michigan, July 30, 350 ci 4-barrel with TH 350 trans J: 350-4bbl L48 175hp 2: 1972

OK I could buy a spare 'fuel pump to carb' steel line and customize it, but the open end won't be barbed to hold the hose properly, so I think plan A is to get an inverted flare fitting. Check out this, it looks like it would fit both carb and pump, but do I need a section of double flared line to go inside, and act as a kind of washer? Brass Straight Tube Fitting, 3/8" Hose x 5/8"-18 Male Inverted Flare Swivel Straight Brass https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BH74JOC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 or this: Edelmann 821660 Inverted Flare to Hose Barb, Straight, Brass, Natural, 5/8-18 in.

I don’t know if I want to cut the original line. Feels a bit permanent! I think it’s the ethanol making the fuel boil, but also the line is so close to the block it’s actually touching at one point. Not ideal (see photo). Ok research I think it’s actually 7/8 inch x 20 fuel inlet till 1971, 1 inch after 72. https://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumber.asp?Number=7042202

Thanks Steve. What I’m really after is the thread size & pitch of the fuel pump and carb - I need a connector to replace the metal fuel line

trying to fix suspected vapor lock. I want to fit a 3 way filter close to the quadrajet, so I have to bypass the metal fuel line. Also fitting a small inline fuel pressure gauge. I'm confused trying to figure out the various fittings, so many options! Can anyone confirm the thread size for the fuel pump and carb inlets? I think fuel pump inlet is 7/8 inch x20 threads female and the quadrajet fuel inlet is 5/8 inch x18 threads female is this correct? I have to order these parts from the States, so I can't just bring the metal line down to my local motor factors! Thanks