NavyCPO

Really nice Cars! Daaang, I got a long way to go!!!!! Beautiful cars!

Sorry for the delay, got real busy for a while. Yes it was a factory replacement A6 from Four Seasons. I called Four Seasons again and again he explained to me that I only need to add the oil to the compressor. The reason is that the compressor is the only thing in the system that requires oil. And this compressor has a built in SUMP to store the oil in. There is a fill/drain plug on the side of the compressor and there is a hump on the belly of the compressor that is the sump for the oil. On other systems that do not have compressors with their own sumps, then YES you would add oil to each of the components or into the system lines itself because those systems use the refrigerant to carry the oil through the compressors, but these type compressors do not operate that way and maintain their own oil sump. I noticed also in the service manual, where it talks about adding the 3 oz and 1 oz and 1 oz etc for other components being replaced, it is all in that section for "Checking Compressor Oil Charge", it's referring to (the way I read it in context) if you change those other components then you add that additional oil to the compressor itself, not the individual components themselves. That whole paragraph is talking about adding oil to the compressor. The total oil charge to the A6 Stock compressor should be 11 oz. The other components don't require oil, only the compressor, so, with the sump, as long as I have 11 oz in the system that should be plenty of oil even if there is some floating through the lines with the refrigerant, althought it's not required. That's the way it was explained to me and to me that makes sense. Thank you very much for the r12 to r134a conversion chart that is very helpful!!!!!!

When I look at my car, it looks to me like the front end sits pretty low and pretty low over the tires like the springs are seriously worn. Today I noticed that it looks like the passenger front is a bit lower than the drivers side and the back seems like the drivers side is a little lower than the passenger side. I put new airi shocks on the back and they raised up the rear a bit and I haven't checked to see if it helped level the back up yet, I think it did some. But being a SBC Car is it common for these cars to sit so low in the front end? And is it common to have to replace the springs on these old girls? Mine is a 70 so she's 53 years old now. Or could it just be me? Also if I take measurements and she is sitting lower on the passenger side, what are ya'll's (that's a southern word) thoughts on using some of those spring spacers to level her up/give her some support until I could get some new replacement springs? Should I order BBC springs or stick with the SBC springs and just freshen them up. GO!!!

Well I got the Monte back into driveable status, but had to redo the Right Rear Brake Line as it developed a leak. Flaring tool was giving me fits when I did it the first time and it seemed to hold but I spotted a leak the other day so had to redo that. Good to go now. Still haven't gotten my speedometer working yet. I thought the secondary cable to the transmission was broken but it wasn't. Both ends do look like they have been broken off at the tips, but the cable itself is not broken and it appears that there is enough tip on both ends to engage. I wish I had a LIFT so I could see better into the transmission but I don't. (YET) Now I am thinking that it may be the RED gear inside the transmission is either worn out or not turning the white nylon gear. The white nylon gear that goes to the end of the cable is in tack and seems to have all good teeth on it and should be turning the cable. NAPA has a new cable for like $15 that I think I will try just to make sure that they are going into the components far enough to engage and it that doesn't fix it, it's got to be in the tailshaft of the tranny. I really need to get it on a lift for that as my jacks just don't get the car up high enough for me to be able to maneuver around much under it. If I have to replace the plastic gear in the tranny (TH350 Red Gear) anybody know where I could get one? I'm in BFE and I really don't have a good Transmission Supply house near me. Went to get my A/C serviced today but guys backed up for 4 weeks. However, he told me to bring it back next Friday and he'd squeeze me in. I looked up the specs on the A/C system in the service manual and it says 3 lbs 12 oz (3.75 lbs) of R-12 and 11 Oz of Refrigerant Oil. I am assuming that you put the same amount of R-134A as you would R-12 and the compressor came prefilled with 3 oz of Pag150 oil so should only need to add another 8 oz. of PAG150. That sound right to you guys?

Yep, you're right Rob, it is actually in parallel. My bad.

As Dennis said in his response to me, You could just buy the LONG speedometer cable and bypass it that way, but I planned on getting a replacement cruise control module and thought the eliminator would get me going. But my second cable must be bad too. Probably snapped because of the sticky CC unit. So now I have to buy that cable too and hope that the gears are ok or I may have to replace them too. Kind of trouble shooting as I go. Not the best way, but I'm jumping from thing to thing a bit now, so not so methodical like I would normally be. Anyway, here's the link to the cruise control eliminator https://www.ebay.com/itm/252622178186?hash=item3ad174878a:g:ANAAAOSwMVdYHg~I&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0GFrUwlTag6c6kMRi8BBBjjN8Y9ouot7wd2NkFiuMURrEC%2B9os0PM%2F8O1tCUOk%2FMw9iZtFgOYAYAjdOMZEKoY1MhxHvGSRNVPiCZG4I6uVgMf5troTjYJxDf1FJsI318IKMI%2F9C0db5%2BwDIj%2FbF%2BNdJ1Iq2pI6zc23SjxWWwIMWcaF7VGcL3%2FlUhTYW4u84bycAFYyVJA2yTeukyv%2FLRjF%2BF%2BqzqAC4%2F5cmfOpRZkn3ds%2F4mC6I8XcxniTrTcRg9fFXQ10N6HKiGScjSNKTh21A%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5aYwfGRYg And here is the Speedometer Cables Rock Auto lists, I guess you could get one of the 80" as if the car didn't have cruise control and use one of those, there is a 100" at the bottom????? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1970,monte+carlo,5.7l+350cid+v8,1055584,interior,speedometer+cable,1440

Well, I was hoping that the cruise control unit was the problem and that the Eliminator would get me going but it didn't. So now I need the speedometer cable from the unit to the tranny because I think the binding cruise control snapped the cable. I'll just buy the Tranny cable and get the CC fixed later and not buy two speedometer cables. Plus I know I'm good to the dash so that cable is good and I don't have to crawl around under the dash and fight the back of the speedometer. I hate crawling around under the dash! LOL Not sure which cable I need either, they show about 3 or 4 different ones. I already have the Eliminator so I'll use it in the interim and I'll have it onhand for future use or if someone else needs one for temporary like me. Gonna measure it tomorrow and see. Worked on headlights and washer motor today.

Well I learned something about the headlights on my monte today. Had no lo beams, only hi beams. Voltage checked good, turned out it actually was the bulbs. I thought it would be something in the wiring since they were both not working, but seems that the headlights are wired in series and go through the drivers side and then pigtail off over to the passenger side. So if you have a problem on the driver side the passenger side might not work either. Mine was bad (corroded) contacts on the connectors and corroded solder joint on the bulbs themselves in fact one of the terminals on each bulb came right off when trying to separate the stuck on for who knows how many years connectors. Cleaned the connectors plugged in the new halogen bulbs (auto parts store had them in stock, had to go to 2 stores.........LOL Autozone had only one and Oreilly's had only one too, go figure). Always change them out in pairs because they do deteriorate and get dimmer with age. Had power to the washer pump so the button is working at the dash but pump no worky! I think I see how to separate the pump from the wiper motor assembly, so I may try to pull it off and examine it tomorrow to see if I just need to repair the washer pump bladder or get a new pump assy. Repair kit is like 6 bucks, new washer assy is about $80. Gonna crawl under tomorrow and measure the speedometer cable from CC to tranny. Maybe pull the cable out and look at the gear. Still making progress and learning new things about the car. Pretty soon I will know her from head to toe.

I have to ask this. You did hook it up to the sensor on the drivers side right?

Well my cruise control eliminator did not get my speedometer working. I think it must be a broken cable or gear in the tranny. My cruise control was bad, and is probably what broke the cable or the gear. The CC eliminator is basically just the front half of the cruise control unit without the electonic/vacuum parts mounted to a flat plate that bolts in place to the same mount for the CC. I found it on Ebay by searching for Cruise Control Eliminator. There are also rebuilt cruise control units on Ebay. See the photo's........................... The first one is the CC Eliminator, 2nd one is the back of it and how it mounts, 3rd one is my original CC Unit and in the 4th one you can see how the inside of the lower cable (transmission side) looks to be missing. The CC Elimintaor has gear all the way to the snout and on my original it looks hollow in the hole. Probably broken or worn off inside there. Thought this would be my speedometer working but looks like it snapped the cable or stripped the gear and my problem is further back. I'll post what I find on here.

Thanks Willie. Hey, I'm retired, what else do I have to do...............LOL (Actually, I keep quite busy with lots of projects, but this Monte had my devoted attention for weeks now)

Amen Brother!

Yes I think so!

What kind of torque is that 1000 HP 4 cylinder engine going to make?? I'd be curious to see the specs on that. If you take that same technology and apply it to the bigger displacement engine, I'd bet your result would be 2000 HP or whatever ratio would match the displacement difference. And I bet the torque would be much higher too. But I get your drift................

Well I got my car all back together and got her out on the road again. Bled the brakes last night after the brake job and put the tires/wheels on her today, hooked up the battery and she cranked right up. The Rally wheels look sharp and are kind of nostalgic, but it is a pain in the but to get those beauty rings on. Mine kept popping out on the other side every time I'd get it started. Had to get my plumber to help me put one on, (getting my bathroom remodeled) I got the other 3 but that one was kicking my butt and the other 3 were a real pain too but I managed to get them by myself. I was on the fence about keeping the Rally Wheel Look w/ white letter tires or getting some Cragar SS and I think today made up my mind, Cragar SS put the wheel on and lug nuts and GO. My fiance does books for a tire store and the owner will sell them to me at cost so that's a no brainer. Yesterday changed the transmission fluid/filter, new pan gasket, new rear seal for the transmission. Will do the front seal when I yank the motor this winter. Took her down the road and rides real nice with the all new shocks and doesn't pull to the left anymore when I hit the brakes. Success! Stops nice and straight like she should. I'll take her down to Big John's next week and get the A/C serviced up and pray that everything will work after all the work and money I've put into rebuilding the air conditioning system. Tonight we had 2-60 air conditioning (2 windows down/60 mph) Took my fiance out to Angel's Diner (50's themed diner in my town) for dinner in her then ran her by the car wash and gave her a good washin' after being cooped up in the garage for 6 weeks. Felt good to have her out on the road again. Found out I have some more issues though...................sigh, low beam lights are not working, only high beams. both sides are out on low beam which leads me to believe it's probably a wiring issue, and the windshield washer doesn't work. Wipers work fine but no washer and yes there is fluid in the reservoir so I'll have to track that down. Still no speedometer, my cruise control bypass should be here tomorrow though so I hope the cruise control is the issue and not the transmission cable or gear. I can live without cruise control for a while, but it's dangerous looking down at my phone to see how fast my gps says we're going. My 8 track tape deck actually works!!!!!!!!!!!!! You have to jiggle the tape a bit to get it started but once I got it started she rocked like they used to. And YES I still have 8 Track Tapes and Reel to Reel as well and yes the equipment to play them with. We're having fun now!.............

There's no replacement for displacement! Period.

Me Either!

Does your car have cruise control? If so, it could be binding up in there, causing the cable to snap. I'm buying a cruise control eliminator for mine until I can get it rebuilt. It is simply a module that bolts in place of the cruise control and bypasses it.

Glad you found the problem. So the one you need is 1.098?

Wow! That's a deal for sure!

Bummer............ 😞

Welcome aboard! Again! 😉

So I finally got off my butt today and got busy on the car again. Finished up putting the brakes together, went smoothly. Then I tore into the HVAC Box on the firewall. Much to my surprise it was not as bad as I was thinking it was going to be. It wasn't easy, with the fender well still in but it wasn't that bad. Got the new evaporator installed and the new POA Valve and this time everything went together fairly nicely. However........................... The Old Air Products POA Eliminator has all of the ports except for the expansion valve port, lined up all in a straight row. This is a problem because to get the oil bleed line to connect you have to turn it to a certain position and then the service port and the switch are facing outward. On Joes Monte he got his POA Eliminator from Original Air Group and theirs is different and has the service port 90' from the other 2 ports, which allows you to point the switch down and leaves the service port at about a perfect 45' angle for servicing and without interference from the big line. Mine all three are lined up outboard and causes the service port to be very close to the big line and the switch gets in the way of the hood spring. You can't point the switch and service port up because 1. there is not enough hood clearance and 2. then the oil bleed line would be out of position. Did these designers ever actually install one of these???? I was able to bend the pipes and pry and rotate at different angles the POA Eliminator and push the thing away from the hood spring and it just barely clears. I'll have to keep an eye on it to see if the spring is chaffing the wires and I hope when I go to get it service up, they can get the service port connected. Not 100% happy with this install, but it is what it is. I may go back and order the Original Air Group POA Eliminator at a later time but for now, it's done. https://www.originalair.com/gm-ac-poa-delete-kit-15-51 The last photo is a photo of Joes setup that he sent to me. As you can see his is a different configuration and makes it easy to clear everything and keep the service port UP for servicing.

LOL That's OK. I didn't do a damn thing today either. I wasted the whole weekend just being lazy! I did smoke me a pork butt today! Loves me some pork butt! LOL

Glad you guys got the AC working good. What a PITA working on that stuff can be. I took some time off to enjoy the Holiday weekend with my sweety pie and didn't get much done on the car this weekend. Might get the brakes finished up tonight, but might not, we'll see how energetic I am. I'm in a hurry to get her back on the road again, and at the same time, not so much, and just taking my time. I'm curious to see if my new brake lines are going to hold pressure and seal up. I'm not too pleased with the way the flaring process went, but hopefully they will work. Then the last piece of the A/C system to tackle, the dreaded Evaporator! LOL