502ci

The gear vendors overdrive unit is .78 in overdrive. A 700R4/4l60E is .70 The 4L80E is .75 So my TH400 tranny goes as follows... 1st----2.48 Over---1.93 2nd----1.48 Over---1.15 3rd----1.00 Over---.780 I had to dimple my tunnel also to get it up tight. I ended up removing the rubber pads on my crossmember where it sits on the frame to gain a 1/4 inch. It works fine , no vibration or bumping when going through the gears. If you have not as steep of a gear as I have (4.11) you will benefit from this unit, as the gap between shifts can be shortened and not done so frantically, because you will have more time to think while you are doing it . If you had a 2.73 gear you could probably manually shift between 1st and 2nd.

This is hard to explain but here goes... There is a control module that you mount under your dash or where ever you want. There is a manual mode and auto mode. In auto mode you drive your car in a normal or hard manner and the unit will shift into overdrive at about 45 mph just like a normal overdrive (all by itself). As you slow down below 22mph or come to a complete stop the unit will come out of overdrive (all by itself). So what I`m saying is in auto mode it`s like having a normal overdrive tranny. In manual mode you can drive it normally and have the option of turning the overdrive on at any time by using a supplied foot switch (like the high beam switch you already have on your monte) or a switch on your shifter. I leave mine in manual mode always and shift it into overdrive at 35 mph. It also can be taken out of overdrive at any speed by pressing the switch again. Now if you want to start shifting between the gear shifts of your tranny you also leave the control module in manual mode. And this is where it gets tricky It is not suggested to shift the unit between 1st and 2nd gear when racing as the spacing of gears and shift time is very short (fast). They suggest that in the directions. Okay your racing, you manually shift your auto tranny from from first to second when the shift light comes on and when your shift light comes on again you hit the overdrive button, now when the shift light comes on again you hit the button again as well as shift your automatic into third. So at this point the overdrive is off and you are in normal third gear and technically you should not need to shift again through the traps, depending on your rear gear. I`m gonna post this much info right now before my computer acts up again as deletes it on me. I have more info though.

Reaper... I have about 6,000 miles on mine and the wear indicator is getting close to the tread depth. I will continue to drive mine past the wear mark. Rain will be the factor at one point. I ran mine at the track for a couple years so alot of tread went up in smoke , so it depends on what you do with them as to how long they will last. I`ll say this though I will never put a standard street tire on the back of my car again. Part throttle would spin them (dangerous). Now it takes about twice as much throttle to get them going.

Get a pair of slicks. I`ve used BF Goodrich drag radials at the track and they do not remotely compare to slicks. Of course there are really fast cars using drag radials and they will tell you different, but even with a fairly stock suspension a set of slicks will make your car hook. My dad uses the cheater slicks and has no spinning problem but I`m not sure you would want those unless you plan on leaving them on all the time. Another thing to consider is at the track (at least at mine) when running slicks on a day when they are having test and tune, you will get more runs in. At my track there are fewer cars testing that have slicks so they usually run half the street class then come back to the not street legal lanes and run them again. I use the Mickey Thompson ET drag tires. Size...28/10.5-15S The S stands for stiff sidewall, every thing I read and every person I talked to said go with the stiff sidewall. Unless you have no suspension then go with the soft sidewall so it can absorb the shock of the launch. Plus at the top end the stiffer sidewall tires give better control with a heavy monte. I`ve driven them to the track (45 minutes one way) with 28 lbs in them and they ride actually nice.

Oops, forgot to mention 4.11 rear gear.

This is my suspension and I`m not saying you need all this to run fast. My set-up is for adjustability on and off the track, okay here goes... *QA1 front coil-over 12-way adjustable shocks. *QA1 rear 12-way adjustable shocks. *Hotchkis lowering rear springs. *Adjustable rear spring spacer.(Sits under spring on perch.) Adjusts from 0 to 4". Can be used to preload right rear tire or lift both sides, adjusts in seconds with socket set. *Hotchkis front and rear swaybars. *Edelbrock double adjustable rear upper control arms. *Edelbrock boxed rear lower control arms. *Edelbrock tubular rear braces. (For strength and to accurately locate rear suspension.) The adjustable shocks are great, I`ve played with them and setting the right rear and the left front at the stiffest while leaving the left rear and the right front at the softest gives a controlled even launch every time.

I`m already convinced that it will be a single plane, Sam is suggesting the Victor Junior. I`m assuming you suggested and modified that one for him. Is that one the best for me, with my crate 502 and that F2 supercharger that I talk about all the time? I am also aware that I need a custom built blow thru carb. Whenever you have the time I appreciate the input. Bill

Awhile back I was looking for a transmission that would hold up to abuse and the overdrives sounded good till you looked at how much hp they can only take. For the average person those units are great but I myself wanted something to handle 1,000 + hp. What power level are your plans? I went with a built TH400 and put a gearvendors under/overdrive unit on it. This unit is not cheap costing like $2,400 but can handle 1,200 hp all day. Can even be modded to handle more. I love mine, it drops my 4.11 down to a 3.22, saves gas and wear on the engine also. Maybe you are already familiar with this product, although I`m still amazed at how many people never heard of it. It mounts in place of your tail shaft and looks like this... Here`s a link to the site... www.gearvendors.com

Here is my timeslip data... My 1.57 60 ft. was a mistake or I can`t find that one timeslip, either way it wasn`t on my two 11 second runs. 60 ft. ---- 1.640 330 ft. --- 4.853 1/8 ET ---- 7.606 1/8 MPH --- 89.10 1000' ET -- 9.951 1/4 ET ---- 11.959 1/4 MPH --- 112.20 The other 11 second was almost exact as above.

$$$$$ Got to draw the line somewhere, so new heads are out.

Aluminum oval port 110cc. The heads are stamped GM Performance Parts. Your saying edelbrock makes them?

I`ve been looking for a new intake, what does Don do to it? Also I have to make sure that manifold is the best one compatable for a centrifugal supercharger.

Here`s a picture of my original stock 72 seatbelt, hope this helps...

They lowered it to 11.49 and faster, then you need at least a 5 point roll-bar. Roll cage at 9.99

Another cool part of the story was when I stopped for gas 8 miles before the track at a main intersection off the highway. While pumping gas three guys came over and starting talking to me about my car, they were all from Norway. They were telling me about their cars they had back home, one had a blown small block 37 chevy running 11.92, another had 69 camaro running 10.30`s, and the third guy had a supercharged 91 vette but didn`t say what it ran, but then he was the hardest to understand. They asked why I was driving with slicks on, I told them I was heading to the track. They startng getting excited, they were heading to Columbus Ohio for the Mopar nationals (I think that`s what he said) and asked if they could follow me to the track. I said no problem. They are driving in a rented cadallac escalade, and wanted to race it. So at the track they are taking turns driving it with a bet the loser has to buy the beer. These guys were pretty cool, eventually the one guy is ripping the air filter out hoping to go faster .

Went to the dragstrip last night and finally hit the 11`s, several back to back 11.95`s, car normally runs 12.03- 12.04`s. I won`t give credit to my fuel upgrade (I do not believe this had any effect on the E.T. because mph was the same) and I kinda figured that it wouldn`t, it was installed for future upgrades. I`ll give credit to my new lighter front wheels and tires, also 70 degrees outside. 60 ft times increased to 1.57 from 1.65

My above post was for David on shorty headers. My headers only scraped when I had it slammed, I`ve since raised it, still a little low and they never scrape.

Try this link... http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch....k=KeywordSearch Seems like there are several.

With my 502 ci motor I tried to install hooker super comp. ceramic coated headers, 2" primary and 3 1/2" collector. No way was it going to clear my drivers side A-arm, the arm would have to be cut quite a bit to clear the tube. I settled on hooker competition headers, still had to grind the mounting flange to clear my head bolts. I noticed later that this header made contact in the same spot with my A-arm but it is minor and put a very small dimple in it. I see now hooker has a stainless version of the comp. header, too late for me.

Quote: But seriously, how likely is this? The kind of shock required to dislodge the bundle of metal from the magnet would mean you probably had a pretty serious accident anyway, besides, the metal would simply fall back to the magnet - especially since the fluid probably wouldn't be flowing anymore. And maybe you wouldn't care at that point anyway! The benefits definitely outweigh any possible, remote risk.I was showing "the con" (worst case scenario) to you, also I stated several posts before that... "I have magnetic drain plugs tranny, oil, and rearened." So I do believe they work and out way the bad.

As far as seeing if the pan lip is straight, take the pan into the house and set it face down on your kitchen table or any known flat surface. Check around perimeter for gaps, slide paper around it to see if it fits in some ares and not others. Of course your surface has to be flat . As far as taking the pan with you to the parts store, just trace the pan on a large piece of paper also drawing in the bolt holes. Then you can fold it up and take it with you.

Only 2 1/2 quarts?

The only con is when the magnet has collected alot of metal and cannot hold anymore and then however it happens (bump, impact, fluid pressure) all the collected metal comes loose and is now flowing as a dangerous mass that would of never happened if a magnet wouldn`t of brought it all together in the first place.

NateZ... Let us (me) know how well that Detroit Tru-Trac works, as far as noise, smoothness, traction, etc... I`ve been looking at that unit for awhile now but noone I know has installed one.