201fireman

I have a 12 bolt rear end. I have a new driveshaft made with 1350 U joints so I need to change the pinion yoke. What yoke is a good one to use for 650 HP? I have Richmond ring & pinion. I know it is a 30 spline but I don't want to get the wrong one.

Gotcha, thanks guys. Yes I did buy the right bracket on the side of the trans. I believe my TH350 bracket was horizontal and this one is vertical or the other way around. I am betting the adjustment on the horseshoe handle might solve it. I wasn't aware of that. I am using the same cable from the shifter to the bracket, that's was I was hoping wasn't the problem with the TH400 sitting back a bit farther. I guess I look at the shifter adjustment. Thanks again for the help guys!

I swapped a TH350 for a TH400. I used the same shifter cable and things. When I put it in gear, the floor shift doesn't line up with the gears as you got through them. For example, when it is in drive, you look down and the shifter says it is in the neutral position. It goes through the gears ok, the spacing between the gears just seems tighter. Am I missing something?

I just installed it in mine. Mine seems like the opposite. My brakes feel almost like manual brakes. The pedal goes about the same amount down before they come in to play but you push them harder than power brakes to get it to stop (not quite as much as manual would be but close). The first time it was on the road was today for about a mile so hopefully it will set it.

I was looking at the Innova 5568 also but when you read up on it, it makes you curious why they would say it doesn't work with MSD ignition when some people say it works for them.

I recently went to a 140 amp alternator (10si). I got an alternator wiring kit from MadElectrical and ran bigger wire out of the alternator. I also followed his recommendation and went to remote voltage sensing at the horn relay. Now the alternator gets hot when the car warms up and I can't tell if this is because it is a 140 amp alternator and I have it mid-mounted in front of the head (March pulley kit) instead of high up or there is something wrong. The new battery has good voltage and I checked the alternator temp with my laser temp pointer and it gets to about 125 degrees. I did do a positive and negative voltage drop test and the negative is .25, the positive I couldn't get because it moves all over (due to the rocky idle maybe?). Any thoughts?

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Well guys I talked with Mark from Mad Electrical today... for over two hours. He had my mind all over the place. What a great guy with a a ton of knowledge and a genuine passion for automotive electrical systems. At no time did he try to sell me anything at all. He just asked me questions, explained a million things to me so they made total sense, and there was a little classic car BS in there also. I am not ashamed to say I have a few things powered from the less than ideal places. I will be spending the weekend in the garage tweaking the wiring. I got his alternator upgrade kit for $35 and some good quality ring terminals. Once again you guys pulled through for me. Thanks a bunch. This FGMCC group is amazing.

Yea I saw that but unless I missed it, it didn't say when that was put there so I wasn't sure if that was current. Thank you sir

Has anyone ever dealt with Mark from Madelectrical.com? I have tried to call them the past two days and no answer, no voicemail option.

Thanks a ton! I will figure this dam thing out lol... I think

Ok, I think I found it. It does merge with a brown wire going to the starter.

Anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram or schematic for the charging system (alternator, regulator, horn relay, etc.). My battery wire goes from the alternator to the horn relay and I am wondering if it is spliced in with another one somewhere in the loom to feed back to the starter. When I probe the wire at the horn relay and behind the alternator it shows no resistance so I have the right end. Also, when I probe the starter where the main battery cable and a couple of other wires go and the back of the alternator, it still shows none (with the wire disconnected from the horn relay). Seems weird to me. If it isn't connected with another wire going back to the starter, I am not sure how the battery would charge. I am going to try to get a hold of Mark from Mad Electrical but I thought I would ask in the interest of learning and curiosity.

I guess I need to get up with Mark then... Thanks again guys for all of the help. Here I thought by adding a second accessory fuse block I was solving the issue lol.

Awesome. Thanks for taking the time to share this. I appreciate it!

Thanks for the info guys. I am finding these: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30700 https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/6-gauge-alternator-connection-kit The Painless kit says to run it to the battery. The American Autowire kit says to run it to the starter. Does it matter which? Also, I have a 10si alternator with the flat, two wire plug on it also. Am I ok to leave that the way it is?

Ok, so you added a 10 ga. wire to the existing 10 ga. wire so there are now two, 10 ga. wires? Not a bad idea. I converted to an internally regulated alternator a few years ago so if my memory serves me correctly, I removed the regulator.

Thanks David. Where does the wire go to? I got a new wire harness a few years back during my build and they were all in a harness. My plan is to run a 6ga. from the alternator and tag it along the harness to wherever it is supposed to go so I don't have to rip into the harness.

I went to a 150 amp alternator on my SBC to BBC conversion. The wire going to my alternator is a 10 gauge. Do I need to increase that and if so, where does it feed to?

Ok, I have the classic performance hydroboost kit with the proportioning valve under the master. All of the fittings on there are 3/16" also now that I look closer. I guess they want 3/16" so that answers that. Thanks!

I am going to a hydroboost system and I need to make new brake lines. I am looking at the nickel-copper tubing because the reviews say it is easy to use. I need to know what size the line is that goes from the proportioning valve to the back, the size of the two that go from the proportioning valve to the front wheels, and the two that go up to the master cylinder. I find them for sale but no where can I find a size. Any idea? 3/16"? 1/4"?

Hey Tom, do you know what type of vacuum pump you have on yours?

Thanks guys. Is there an easy way to reset it?

I replaced my master cylinder and booster and moved my proportioning valve up to the top of the frame during my SBC to BBC swap. Front brakes bled fine. Rear will not bleed (neither side). I pulled the line off going into the proportioning valve and it does come out. I opened the line just prior to the rubber hose above the rear diff and nothing. I am assuming I did something that messed up the proportioning valve. Any ideas or thoughts as to what I can try?

Thanks folks.