overdrive

Good instructions there! I'll only add that you may want to pull the fuse or disconnect the battery first.

The shocks came yesterday and they look good. They came with the air line that I needed to complete my supply line from the compressor, included. And it's black!

Hi Jim. A member here named Lyle, from Eldon, MO. gave me the exploded view of the compressor and the parts list. I'd forgotten I have that. I'd like to have the info. explaining how the system works. Please send that by email and I can post it here. I'd like to see the filter. Please let me know when you'll be up this way. I bet you were here last Sunday. You missed a great car show in Hannibal on Sat. I'll make an inlet filter but I'm also interested in buying an original one. If anyone has any leads on where I can get one, please PM me.

I had a nice conversation with Bob today and he was very helpful. I need to remove the compressor from the car and plug the outlet port. Pressurize the compressor with an air hose to 110-120 psi through the Schrader valve on the compressor. It should not lose but maybe 5 psi in 24 hrs. Check for leaks by submerging in water. I can also check the rest of the system by installing a Schrader valve on the air line at the top of the inner fender and airing up the shocks from there. Check for leaks with soapy water. After any leaks are fixed, install the compressor and air up the system through the Schrader valve to about 50 lbs. before starting the car to let the compressor run the pressure on up. With the original base that I have, I can make an inlet filter for the compressor. He said the top of the filter can be made from a piece of thin rubber. He sent me these pics to post.

Thanks Larry. That page is helpful. Where did it come from? Bob, I'll send a PM to get your #. Thanks.

504516 is the # I found on this site a few weeks ago and the Rock Auto site also shows they fit our cars.

I have 2 compressors now, original brackets and repro. brackets and 2 valves. I was able to get 1 compressor working. I've only tested it to 10 pounds. I just had a hose on a pressure guage pushed over the air line. 95% of the original lines are still in place. I need to splice in a short piece from the comp. to the frame, just behind the front tire. I have some many questions. The pressure bled off fairly quick after I shut the motor off. Is this normal or should it hold the pressure? I'm thinking it shouldn't bleed off quickly. Does anybody have any repair parts for the compressors? I at least need some gaskets and an o-ring. I'm not sure just yet what else I'll need to get the 2nd compressor to work. Where can I get the correct size air line? The original line is smaller than any aftermarket lines I've seen. I only need about 4 or 5 feet of the black air line. Where can I get paper or online info on how this system works? All I have is an owners manual, dealer brochure, and a Haynes repair manual for the Monte. None of them mention the system. Does anyone know where to get an air inlet filter? Does anyone here have a good pic of the filter? Has anyone here made an inlet filter? I have the base for one, but that is all. The rest has decayed. Does the compressor shut off at a certain pressure, or will it run all of the time the engine is running? I know the frame mounted valve will regulate the pressure. I'm trying to get about everything on the car working before I take it apart for a full restoration. How many of you guys and gals have reliable, working level ride systems, or have these always been a problem on the Monte Carlo? Sorry for so many questions, but I think there are probably others here that can use the same information. There is very little info about this system that I've been able to find, so far. Thanks for any help. I'm looking forward to getting my level ride working again. Dan.

I found online that Rock Auto has the AC Delco shocks for the SS for less than $73 for a pair. $81 shipped to my door! I thought that was excellent, considering my local Chevy dealer wants about $90 ea. and I had to tell them the GM part #. Rock Auto

Please send them to me, too. I'll email you. Thank you!

I like the clear on it. I've had Don's catalogs before. Our trunk mat came from OPGI and I had to do the same cut for the jack bracket on it 2 yrs ago. I called OPGI about it not fitting and the guy acted like he didn't know what the h*ll I was talking about, but he did offer to take it back. I just made a new cut. I wonder if they fit the Chevelles without mods? I'll try the one from Don's, just because it lays down right. Thanks!

It looks great! Nice job. Did you use a clear coat over the spatter paint? The trunk mat that we bought for the '71 curls on the edges, even after laying it in the sunlight and then later heating it with a heat gun. Yours looks much better. Where did you buy it? I need 1 for the SS. Dan.

Here you go... I looked at it closely and the lense is clear, not amber. Let us know if you need help with the windows. We'd like to see some pics of how your car is coming along.

Hi Janin. I checked my washer monitor. I was going to take it apart to get you some good pics, but it wouldn't come apart without the chance of breaking something. A float tube goes almost to the bottom and the float is very near the bottom of the tube. It's attached to a flat piece of plastic that moves up to block the light from entering the fiber optic when the fluid level is okay and it only moves down about one centimeter when the level is low. This downward movement lets the light shine into the fiber. Mine is not the same as the one that was described earlier. It doesn't have any different colors to shine the light through. The part that is mounted under the left side of the dash looks like it has an amber colored lense. Can someone please post pics of a monitor that they know for a fact is an original? I have only had this car for about a year and I have no way of knowing for certain that the monitor is an original. I've never seen another. Do you have pics, Janin? Dan.

Thanks! That's good to know.

Glad you're finding the information that you need. Mr. Mitschke should join us here. We put the same Edelbrock carb on our 71. You'll like it. The seat back electric lock option, [st bk elec lk], is very, very rare. It was available, but not listed in the FGMCC tech pages for 1970.

Here is a link to a rebuilt 10 bolt for sale. The rearend in this ad may not be what you want, but this guy can probably answer any of your questions and he can build any GM rear that you need, if he doesn't already have it.

You have the only 70 that I know of that came with dual exhaust and a 2 barrel! Your car has some nice options. I see you even have the AM radio with 8 track tape player. What is the first option, the one above the electric door locks? I'll see what I can find out about the Chevy 10 bolts. Dan.

Janin, this link may help, if you haven't already seen it. There are some more threads at the bottom of the page. I also found this: The best way to identify an 8.5 is to remove the cover and inspect the ring gear bolts. If the head of the bolt requires an 11/16-inch wrench (7/16-inch bolt diameter), then its an 8.5. If the ring gear bolt requires only a 9/16-inch wrench (3/8-inch bolt diameter), then its an 8.2-inch rear. Be aware that the ring gear bolts on the 8.5 are lefthand threads.

Thanks! I'll call them in the morning.

Trying to stop leaks. I replaced the filter and pan gasket on our 70. The shaft of the 34 teeth, speedo driven gear is worn. Where can I get a good driven gear and the seal? Thanks! Dan.

We put an NOS pair on our 71 and they didn't hurt the paint. I was a little worried when I tapped them in place, though. We put on several coats of primer, 3 coats base and 3 coats clear.

If you want the bare metal look you can clear coat it. I usually do that on some linkages and gas and trans lines and it lasts pretty well. I always degrease, sand and degrease again. I doubt it will stick very well without sanding but you may not want to sand the tank. It surely has some type of rust resistant coating from the factory, doesn't it?

Quote: Not only that, they only sold a few SS454's and they took pictures of them all. He might have a pic of my car on the lot or with the original owner or both cool That would be incredible if he can send you a pic of your car at the dealership! I hope you get at least one!

Welcome! I think we didn't see your post! Sorry. I'll take a stab at this. Someone please jump in and help if I'm wrong. I had a similar post awhile back. It's here. ST71= 1971 13857= 2 dr coupe body style K= built in Kansas City TR734= the trim # of 734 is the type of seats and color of interior. I don't have anything to decode this. Others here do. 42=Cottonwood Green paint G= The 71 color chart doesn't show this. The 70 chart shows this as Dark Green vinyl top and Dark Green paint on the stainless trim around the vinyl top. 12C= built the 3rd week of Feb 1971