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KWick_70MC

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Everything posted by KWick_70MC

  1. Out of curiosity, what was the last thing you did before this problem started?? I/e did you go for a drive and park for a while, or did it just start one day when you got in it? What if any maintenance did you possibly do? How does a rag over the carb equate to a vacum leak? I have never heard that one before.. To me it sounds like it is sucking to much air, and the rag blocks some flow Does it run better or worse with full choke and cold? when you depress the pedal, does it seem like it is lagging behind, and seems like it wants to get to higher RPM's but just can't seem to get there?
  2. Well if funds are no problem, I would go with the Keisler setup from auto to 5 speed using an RS-600/500 depending on your torque level.. It is surely a one stop shop.. The sell a kit for the whole upgrade, but I have never had the nerve to call.. If mulla is short, probably would go with Leo for the clutch portions, and then a 4 speed till you can swing the other tranny.. But as expensive a Muncie and Super T-10 are, a 5 speed is not much more I don't think..
  3. That is awesome if you would do that.. are you converting to a 5 speed from an auto, or are doing a 4 speed to 5 speed? I am concerned with the flywheel bearing, mating to the bellhousing, clutch fork alignment (did you go with the hydrolic) and fitment under the floorboard..
  4. http://aarc.epnet.com/autoapp/8668/8668R05_ADJUSTMENTS.htm http://vetteworks.tripod.com/qjet.htm http://www.hotrodhigh.ca/RebuildQjet.html Here are somne good articles, as well as some tech write ups on properly setting things..
  5. The only real way is, as far as I know, is to watch it do it's thing.. you can do by your self by pulling the throtle wide open, and then with the other hand pull the lever at the end of the thermostat and see if it sets right..
  6. Matt, see the canister in pix 1119, left of the yellow piece, that is the "heat thermostat" for the choke/high idle. As the car warms up it pulls/pushes the lever to open the choke up and get the idle off the fast idle cam.. when you start the car, you are suppose to push the excelorator pedal down a few times to shoot some gas in the carb, and this also sets the fast idle and choke. When the pedal is pushed to the floor it allows travel for all these parts. The thermostat puls the choke closed, and the fast idle cam to position, and as it heats up, walla it slowley releases it to operating position.. I would have someone do this while you watch under the hood to see if it is setting correctly, and if it is not, check to see if it sets if you hold it open and pull the lever. If it does work correctly, odds are the thermostat is bad or missaligned. I would go with missaligned, unless they are really rusty or just in sad shape, they can be adjusted.
  7. Not to Hi Jack the thread, but with the TKO 500, did you have to cut the center hump more than just the hole for the shifter?? I want to go to a 5 or 6 speed but DO NOT want to cut up my floorboards.. The RS-4/5/600 is suppose to be a new non cut your stuff up install. But wanted to know, as I have a TKO-500 in the area for sale, and he wants little to nothing for it, but needs to be rebuilt.
  8. I myself like ALL stick shift cars, so it would be cool for me to have. My old 65 F85 was 3 on the tree(winter beater), and thats how I learned to drive a stick. Fun to drive too. The column itself, if it was not changed out, should have all the shift levers coming thru it. There should be two levers, vice one for an auto.
  9. Leo, who is a member here (http://koniksklassiks.com/), should have everything you need in a one stop shop. You can also buy a kit from http://www.keislerauto.com/ These have the complete setup as well. You can go from an auto to any stick transmission you want, just depends on if you want to modify the tunnel (5 or 6 speed tranny) or just cut the hole and weld in a 4 speed tunnel like from the factory. Things to think about. New dash to get rid of the pointer for the old auto, do you want the factory look, so maybe a new steering column. If you do not have a tilt column recommend you get one if your going to replace the column. Are you gonna change out to buckets? If you buy a stick from a chevelle, keep in mind there are some pieces that are different, so you STILL have to get them. But here at the FGMCC site, we (well at least me anyways) always love a good, I cut up a chevelle to make my Monte cool, stories.. :-) Kevin
  10. Pinksta.. you and my brother will get along just fine.. LOL
  11. Thoughts and Prayers for Ronnie and his family in this time of need. God Bless, The Wick Family
  12. I love Misty Blue peeking around the corner and seeing if she is next.. lol Looks good Aaron.. You have an eye for details.. Kevin
  13. Jim, that is great news.. Looks like you have yourself a true SS454 .. Now you have to post pix, or we will send the canadian mafia up to see you.. :-) We really like pics here, and cool finds like this are awesome.. Kevin
  14. They changed the casting in mid 69 and I have yet to find a place that talks about what casting dates / codes go with the chnges to the casting in 1969. It just depends if it has a high (early) or a low (late) distributor boss. Kevin
  15. CRN is a 1970 LS5 like Sam said. Please double check the letters and numbers, but this is what I get. The 1 on 10202 is probably a T and not a 1 for the Tonawanda plant. A 1 was substituted for a T a lot in the creation of the CON VIN's. 0202 is Feb 22 of 1970 18815XXXX = 1 is Chevrolet, 1st 8 is most likely a zero for 1970, Second 8 is (no gaurentee) probably a B for the Baltimore plant and 15XXXX is and should be the last 6 of the VIN in your dash. The last 8 digits of the number (8815XXXX) should be the same as the last 8 digits of the VIN in the dash. Your casting number should be on the driver side where the bell housing mates with the block and should be 3963512. A 28 70 should be the actual casting date of January 28th, 1970. The PA 69 I believe is the form date of the casting. So the casting mold was 1969, your block was poored in January of 1970, and then the motor itself was built in February of 1970. This all should flow with the build date of your car on the body tag under the hood. Kevin
  16. Yeah, I kind of figured.. I was hopin for a friday morning before the festivities..
  17. OK, today I took the day and went and did one of my favorite things to do with friends.. Yes.. besides MC's and cold Barley pops.. GOLF.. So I said to self.. "SELF" I wonder if anyone would want to shoot a round at the western meet?? We do not have to go 18, but we would surely have to hit the 19th hole. It would be a gas to maybe get a few swings in. Anyone interested?? Kevin
  18. If gas gets any more expensive, we are all going to have to take out second mortgages on houses to pay for it.. Holy schnikies.. I am at 550 miles, but that pass outside of La Grande is a doosey... (Emigrant Hill) Kevin
  19. Man it seems like just yesterday we were all in Oregon.. Not necessarily in that order..
  20. Dang, and here I thought you had some big muscle in the foot stool.. :-) They look nice... Kevin
  21. Check and make sure that the log in your using for your profile has admin rights to change the setting. If you are logged in as a user, outlook express will not let you change some of the functions. Kevin
  22. I have to hit COSTCO now and get some chairs, and a canopy.. My brother just confirmed he is flying out for the show again, he had such a great time he wants to come out again.. Kevin
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