cudax

That block (289) can be bored out to just about anything, very thick.

Replaced mine with a TCI Rattler and it runs smooth as silk. The only issue, which I like, is you can hear the ball bearings settling for just a second after I shut the engine down.

582! This might not be the right thread but did you ever post any pics? I would love to see that fatty under the hood. Mike

If you are referring to me, yes big block and I went with long tube. Really no issues at all other than what I mentioned above. Mike

I bought a set of used big block Chevelle headers when I first bought my car and they hit in the same location as yours. I now have 2" Hooker Comps, and as Sam mentioned, you have to move your proportioning valve. I bumped mine to the top of the frame and was able to use the existing brake lines. Mike

Check out Luxford Auto Parts (.com). I purchased their powder coated 454 covers for my 496 running 1.7 rollers and no fitment issues with my stock booster. I can still remove them too with no issues. You do have to be careful if you are pulling or installing your engine with them on though, which I wouldn't do with covers on anyway. Can send you pics if you want. Mike

Hmmmm, I might have to give that one a try.

How do you work it Sam, do you try and cut in between the seams through the spot weld?

Eastwood has some nice ones that are skip proof. Which ever way you go it is recommended that you use a cutting oil, or at least a good lubricant or you will go through them pretty quick. Mike

Titusville, haven't had my car there in a while but I hope to be there in December. Mike

When looking at the 2", it is special order only through Glastek $850 + shipping. Mike

How long ago was that Sam? Glasstech is like 300 - 400 more than US Body.

Here is a pic of a Monte that had a 2" cowl US Body Source hood on it. He said it was a perfect fit and he loved it. He also mentioned that they recommend you add hood pins for consistent 80 MPH driving. The car was at the monthly New Smyrna, Florida car show there last weekend. Mike http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn194/mccuda/MonteGlassHood_zps9cdc83e9.jpg http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn194/mccuda/MonteWithGlassHood_zpsc47dfb25.jpg http://usbodysource.com/

DUI here too, and I am so impressed with it that I will use them on all my cars. Outstanding customer service too. Mike

Here is another option, they make some really nice stuff. http://www.carusoperformance.com/index.html Mike

Awesome!!! That is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you, I really appreciate it! Mike

I am running 2" Hooker Comps and and I haven't noticed any issues. However, I used ARP studs on the heads and because of that, I had to grind the header flanges around the studs to allow them to fit properly. I also had to move my brake prop valve to the top of the frame and was able to reuse my existing brake lines. As far as the crank seals, I think you will find everyone has different preferences. Though I just went through a rebuild which included a new crank, my rear main is leaking. I used a Felpro seal but for some reason it didn't seal properly. I was going to do a little research to see what's out there, maybe go with a viton seal next time?

By chance, does anyone have pics of the small filler pieces that fit behind the inner fender wells? I believe they fill the gap between the fender and firewall. Mine were all busted out when I bought my car but I now have replacements that I want to install and I can't figure out where they fit. Thanks in advance, Mike

I have been running the Race Rite heads on my 496 for about 8 months now and I am very happy with them. No cnc, 1.7 roller rockers, ARP studs, 10.1 compression and though they are just part of the build/configuration, crazy torque! The only thing you have to watch out for is the lip on the rear bottom corners of the head where the valve cover sits is very low. Make sure you have excellant sealing valve cover gaskets because that is a common leak area on these heads. Mike

Thanks Tony, I still have to put my inner fender wells in but that's about it.

Just wanted to post a few pics from a local car show yesterday. There was a 2014 Corvette Stingray (check out the emblem), a 40's something Suburban, my friends 62 Corvair and only 1 other Monte besides mine was there. Hope you enjoy! Mike http://s304.photobucket.com/user/mccuda/library/Titusville%20SPCA%20Car%20Show

Sorry bud, I guess I read your thread wrong. I am running Taylor 10.4 mm wires with 45 deg boots, plus, I have the blue fiberglass protective sleeves on them. On the cylinders you mentioned, the sleeve shows a hot spot from the header but it protects the wire perfectly. Mike

Yes, as I mentioned in my earlier thread I am running 2" on my 496 and have that problem. They sell a special 5/8" socket for this which is basically a spark plug socket cut in half. I cut one of mine and saved $26 bucks and it works fine. Still have to use a little patience though. Mike

I remember the AAR Cudas used a muffler with the inlet and outlet on the same front side of the muffler. This allowed the outlet pipe to bend back and exit in front of the rear tire. Not sure if a muffler of this design would work on our cars but it might be worth the research. Mike