o_rod

Well this is driving me crazy, and it's such a small thing... My engine has now swallowed 5 e-clips that hold on the distributor center weight, and of course no one and I mean NO ONE supplies these damn things. Does anyone happen to know the size of them? Such a stupid thing to ask, but man I have no luck with them...

How many miles on it? A replacement accelerator pump is only 15 bucks and the springs tend to be soft on edelbrocks, I'd just replace it. Edelbrocks website has great writeups, they also have a writeup on how to adjust it properly. Also, check your base timing make sure it's where it should be, not sure what your engine combo is or if you have both mechanical and vacuum advance.

Wow, that's a hefty to do/want list bud... Only piece of advice I can give you is from my own experience from modifying many cars and that is to separate that list and concentrate on one aspect of the car at a time. For example, when I bought my Monte I wanted to do the suspension, wheels, interior and body. Over the last winter I concentrated on just the interior and got that done, now ill drive and enjoy it for the summer. Next winter I'll do the body, after that, suspension... If you try and accomplish that list all in one shot I think you'll end up over your head and with many different things started and not finished... Ofcourse this is just how I operate, but why not start with what you have and go from there. Sounds like you have some engine parts already, seems like a good place to start!

I'm no expert but would 15psi from the regulator be enough to continously feed both the solenoids and the carb continuously?

That's beautiful, nice job.

That'll be fun! I was gonna run nitrous until I seen the price we pay, 9 bucks a lbs up here. Going turbo instead. Your gonna need multiple bottles or one huge one if your going to run that big of a shot or your track days will be cut short.

When my diodes went it did constantly drain my battery, all it takes is a small short circuit or reversing polarity on the battery to toast them. I don't know the details on your swap but my "gen" dash light was on all the time, even when the ignition was off when my alt went bad indicating a constant draw.

Thanks. So that bracket from the light switch is attached to the dash frame in the same spot as the other picture posted. The 2 ground loops from the harness is where I'm confused

Yes it is

Digital voltage meter. Other gauges are going in a custom cluster on the center console. I ran out of room for gauges so moved it there

Hmm... I have a bracket that goes from the light knob frame and grounds to the dash frame... Where on the dash does this one go? I suppose ithat doesn't matter which one goes where?

Another fun, cheap project!

Ahhh perfect! Thanks for that...

Ready to put the dash back in and I cannot remember where these 2 ground loops go?

These 2 ground rings, cannot remember where they go other than on each side of the steering wheel. Can someone help?

Awesome, looking forward to seeing the progress... A small piece of advice would be to start with gas since your using thinner materials like body panels. I found Flux core to be very frustrating to learn with. I was constantly burning through, welds looked sloppy and I eventually gave up and put the machine on the shelf for awhile. That was until I went and got myself a cylinder of blue shield and ran with gas. It's so night and day with thinner materials that you'll think you were using a whole different machine! I bought my Lincoln Power mig 140 on sale with a regulator and gas line and it's been an amazing machine. I do regret not going bigger though as I have a 240v plug in my garage I could have utilized.

Ya, think it was a spammer, and taken care of quickly, well done moderators.

I'm currently in the process of cleaning up my dash/gauges, long story short I accidentally hit my speedometer needle and it spun around to 120! I simply pushed it back to 0, but now if I swing it up with my finger and let it drop, it stops at 20. Did I screw it up or can I just set it back to 0 and call it good? I don't want to put the dash all together and find out the speedo is pooched!

Nice touches on the rear bumper. Are you going to be running a fuel cell or are you somehow going to run the exhaust around the stock tank?

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/149642-using-adhesive-instead-of-welding-body-metal-experts-please/ Good info here...

I was in the same boat as you on my last project car. I went the route Cbolt recommended and bought a small MIG and learned on some scrap metal before touching anything valuable. Best decision I have ever made! With a little experience under my belt with the MIG I now fab up my own body panels, exhausts, whatever... if your so inclined.

I'll be hanging onto the original buckets.

I got around to fabbing up and test fitting my 75 dollar seat upgrade to replace my ugly stock buckets. I picked these up out of an 04 Acura RSX premium at my local pick n pull for 35 each. I then grinded off the stock brackets and welded on my own out of 1/8" hardened steel. Turned out pretty good and had a lot of fun doing it.

Grabbed them out of an 04 Acura RSX type S. Very supportive and comfortable. Total cost was 75 bucks canadian from a local pick n' pull. I seen a Chevelle with these bolted in but for some reason they aren't fitting as well for me in the Monte. Oh well, I ended up fabbing and welding in my own mounts/brackets to get these where I want them. I'll post the whole process once it's complete.

I'm in the process of mounting a set of Acura RSX leather buckets in the Monte and would like to hear from those who mounted stock seats from modern cars... The seats would have been easy to mount but in the stock mounting bracket locations but the seat ends up too close to the steering wheel. It seems they need to be moved back another 3 or 4" back to be comfortable. I seen a guy run a set.of these in a Chevelle and he used the stock locationso and they are further back. I thought all A body interiors are interchangeable?