cny first gen 71

I have what I think is stock sb a/c springs in the front and moog cargo coils in the rear with 225 70s all the way around I like the way it sits

Way to many variables here. Did you have good flow from the bleaders when bleeding the brakes? How did you bench bleed the master before you put it on? was there any reason to belive the fluid may be contaminated with anything other than brake fluid? better flow in the front than the rear? or no flow? You could get a set of brake hose clamps and install them on the 3 brake hoses and try the pedal to see if its hard if so release them one at a time to see where the problem is. Most likely its not the booster that is just an assist device so you dont have to push so hard on the pedal when brakeing. Good luck but its just a matter of narrowing it down to one problem but getting there may take a while.

Nice indeed even did the brake hardwear make sure it gets all lubed up on the pivot points.Anything that moves needs some sort of lube. Nice work, be carefull that crossmember dont gouge the wall up.

I rebuilt mine myself did hundreds back in the day but still had problems so I sent it out to get it done. They found some stuff I didnt see so all was good untill a couple months later when it started sticking again, the throttle plate was worn out so I tossed it all and got a new manifold and carb and couldnt be happier. I have the old 2 bbl if you need any parts off it other than the throttle plate that is

Bruce I may still have the one off mine if you want it I dont think I tossed it but not sure I would have to check. Let me know im not useing it and I think I still have the orig 2 bbl bracket if thats the one you have.

Im interested in this too because I have to change my dash pad also and figured I would change the speakers while there. I thought I saw somewhere that aftermarket speakers wouldnt work but not sure. Also ive never changed a dash pad before so am wondering about that too.

I talked to a glass place and the same rule of thumb applies for glass as paint scratches of you can run your fingernail accross it and feel it its to deep to get out I tried wet sanding and it didnt work I had a det ta deet monent when sanding on mine near the rear window now I have to live with it or change the window, Ill live with it for now.

It may be an o ring type but I would have to check the book for sure. But that tail shaft seal should come out of there, may have to use a some force or seal puller but should come out.

Welcome to the site

Is it possable you could have thrown a weight off the drive shaft especially if it something new . Has any other work been done to the drive line reciently? or suspension? possably rear springs and changed the drive shaft angle. Possably a dent in the drive shaft? bad u joint? could have thrown a weight off a brake drum also. Just a couple thoughts.

Oh wow that shot came out great Mike, both Mikes that is great picture and great launch

to the site

If I remember correctly there is the spring the metal washer and the bushing is kinda half round and made of some kind of fiber (plastic) something like that I would really have to look at mine to know for sure.

No I havent installed them not really sure what they are but I do know that the big block cars came from the facrory with 2 1/2 exhaust pipes from manifold to muffler and was a bit tight fitting but fit fine. Some pipe benders will kinda crush the pipe in a bit when tring to put to much bend in the bigger pipes.

I hope your using a mask while doing that at least a dust mask and of corse safty glasses

If it was easy everyone would do it

Maybe play around with the timing a bit if your not sure about the cam. Tweek it up or down a bit and see where it runs best.

If I remember correctly you dont have to remove the cover unless you want to drain the fluid (which I would suggest anyway) I belive the bearings are pressed on and the seals go on the axels before the bearings I dont think you have to remove the brake parts I think the backing plate will stay somewhat in place and I belive the axels are the same but I would make sure they go back in the same side. This is all on memory its been years since I did one of those.

Thats a new one to me also Darren thanks im going to have to look at that on mine. See we do learn something every day, Thanks

perportion valve is mounted to the frame I belive there may be a button on the end of it thay may need to be pushed in it may require some pressure. If the valve tripped it will do that. That was a real problem on the 80 era gm mid sized cars with 9 inch brakes.

I have the Kelly chargers on mine but they have been disccountied so I will have to look for something else when I get ready.

What ever you can get, just throw a price at him and see if he bites you can always lower it and it also depends how bad you want them gone. Used parts in good shape bring in pretty good cash but your not gonna get rich off them

Good point Tony. Put the ball end of a ball peen hammer in the bolt hole and tap the other side with another hammer to recess the holes back where they belong but not to far. You have to do it to every bolt hole.

If they over tightened the pan bolts it will ruin the new gasket.. a lot of places will put them together with air wrenches to save time but in most cases will overtighten them, just a thought

I think its called an a/c delet plate ive seen others on putting them on