stangeba

Good news! Thanks for letting us know. Perhaps the sunspot activity ruined all these flashers! ha ha We got 2" of snow, haven't driving my Monte in over three months! I better charge up the battery some day, I forgot at Christmas to do that. Bruce

Someone just had a T/S problem that turned out to be a bad flasher. If you haven't just changed anything, like dash or wiring related or added LED bulbs, I'd check the flasher (The OEM position is attached to and above the steering column, under the dash, NOT the easy one, in the fuse panel (that's the 4 Way flasher). Bruce

I have never adjusted anything related to the parking brake, but the rear shoes once in awhile when my pedal get's too low. Adjusting the rear shoes changes the downward travel of the parking brake significantly. I use my parking brake often. One or more of your cables may be binding and needs to be cleaned and lubricated to free it or them up. These are 40+ years old vehicles! Bruce

Perhaps these pictures of my 71 parking brake assembly will help. I don't remember any spring on this assemble that would help release the cables, that's done under the car and the springs on the brake shoes. Pic 1 pic 2 pic 3

Not the best pictures for linkage, but it may help. Note, I added cruise control. 71 Quadrajet 350 pics

I think, the carburetor base plate gasket is different depending on what Q-jet you have. I would ensure any replacement base plate gasket matches the one that was on your car originally. I think they may add two types in a rebuild kit one with 3 or 4 holes and one with one big hole, as I remember. Is the original one missing? Bruce base gasket picture

I assume it worked fine prior to removing the heater core. As with any electrical problem in a vehicle, I start at one end and work to the other like on a map. You must have a 12 Volt test light, check for power at the blower mtr, work back or start at the fuse, and work to the mtr. You have factory A/C, correct? I believe there is a relay on the outside A/C box area. Check for power there. You may also have a bad ground at the blower mtr itself. There is a blower mtr resister block inside (on my non A/C 71) that may have come unplugged, check that. Lot's of things to look for after a major repair but leaving something unplugged or unhooked is very likely. Good luck Bruce

When my engine was out (25+ years ago) I painted the firewall with a 2 part epoxy Corlar primer from DuPont that I don't believe is made anymore. It was too flat (too low of gloss) and had a green tint because of all the anti corrosion stuff in it. I should have painted over it with a slightly higher low gloss black but the engine had to go in and I never did 25+ years later. Inner fenders are plastic but the frame got the same primer then a specially flattened IMRON black for the topcoat. Things were so easy when I worked at DuPont automotive paint, the only thing I miss, free paint! Bruce

Mine (in my 71) are also very tight, don't remember for sure if they touch (I think they do) but I can't remove the bulbs W/O taking the assembly out from the front. Hope this helps, thought I had pictures but don't, darn. Bruce

You have A/C, I don't that may be why. Thanks, Bruce

Mikes correct, with a small amount of air, the dust boot expands and the piston can be pushed in fairly easily. The last "rebuilt pair I bought, one was drilled and a repair was done to the line threads. They work fine but I also bought a pair of powder coated new calipers from ?Rite stuff? at Hershey swap meet about 3 years ago. Just looked at them this past summer and noticed the bolts were metric! Now I'm not even sure they will fit. The 38 year old rubber hoses, was the root cause of my brakes pulling. Don't give up that core, what ever it is till your sure! Bruce

Steve, perhaps it was made in China like the bulbs I bought that were made in China and I had to throw them all out. The base was made way undersized (measured vs US made bulb) so they didn't fit tightly enough in the socket therefore didn't work all the time. JUNK!

Great news, thanks for letting us know for future reference. Bruce

I also think your rear cable/s at the drums are frozen / rusted. I have never needed to adjust the cables on my 71, ever. I wonder if you could free them up by working the parking brake, apply then release, over and over and over. It could also be the front section at the firewall........ Bruce

Are all of the bulbs standard type 12 volt bulbs? (Some of the bulbs from China are inferior) A rapid flash I believe indicates an overloaded or higher loaded circuit. The 4 Way handles more bulbs. Have you swapped the standard flasher with the 4 Way flasher to see what happens? I used to tow a small trailer and it flashed too quickly when attached. I would use my 4 Way flasher whenever the trailer was attached and it worked fine. There isn't a trailer harness spliced in, in the trunk, is there? Good luck, Bruce

I have a 71 with factory AMP gauge. My charging system didn't charge after I r&r'd the IP. Turns out the plug connecting the 12? wires to the printed circuit was not fully plugged in. I think it was the fault of my left ft speaker being a bit too large. With the AMP gauge all power goes through the gauge itself. This was a poor design as now all cars use a simple volt meter type gauge. See picture upper right of picture. Back of 71 IP with factory gauges Bruce

All I have is dum dum on the studs. Gee, that sounds a bit strange...

Mine never had them. I thought you may have also been talking about this piece. 70 SS rear bumper

Is this a 1970 only item because I don't think I have anything like that on my 71. There is a piece of rubber under the taillight lenses like a small bumper filler but that's not what your talking about, is it. Bruce

My 71 jack reads 1970 71 Monte Carlo UN 3965975 Bruce

I added the gauges (from a donor 71) to my 71 NON gauge car about 22 years ago. I ran the brown tachometer wire through the square hole that was covered by the black plastic grommet cover thing like in your picture. Three years ago I redid it, drilling a hole for the brown tachometer wire. Here are some pictures of the dash, heater core project that may help. The resister block looks to me like a repair replacement for the OEM resister wire that goes to the coil. Drilled hole for brn tach wire Pictures of dash htr core replacement and more

Try this" chevellestuff.net/

This is a good read, but I haven't done my car yet and my never bother to change. How to install bucket seats

You should write or call the company to tell them.

Get two so they match. Halogen bulbs are a bit brighter. True story circa 1973, had a professional auto mechanic working with me at a dealership, that was assigned to fix the front parking lights on a customers car. Said mechanic was trying to fix the problem for well over a half hour but no luck. He had test lights, volt ohm meters, wiring diagrams all over the place. I mentioned, perhaps both bulbs are just burnt out. He replied that I was just a dumb kid (1973 remember) and that was not possible. After another half hour he replaced one bulb, then the other, then drove the car out and never said a word to me about it. (Sorry, some old stories are fun to re-tell) Bruce