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OF112118 is the VIN on mine and trim tag is FL2124924 but I know it was built the 2nd week of September 1969 just before the work stoppage which coincided with the official launch announcement that was September 18/1969 and it is a Flint Michigan build and was sold in a St. Catherine's Ontario dealership in November/December just before Christmas that year. The VIN sticker is still on the drivers door as well as the windshield.

I would agree Larry, except for the fact that he is not selling it as such nor is it marketed at a nice CLONE to start from. Otherwise your right for the current money (depending on TRUE condition you can't see in pictures) it is at, could make a real nice clone example from it. But there are a lot of good candidates out there for that too and for less $ to start from. Scott

OK read this again and looked at all the photo's first if this is a 1970 MC it is not ALL original...or even if not stated it is sort of implied. 1. after market exhaust including headers and out the side of the rear......Really? not for me!!! 2. Steering wheel is from a 71 or not original (I have this same wheel in mine, nice but not the original one period correct is the term I think (nice way of saying not the original but something that will pass for by all but the concourse folks. 3. Rear diff is replaced, what else inside? Low mileage why change it? so not original either. 4. No chrome around the wheel wells, they would be there from factory fact they are missing is suspicious of the condition of the fenders. Plus all the other things mentioned by others here... Not to beat a dead horse but this not as advertised and that is the real crime here. And they don't care by the disclaimer they posted if they are told of what IS right.....typical slick/slimy used car sales tactics for sure!!!! Hold onto your wallet if you ever see this guy on the street....or visit his "dealership" Take the KY with ya is all I can say!!!! Scott

Larry!!! now come on....we all know these cars did not have the RS badges I am sorry to call a member out on this but that is pure fantasy. The rest...fine...but you went to far with the RS mention....just had to push it eh!!! LMAO!!!

I am so beside myself with this sad news. The mere thought of a possibility that my car MAY have a build sheet lurking somewhere almost had me going to the garage and start tearing it apart to find this elusive piece of the puzzle for these cars built in this plant. Oh WOA is ME!!!! <JK> Hey we are all human, some more then others...... But I still hold hope to find that 4 spd 454 SS 1970 MC convertible. There must be one out there that guy on e-bay said it and I don't think he would lie about that........

I having a Flint built car would also love to see the documents found to help to look for any traces (maybe even some torn corners of paper) in mine as never found any in the searches I have done. And was explained to me they did not put them in cars built in that plant. With this new revelation that one did come in a Flint built car I will need to contact Leonard Nimoy and get his IN SEARCH of team to help root out any long lost ones in mine. Great find for sure!!! Scott

What is in the car? Engine wise. Perhaps it had a BB and now has been removed, that would mean it has BB springs in the front which now with a smaller engine has it RAISED up more then it should? Does the back end sag in comparison? Just a thought. Scott

Jacob I would have to agree with the others advice. If your grandfather has rebuilt engines and knows what he is going you have a guide to help you along the way, and learn valuable lessons to use for a long time to come. And once you get your hands in there and do it (correctly) you will come to learn the noises it makes and can decipher any problems from just listening to it. You become more in tune with your mechanical beast to know when it's ill. Also it can be another bonding experience with your granddad and that is never a bad thing and memories you can share and keep for the rest of your life. As for engine specs, well there are a lot of good engine rebuilt KITS that are mild upgrades in power out there I'd go with one of these to get a solid engine. Later on if once this is working you can re-built it OR built up another engine using more performance parts mix and matched but for this build being your first MILD and semi Stock KITS are likely the way to go. This gets you all the parts needed to do the job and a solid foundation for your build. Good luck what ever you decide to do. Scott

Larry have you confirmed the seals in that one if it is as you say an original NOS piece the rubber o ring etc could be brittle? When you have it installed I would go to a local speed shop and get some WATER WETTER (pink bottle) and put it in when they change the antifreeze to try and lubricate those seals in it. They can be rebuild, but many just replace them now as it is cheaper to do so and get the core for one, but again I'd check the seals good when it is installed and use a good water pump lubricant like the one I mentioned. I have an empty bottle still and Karbelt sells it (see Cory on Simcoe St S.) Scott

My car when I bought it already had the metal Chevelle inner fenders and they looked factory IMO. So I didn't question it. I found out (from this forum) that the OEM were plastic. Even if I had a almost perfect Monte I'd go with Metal if I was having to put a set on as I think they are much better and obviously over time last WAY longer.... Scott

First if all these circuits are effected since they do not share a common + connection it could be a GROUND issue (or rather very likely it is) here is a simple TEST to do. Run a wire from the - terminal of the battery to the negative side of one of the lights (say the turn signal) and activate the turn signal. Anything? If so it is a ground issue (again most will think no but try this) if that works try one of the other circuits that is not working (same method). If it works then it is a chassis ground and harness. Check the high beams do they work? If not check the floor switch for them as these is a ground that runs through this switch for some odd reason? I maybe off but that is what I would look at since you've ruled out many other potential problems and trying to come up with what is common to all these (the ground side) Good luck hope you find it and it's an easy fix Scott

I will have to see if I can get a copy of it, very cool!!! Congrats Larry

Definately good information Definately....yes good information...definately....yes good

I have that spacer on mine. It is chrome plated and is about 2 1/4 inches long (mem?) it is a bit thicker walled so I would not use water pipe for it (IMO) but you could get a piece of black gas pipe of a smaller diameter cut to length and then use a small SS washer on either end of it. That should take up the slack and be strong enough for this application and not squish it and it is already black so won't even need to paint it Good luck with the install. Remember Pics or it didn't happen Scott

I would have to agree 20+ years and either they come out easy or they don't at all and you will need plan B. And if you break it off in there..well that is more of a problem. Just watched Welding Tips N Tricks guy Jody welding on top of an exhaust stud (on the exhaust manifold not the head) for get a bung so they could get a set of vice grips on to loosen and remove them. He got luck with the heating cycles and got it out not too bad. Some times they just won't budge. I think the cut the heads off and then some well placed heat and pliers idea is the best..IMO. Good Luck Scott

That is actually not true any more as much as we would all like to believe it. Not that I don't love the sound and rumble of a good working V8 with headers and a mild cam at idle. But that statement simply isn't true anymore nice sentiment, but they are getting ridiculous numbers out of less than a 3 L engine now and the reliability of those is way up. Also the difference in parts from some engines to another is way different so you have to couple what you want for what your budget it. A Pontiac engine will cost you 2x (or more) to build up the same as a Chevy or even an Olds engine as just one example. Also where you live and ability to get parts readily available and local (as sometimes we all can't wait for UPS/Fed Ex to deliver But as I said still love the BB cars and the sound/vibrations. Scott

Well it is Bruce, as that is where the HEI on mine gets power. And it is the fuse to the right? that it is connected to (or is that left...LOL) anyway my car died on me in the middle of the road in early MAY and I had to find out why it would not start but would of course turn over. I checked and yup that fuse was blown. I had the good sense to put in a few 10Amp glass fuses in the glove box and got it started up as soon as I replaced it (as could see it was blown) So that fuse on the (I will have to edit this after I look again..LOL) (right) I will say for now) is what gives it power. It is switched power that part your right. Scott

Yes your becoming a POST HORE Hope you get the LEAKIES fixed nothing worse then finding new puddles under the car each time you pull away. Only thing worse would be finding them as you get out of bed Oh and I have a chrome neck not put on mine yet so I think I'll wait till I get the new hoses etc. But I still have the old valve covers on mine thanks for the heads up too on buying the chrome cheap o ones that Crappy tire sells. I will wait to get a better fitting and LEAK FREE set. Scott

Geesh what is it with you and clear coat? It's like the father in My Big Fat Greek Wedding and the Windex...LOL...cure for everything... Sorry just kidding Larry...it is a good idea just had to bust your chops a bit.. Don't want ya getting a FAT HEAD now or you won't fit through the garage door

Nice. But having done it..I'd paint it....but that is because I see all that work ahead..LOL...but guess you can polish it and then later PAINT it for a change??? Get out the Absorbine Jr. your gonna need it

Well I finally got the passenger side mirror I bought a while ago installed today. It looks GREAT and matches the OEM on the LEFT side. Now I REALLY have to get a new one of those..LOL Sorry no pics yet and since it is a basic install didn't bother with a how to for it. But a piece of masking tape, a ruler and a drill bit pretty much covers it. Pics soon but backing out of the garage just got a lot easier Scott

I agree with the light saber metaphor. But you know there is one problem with those gauges and how bright they are! If you (or when you) get stopped for speeding at night how will you ever say you couldn't read the gauges and the car is faster then you thought.... Nice looking setup....LOVE the colour. Mine is all GREEN which to me is RETRO after driving everything from Orange, to Blue to that orange and blue from my Mazda 3 the green takes me back to my old cars of my early days of driving...but the blue is way cool...congrats on the mod.....I am sure you will be very happy with it. Scott

There is a flat plastic tube that the wiring from the front to the rear runs through under the carpet on the drivers side. If you look where the back seat is you should see it popping out to the LEFT (as you are looking ahead from the trunk lid) That should then go over to the LEFT trunk lid hinge and then up behind the trunk lid and to the light. But I don't have the trunk electric remote lock on mine.....yet It seems the only logical place for it and from my old 84 Grand Prix this was the way it ran up on it so GM doesn't change things for eons so I imagine all the same. Scott

Tell them that it is part of the ejection seat like the one in the James Bond Austin Martin DB4 and also runs the deflection shield in the rear and the changing license plate for secret missions. Dumb looks but some will wonder...