kc8oye

and the next evolution going to 64cc vortec heads takes me to 9.75:1 which I think is tolerable on pump gas... maybe..

yeah..b ut then it's not the FGMCC's calculator...

i thought sport mirrors automaticly meant you had both sides!?

Let's hope his axle can

i could probably do it too if someone told me what language to do it in

double humps are now-a-days outdated junk.(I don't mean that to be disrespectful... They were the best in their day.) If that ZZ4 doesn't already have Vortec heads, they are your best bet. $800 for a pair of iron heads that flow like mad. but you will need a special intake and new valve covers. I have finally learned what the deal is with vortec heads and intakes "vortec" heads from 1986 to 1995 are not true "vortec" heads evne tho they carry the name. the only difference is the angle of the two center bolts which can be accounted for by slotting the old style manifold. True vortec heads, 1996 and later are the GOOD vortec heads, as their intake ports are 0.25" taller, and only have 8 bolts, instead of 12. so unless your old school intake has a lot of meat around the top of the intake ports, it's not likely it will seal against a true vortec head. all 86 and later use the 4 'center bolt' design valve covers.

A guy on another forum explained how to calculate static compression for my engine.. so I figured I would share since it's simple and easy to follow My pistons are SpeedPro L2256F +.030 here's their info from summitracing.com Bore (in) 4.000 in. Piston Style Flat top, with four valve reliefs Piston Material Forged aluminum Compression Distance (in) 1.563 in. Piston Head Volume (cc) +6.10cc Let's just go through it for the benefit of others reading here. A 350 bored +0.030" will have a bore of 4.030" and a stroke of 3.480". Using our cubic inch formula of .7854 times bore times bore times stroke times 16.387 = 727.4 cc's. The stock 350 crank will have a radius of 1.740" (half the stroke). The stock rod length will be 5.703". Your pistons have a compression height of 1.563". If we add up these values, we find a stack of 9.006". Now, given that the nominal block deck height of a 350 is 9.025", that would theoretically put the piston crown at 0.019" below the deck at TDC. We would use the same formula to figure the piston deck height volume. .7854 times 4.03 times 4.03 times .019 times 16.387 = 3.97 cc's. Let's say we have 67 cc chambers in the heads. And we know that the pistons you are using have 6.1 cc's in the crown. 727.4 in the cylinder 67 in the heads 3.97 in the piston deck height 6.1 in the piston crown 9 in the gasket (generic 0.040" gasket) total- 813.47 total less cylinder- 86.07 divide larger by smaller = 9.45:1 static compression ratio.

my Dell laptop came with WiFi built it.. and it just used the Vista networking and it worked great. I just can't explain the on-again, off-again nature of this beast.. if it doesn't work, I should be able to fix it and get it going again.. but i dunno..

the factory chromed the entire dash then masked it off and painted it black. if you scratch an original dash, you will find the chrome under the paint

strange strange strange... it's been working great for nearly a month now. and then right back to being stupid. that other wireless network has changed SSID's and Channel, so I'm guessing we were interfering with each other... i just went through a long episode of not being able to establish a connetion to the router.. nearly 2 days.. i reset the router, changed every setting I could think of.. nothing.. the software would turn green saying it connected to the router, then where you would expect the DHCP information to show up, it would drop everything and go back to 'scanning' just out of curiosity's sake, I disabled the software that came with the NetGear adapter, and used XP's network connection manager. it immeidately told me it couldn't connect to the network.. then after a couple more tries, it DID connect and is holding fairly decent transfer rates... so no I'm REALLY not sure if it's my adapter/software or the router *sigh* at least it won't matter much longer.

if a cam is listed as a "hydraulic flat tappet" there is no reason I couldn't actually run solid lifters if i wanted too right? i'm assuming when they say it's a hyd. flat tappet, it's profiles are somewhat mild and probably won't rev high enough to require the lighter solid lifters? and then the next question is, if I ran solid lifters on a hyd. cam would i really gain much in terms of rpm, or would the cam profile probably limit me before the rpms where the different lifters would make a difference? this is more of a hypothetical question so i don't have any specific cams in mind.

you have to have the key to remove the glove box lock. But that's all i can remember right now.

the all black look is nice.. i used a "Silver Leafing Pen" from Krylon to redo my silver.

i've never worried about that.. i do one bolt up, then the other, but i dont' torque them down until they're both snug.. otherwise you could crack the aluminum housing.

you have to slide it up.. it's not easy. you may need to remove the plate that is still there. the trick to making it stay put is the bolt on the front of the engine. you have to take that short bolt out and replace it with a really long bolt, it will bear down on the rod (FINGER TIGHT ONLY!) and hold it in place while you replace the pump, then take the bolt back out, put the short one back in (or you will have a HUGE mess) and bob's your uncle. if the rod won't slide back far enough, you may need to bump the engine over once or twice to get the lobe on the camshaft in a different place.

al.. We can always set you up with a twin turbo small block to spank those big block's.. ask Eli what his monte runs in the 1/4 mile 11's letting of at the 1/8th mile...

time to buy a kit and cc them!

just wait till they make the mistake of sharing some compromising information mike...

ah well now if it's a stick it might be a wee bit more important to keep the clutch clean.. for an automatic.. not so much.

Call Leo and ask him about his reconditioned fenders, it's basicly your only choice. nobody repops steel ones yet.

there is honestly nothing up there for anything to get into.. the only possible problem might be getting a rock stuck between the flexplate or torqueconverter and the surrounding block or bell housing... leo got a rock jammed up in his starter I think it was. i've never had one on my monte. .been driving it for 6 years and around 50,000 miles with no problems.

i wouldn't worry that much about it. I've never had one on my monte and never had any issues... in fact, leo is the only guy i've ever talked to, who has had a problem. speaking of Which, leo has some used ones available.. otherwise just about any parts catalog should sell them, they're a standard piece. some of the repop catalogs carry them too.. with a hefty price.

that's what we're here for

Welcome to the club. Originally Posted By: Red Green's Man Prayer I'm a man, and I can change, if I have to, I guess