kc8oye

davey.. I've never been inside a 400. but it looks like the TH400 doesn't have an external to the case accumulator for 2nd gear like the others do.

montefox.. gotta clean all the crud out, and find the end of it.. use a small curved pick is the best way.. once you get the end out.. get a small screwdriver under it and work your way around.. it's not easy.

yeah everything will work.. you just need to change the the 'shift gate' i swapped in a 700r4, and the only real mod I had to do was have the drive shaft shortened. now I use a bolt-in crossmember (I don't use the rubber isolators) but the holes were in the right spot, I just bolted it to the trans.. wiggled it a bit and the holes lined right up for me. the factory shift linkage from the column will work just fine even with out the 'shift gate' mods.. especially if it's worn out at all speedo cable will work just fine, cooler line will work just fine. just make sure you get the right bracket to support that TV cable. You may need to add a kit to correct the TV geometry.. I know the holley's need it for the 700r4.. dunno about the 200 with an eddy

it covers the accumulator davey it's the cover that goes in the end of that cylinder looking thing sticking out the side of the trans.. the accumulator softens the 1-2 shift. the round thing just behind the dipstick (This is a TH350) 700r4:

Figured I better throw mine in there too mild small block, long tube headers, twin 2.5" pipes (no crossover) Dual Dynomax UltraFlow mufflers, full 2.25" tail pipes to the rear bumper. and before you laugh at the driving.. I WAS NOT DRIVING!! :>

hahahah it sounds that simple. you will have fun with it I'm sure...

I was thinking more along the lines of holding the throttle wide open...

it requires a special tool, or some inginuity.. you have to press the cover in, and hold it in, while you pry the round retaining ring out of the inside.

what kind of carb? the holley? you may need to turn the fast idle screw down. it's on the passenger side, you have to open the thottles all the way by hand to get to it. (do it with the engine off)

pull the four bolts and lean down on it.. it will pop off.

can you take another pic of that line from the vale cover to the carb..but standing on the driver's side of the car? that looks like someone tried to home-brew a hot air choke or something. but i wanted to know where the vacuum line on the holley carb went. not your qjet

wow.. no wonder that poor qjet didn't work well.. it's been the victim of some serious home brew engineering!

If there are two wireless networks operating with the same SSID will that cause problems? I just noticed while having problems connecting, that two networks popped up with the same SSID (2Wire113) one was 60% the other was 38%.. I'm wondering if the neighbors are causing my computer to have issues trying to figure which network is which?

funny enough it's been working for 3 days now with no issues.. i'm wondering if it is someone around here with a cordless phone or something?!?? the only other thing I did try.. was I moved the antenna slightly and laid it down horizontally.. the router lays on it side .. and being a licensed ham.. I wondered if the there might be some polarization issues with the signal.. I have noticed that my signal is consistently better.. the little icon is always green... so it's staying above 50% all the time now.. (used to almost always be yellow)

i never had float issues with my qjet. I just set it the one time while it was apart and that was that.

wear a hair net...

uhhh there is problem number one. There is no way to be sure the float levels are right unless the carb is installed and the engine is running. start the engine.. let it warm up and come off fast idle. remove the float window screw while the engine is running... if fuel comes pouring out.. the floats are set too high. if you don't want to do it with the engine running, you can do it holley's way which is problaby safer, but it takes a little longer. Please read this, the part you are interested in, is in the bottom left corner, the "wet float method" Holley's float setting instructions if the engine is off, and you remove the site plug (don't loose the gasket under it) the fuel should be right at the bottom of the hole... and if you rock the car gently should just barely splash out. what you described initially suggests you have a float setting problem.

btw.. would you describe for me the process you used to determine your float levels were set correctly? I just wanna make sure you did them right :>

no, because there is no fitting on the qjet that you need. this fitting screws into the intake. orginally your brake booster line screwed into the bottom of the carb.. your holley doesn't do that, so now you have to find a new home for that line. This is how I chose to add an extra vacuum line to my engine so that it looked tidier.. I drilled and tapped the intake and added another fitting using AN fittings.... on my car, I do not have a vacuum line to the transmission (700r4) and I don't have a charcoal canister (removed) so i have only 4 vacuum lines to deal with Power Brakes PCV Distributor Air Cond. Controls the larger chrome square fitting is for the power brakes, because of my carb and intake setup, I don't have room for any other fitting there. the fancy stainless steel line there feeds my Air conditioning controls. the distributor runs off manifold vac. from the fitting at the front/bottom of the carb. PCV uses the large fitting in the passenger side of the carb.

yes, exactly what I'm saying.. Call Leo.. he has them available. 810-334-4162 you can also make what you need out of hardware store fittings.. like I did back in the early days left smaller hose goes to the transmission.. large hose to the right goes to my brake booster.

in your picture above where you outlined the fitting you had questions about.. There is another rubber line connected sticking out the side of the carb right by the float level window.. where's that going? that nipple is where the smaller of the two charcoal canister lines needs to go. if that line is for the distributor, just add a t-fitting. the larger one would go to the fitting you outlined.

btw.. your throttle hookup is right, except you need to go to the parts store and get a 'kick down stud assortment kit' ... most places that sell holley stuff should have it.. i think it runs about $11.. that will let you hook your kick down cable up so your trans will downshift when you step on it.

the first two questions have already been answered.. as for the charcoal canister.. that's a real pain to hookup.. unlesss you have to pass a state inspection with your car, I wouldn't worry about hooking it back up. There are two lines for the charcoal cansister.. the smaller one is the 'control' line.. that goes to a PORTED vacuum source which will be a small nipple high on the front of the carb. the larger of the two needs to go to manifold vacuum which would tee in one of those lines going to that fitting at the back of the manifold.

yeah.. with your new carb, that' where your mystery line from the brake booster will need to connect. there should also be a large 3/8" fitting on the carb.. either in the back, or on the passenger side.. that's where your PCV valve would attach.

i've rebuilt 350's and 700's in the benefit of a classroom setting with a teacher and the correct tools.. I stil say a 700r4 is not a good trans to learn on. Do a 350 first.. get a feel for the basics.. then tackle the more complicated 700. it only takes a human hair to jam up a valve in a 700r4 and smoke the whole thing. th350's can run with a pound of sand in the valve bodies they don't care lol.