Mike Brichta

Well I have now had the engine back in the car for about 3 weeks now and have put around 150 miles on the car since the rebuild. The first thing I did when I got it installed was take it for a long drive. I got on a major highway and ran it for over an hour at around 70 mph non stop. The car ran great and had no issues at all so I guess I can say I am happy with the outcome. Looking back on the entire experience I don't think I could ask for much more from GM. They rebuilt while replacing any damaged parts without too many questions and did it all in around 1 week. I paid more for the GM engine because I wanted the warranty and in my case it was well worth it. Without it I would have been screwed. It's kind of like any other kind of insurance. If you never need it you think you never should have had it but if you do need it someday it is well worth it. This is my second GM crate motor and the other one is running great after 2 years. If the problem with the zz454 was that the distributor had the wrong gear on it I can't blame the dealer for that. All I want the dealer to do is make it right, which they did. So far I have not been able to find anyone who has had my same distributor gear issue that I had so I have to think mine was just a fluke and now it is fixed. Mike

Anyone?

I am considering replacing the outer rocker panels on my 70 monte. I see that Tamraz and Goodmark have the panels. Has anyone done this and are these replacement panels any good? Anything else I should know before starting? Tamraz: ======= http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-72-GM-Body-Outer-Rocker-Panels-AMD-New-Tooling-/390221819487?fits=Year:1970|Model:Monte%20Carlo&hash=item5adb086e5f&item=390221819487&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr Goodmark: ========= http://www.ebay.com/itm/Goodmark-Rocker-Panel-Driver-Side-Outer-GM-A-Body-Except-EL-Camino-Ea-/370641529339?fits=Year:1970|Model:Monte%20Carlo&hash=item564bf4e9fb&item=370641529339&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr Thanks!! Mike

I thought the same thing. I would rather have a good engine mechanic go through the entire engine piece by piece and check everything out rather than another engine from an assembly line. The service manager actually told me that the mechanic really enjoyed himself working on a big block engine rather than a northstar engine. If all works out ok I was thinking of contacting the owner of the dealership and letting him know how happy I was with the end result of the entire process but driving to the dealership with the car is a great idea. Thanks!!

Update: Friday 09/07/12 The GM Service Manager called today to tell me that the engine was ready for pickup or delivery. Their engine technician pulled the entire engine apart piece by piece and said the reason for the failure was because the wrong gear was used on the distributor. They determined that by comparing the distributor gear with the cam and they did not mesh correctly. They then decided that the engine could be repaired rather than replaced. It was taken completely apart and the following pieces were replaced: main bearings, rod bearings, cam and cam bearings, oil pump and distributor gear, seals, gaskets. Everything else was cleaned and inspected for wear and tolerances before it was put back together. The engine would still be covered under the original factory warranty. They will deliver it to my house for free on Monday (about 45 minutes away). What should I be looking for when it is dropped of? =================================================== - I asked them for a complete work order so I can prove what was done and what was replaced. - I asked them to tell me what "break-in" process I should use so I do not void the warranty. Any other suggestions/comments? I have to say that I thought GM handled this pretty well. It started out slowly but they completely rebuilt the engine in about 1 week and all was covered under the GM warranty. What are your thoughts? Was the warranty worth it? What should I have done differently? Thanks!! Mike

I just installed my new mini high-torque starter that Murphy recommended in an earlier post and it works great. I really like the sound of it cranking the engine. It doesn't sound at all like the older style starter and seems to have lots of power for my 383 engine (10.5 to 1 compression). I checked all of the clearances in the instructions and did not have to make any adjustments or use any shims they supplied. I may get another one as a spare. Mike

Update: 09/01/12 I dropped the engine off at the dealer on Wed (08/29). He also wanted everything that would make the engine run just in case they wanted to start it. I'm not sure why they would need to do that but I gave him the carb, fuel pump, starter, dist with wires, etc. I showed both the Service Manager and the Parts Manager the magnet I had that was full of metal fragments I got from the oil filter oil and I showed him the dist. with the stripped gears. He said they would let me know what the next step was. I hope to hear something in the next week since it shouldn't take long to see it can't be repaired with all of that ground up metal in there. Mike

Some of the mini starters out there have an "inline" bolt pattern and I thought our cars needed a "staggered" bolt pattern. Am I wrong on this? Thanks!! Mike

Update: 08/27/12 I pulled the engine on Sunday and have it sitting in the original crate ready for the GM dealer to tell me to drop it off. Since I had to remove the oil filter to put the engine back into the crate I poured the oil from the filter into a clean container and stuck a clean magnet into the oil. I swirled it around and few times and took it out to see what it would find. The magnet is covered with what I would call powdered metal. This is what I expected to find since the teeth on the distributor gear were worn down over time till they just broke. I still could not figure out what actually caused the problem. After seeing the metal on the magnet I will definitely be asking for a new motor. We will see what the dealer has to say. I will be calling him today to arrange an engine drop off date/time. Mike

Update: 08/23/12 After 4 weeks, I managed to get the GM dealer to allow me to pull the motor from the car and deliver it to them to look at. They will then examine it (probably try to fix it) and see where we go from there. Before they will touch it they requested: - copy of engine receipt - copy of distributor receipt - pics of car (to show it isn't being raced) - pics of engine in the car - pics of the VIN - pics of the dash showing the mileage - pics of the missing distributor gear - anything else I can think of I will keep the group posted on the progress just in case any of you need help with a GM engine warranty. My pain, your gain!! Mike

I found a 70 Chevelle 12-bolt 2.73 posi rear for sale and was wondering what it is worth these days. The guy says it runs perfect and is complete from drum to drum. He said he just removed it from a runing car. Thanks!! Mike

Update: Since having the problem on 07/21 the car has been sitting for some direction from GM as to how they want to handle the situation. I have not touched the car or engine since I had the problem. So far I have spoken to several Parts Managers and Service Managers from (2) different GM dealers and am still waiting for them to decide what they are going to do. The good news is that I finally convinced one of the Service Managers to argue with the GM "decision makers" to allow me to pull the engine and deliver it to him for the next steps. I don't want him to store the car and he doesn't want it in his way either. Once they have the engine they will decide whether to fix it or replace it. The bad news is that it has now been around 4 weeks and nothing has been decided by GM. I checked back with the Service Manager (nice guys who agrees with me on all issues) yesterday and he has not gotten the OK to proceed. So I can just keep politely pushing the issue with him so we can move forward. Lesson #1: This is not a quick process and GM is not prepared or anxious to help with anyone in my situation. I will keep the group posted on my progress. Thanks!! Mike

Finally some good news. That's great!! Walking around and talking, that is great progress. Way to fight Rob !!!! Mike

Yes I used the exact GM distributor that GM insists you use on that engine. It already has the GM correct steel melonized hardened gear on it. When I was ordering I did not want to take any chances about voiding the warranty by using anything other than what they insisted be used. Ironic isn't it? Mike

Hey Rob, I have been following your status for the past several days and am hoping you get through this real soon. We are all pulling for your speedy recovery. Lots of prayers coming your way ...

Let's hope so. I'm now waiting for the Parts Dept. Manager from the dealership where the engine was purchased to get back from vacation and let me know what needs to be done. I don't want to pull the engine to mess with anything until they give me the ok. What worries me is where are all of the pieces from the distributor gear? I would think that at least the pan should be pulled and cleaned just to be sure. And what happens to the warranty now that all of this has happened? We shall see ...

Hey Brian, My 72 gave me problems for years before I found the problem. I replaced the starter, solenoid, put on a heat shield, etc. but nothing seemed to fix the problem. I was just about ready to order the high torque mini starter as my next step. Sometimes it worked perfect but 1 out of every 10 it had a hard time turning over. It turned out to be the small wire that ran from the harness to the solenoid. The end looked great and the outside of the wire looked great but the inside of the wire was all corroded. I replaced the wire from the solenoid up into the harness as far as I could or wanted to go and never had the problem again. Then I did the same procedure on the rest of my cars so I would never have the problem on any car I own. It is a cheap fix and took me a long time to find it so you may want to give it a try. I also used heavier gauge wire then the factory used and I always solder my wire connections and ends. Good luck!! Mike

Engine Warranty Update - After three days of phone calls and visits my request went as follows: - the Parts Dept. then to - the Service Dept. then to - the Service Dept. Manager then to - the Parts Dept. Manager then to - the Service Dept. Director (who is on vacation until Monday) I'm not panicking yet because no one has denied my request but am starting to get a little nervous. The only info that they were able to share with me was that "It would take a little while because it is not a fast process". I would be happy if they just told me I was OK to pull the engine so I could start the work but without some direction from them I'm not sure I should pull it yet. Looks like the car will have to sit for a while. Good thing I have a few more to drive while I wait. Mike

Hey Guys, Just a quick update on my problem. I went out tonight and checked the oil pump and it turns nicely and even pumps up oil pressure if I turn it with a screwdriver fast enough. The pump does not appear to be the problem. Hmm. So if the distributor works great (except for the missing teeth) and the oil pump works great then what caused this problem? Would that suggest the cam or some kind of a timing gear problem? I guess I may never know what the problem is/was unless GM pulls the engine apart and looks for it. Well I think I have enough info for my trip tomorrow to the local GM dealer (Scott Chevrolet). I will let you know how I make out. Mike P.S. Mike, still want to swap problems???

Hey Mike, I'll fix your problem if you fix mine??? lol ... Check the radiator cap. As long as the engine was no running hot you should be ok. Mike

Thanks for the responses. I did use the exact GM distributor recommended for these engines because they require a "melonized" gear and I didn't want to take any chances in case something like this happened. When I get home tonight I plan on trying to see if the oil pump still turns. Maybe that will tell me something about what happend. Mike

Hey Guys, Need some help/advice on a problem with my GM ZZ454. The engine was installed in 11/2010 and only has around 1000 miles on it and has performed without any issues until now. Here is what happened: I was driving to Super Chevy on Saturday to meet up with some folks from the club and to deliver a rear hitch and was cruising along at around 65 mph. All of a sudden the engine started backfiring and just shut off. I pulled to the shoulder, opened the hood and looked for any obvious problems. Everything was perfect. No noticeable problems, no smoke, not overheating, no gas leaks, belts and hoses all ok, etc. I looked underneath and nothing leaking and all looked perfect. I tried turning the engine over and it cranked fast but behaved like the timing was 180 degrees off. IT popped and backfired some more so I knew I was dead in the water and had it flat bedded back home. I still went to Super Chevy but was 3 hours late but still delivered the hitch and met some great Monte club members. On Sunday I pulled the distributor out and 1/2 of the teeth in the drive gear are gone. The distributor turns like new with no issues. The end that turns the oil pump is undamaged and the drive gear pin is perfect and does not slip. I should also mention that the engine was fully assembled when I got it and the distributor was a new GM one recommended for that engine and purchased at the same time. Questions: - Any idea of what could have happened? - I'm thinking the engine is toast because the cam must be messed up and there have got to be metal pieces in there somewhere. Any thoughts? - Anyone deal with the GM warranty on an engine? I'm going to take my story and distributor to a GM dealer on Tuesday along with all of my receipts and see what they say. Any ideas/suggestions/thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I know some other members have the same engine so I will let you know how I make out. Depressed, Mike

Sure wish I would have decided to hang on to my Dad's 57 Cadillac Eldorado Brougham. Only 400 some made!! It was low mileage and in perfect condition and he wanted to give it to me for free but I was just getting married and had no place to store it. Crap ...

I've been using a product called Chassis Saver. Similar to POR-15 but nearly as expensive. I've used it on the frames and backsides of fenders, inside doors, floors, etc. I really like to finish and it repels just about everything. I can spray it a lot easier than POR-15 also. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHASSIS-SAVER-1G...ies&vxp=mtr Mike

Sounds like $150 delivered would be a great deal, right? I better make some more room in the attic ... Thanks!! Mike