D.E

Today replaced the resistor with a brand new one.Also replaced the blower motor with a new one.The Master switch tan and green wires still get warm to touch.Ran the car with a/c on for 10 minutes or so and the wires were warm to touch.Fan speed switch was not warm.The high speed relay has noe came in yet so no high speed fan.But 12 volts going to relay.Hate to keep asking about this but i don't want another fire under dash.The master switch has a set of points sanded the a liittle also today.

Replaced resistor and the wires going to the master switch is still getting hot to touch with the fan on.Could the fan motor bee the problem. Still no high speed fan.Going to replace relay and fan motor .I think that is everything that has to do with the fan control.

Went back out and I can't get a high speed on fan fuse is not blown at relay.Got the other 2 resistors to replace the ones on the car.Not good with meters what draw is it suppose to be.Thanks Joe for help.If this keeps up I will change to a Vintage Air unit.Hate to not keep it factory since I've bought it new in 71.And it will freeze you out

Got the wiring finished and vacuum line finished today but the master switch amd the brown wire unit still gets warm after a little while running the fan with engine off.Just had the blower motor running and wires to switch were warm.Not going to put dash pad back on till I solve this problem.Does anyone have their dash pad off to test the switch and wires getting warm.Thanks for help

Thanks I will hope to get it finished today maybe.I had converted to 1 wire so no voltage regulator.But will check the relay and the blower motor.Got to splice some of the vacuum lines on dash controls

The brown wire on master switch it goes to the fuse panel,correct.It has a connector it plugs into behind the speedometer hsg.The one on mine is melted and that nis the only wire I don't know where it goes.Thanks foe help.Can you get the resistor for the a/c box?Got the switch wired and back in also the other wires that were melted that were above the radio going to the pass side of dash.Thank you again for help.

Thanks I heard that could be a problem with overheating of switch.Will check it out

where is the resistor that goes to the blower motor and to the fan switch.Got the switch last week will start to replace burned wires this week.Thanks for help

My new switch will be here Tuesday sometime. So I'll work on it when it gets here.Have to check the vacumn hose they got a little hot.

Thanks I will look at it when i get the switch.The brown wire from the master is also melted ,Got the upper vent from Summit but they didn't have a switch.Ordered it from OPGI.

Has anyone had this problem.This is the 2nd one that has done thjs.But this time it caught on fire had to put out flame under dash pad.Melted the upper a/c vent.I've owned this car since new and the 1st time it just melted the plug and the wires a little but this time it really caught fire.Also I need the wiring diagram of the color wires to the switch itself.Thanks for help

Have the tabs and it doesn't fit down between speed cluster and glove box where it sticks out.About a 1 inch or so.repop junk

Got a new padded dash a few years ago and now my org is finally starting to crack but the one I got will ot fit worth a darn.In the center it will not go down to the metal part of the dash beside the radio it is 1/2 in off sticks up will no go down.Maybe it was a first design junk.Anyone have this problem,May have to but another one

Bought all my stuff from Classic Auto Air and used the org dash and evaporator.But you better get the right condenser for 134a.My Black 71 cools like the old r12 did.Here it has been 100- to 105 everyday and it cools fine

Put the org back on it has 1 small crack on drivers side speaker.It also stripped the pad where the screws go after the first time to get it fit.Wasted this money on it

I bought a repop dash pad and it does not fit at all.Anyone else had this problem

Found 1 under back seat and 1 under frt seat back when I took off to redo interior

When I redid mine I had to replace the panel before the truck lid and I made studs out of nail heads and turned them on my lathe and welded from back side.A lot of trouble but I didn't have anything else at the time to do.Did the same on sail panel where the pins broke off.But mine was a vinyl top from the factory.

Check NAPA they have some nut stuff

Mine has developed a roaring in rear end at all speeds.Changed axle brgs and still has singing.Can hear it at 60 and same tone when going up or coming don speed.The axle hsg had rust hanging on top when I pulled the axles out might have got to otehr brgs.Never a dull minute when you think you are finally finished with rebuild

It has to do with size of tubes and I think square inchs in condenser but call Classic and they can tell you.Great to work with.But you do have to recalibrate the poa valve for 134a.I used to use Freeze12 but can't get it anymore so I went to redo everything durning rebuild.

You have to replace the condenser and the POA valve has to be calibrated for 134a to get the proper cooling with 134a.The size of coil is the problem.Got all my stuff from Classic Auto air and it cools just like r12.Black on black in 95 degree weather here in Ga.The guys at Classic in Fla really helped me

Thanks I don't remember it ever doing that since it was new in 71.But will just live with it

It is a repop tank.will look into it don't like it to build up pressure.As with most repop stuff JUNK now days

Went for a ride to recharge A/C and had to get gas and had lot of pressure when removed gas cap and tank made a bong.It is org cap suppose to be vented I guess.But it is a new tank.Never had this since I had this car since new.Thanks for help