BowtieThunder Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 Well I pulled the motor today and found i had a major problem.Not sure if I had a bearing failure or not but I found a lot of copper material in pan so I pulled caps to see what went wrong and it just created more questions than answers.All the rod bearings looked fine except for bearing material in them, but here is the kicker main bearings 2,3&4 all spun.Havent a clue as too why but it happened.Hopefully I will know more once I get the mootr tore down ------------------ Paul Carillon 71 ProStreet 454 My Web Page: www.carillon.net/sschevy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grease Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 Paul...sorry to hear you have problems . i hope you can figure the cause so it doesnt come back again . mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busmechanic Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 That Hurts for sure. Line Bore off? Seems like a pump failure would have gotten the rods too. [This message has been edited by busmechanic (edited 11-02-2003).] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 at least the racing season is over.....hopefully we can all be finished with our project by spring! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 Paul, did this happen just after the Nos was installed? What crank are you using? Studs or bolts in the caps? Do 2-4 main caps have side play in the saddles? I have seen factory steel cranks flex in blocks with bolt retained caps and wipe out the center 3 mains before. Nos makes this happen faster. 99% of the time if the bearings fail the rods go first since they get oil after the mains, if the rods looked good then it sounds like either crank flex or block shift. Block shift can happen when high cyl pressures are present,I.E. high compression,NOS,blower and high rpms are turned. Rotating weight and rpm can wipe the mains in a BB also if both are high. Don [This message has been edited by Rice Racing1 (edited 11-04-2003).] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowtieThunder Posted November 4, 2003 Author Share Posted November 4, 2003 Hi Don, Nope never got a chance to use the NOS, found the problem before hand which was good.Saddle's fit snug when installed, seem a little looser now but dont seem to have any side play in them.Its a Factory Steel crank .030-.030 4 bolt main with bolts.The main bearings I could spin around the crank and removed them from the 3 journals that spun but not Rod bearing failures or or any that looked like they weree ready to go.Have only been turning the motor 6600 of late... might see an occasional 7600 in the burnout or if I miss a shift but thats all. ------------------ Paul Carillon 71 ProStreet 454 My Web Page: www.carillon.net/sschevy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 Paul, have the crank checked very closely, I think maybe you have some flex or a slight journal alignment problem. The old small journal SB's used to do the same thing with a factory crank! The factory cranks aren't as strong as most people think. Mostly due to poor counter weight design and placement and "soft" steel. Crank flex almost alway beats the three center bearings out! A 5140 or 4340 crank as lite as you can afford will hold up way better, stay away from the 4130 cranks as that steel wears very fast even when nitrided!! Check out www.scatcrankshafts.com. The lightened profiled 4340 scat crank is twice as strong a factory crank but 9 or 10 pounds lighter. If you look at eagle plan on having it turned 10 from the get go, most of their cranks are too tight or tapered on all the journals. If they could only cut the cranks as well as they do the rods they would have it made. Check the block and crank have the block line bored with some arp studs not bolts, put a good crank back in and go. I just feel from exp over the years the crank and cap bolts are what got you give the extra info you posted in response. Don [This message has been edited by Rice Racing1 (edited 11-04-2003).] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 Rice, I just LOVE reading your posts. It's nice having you on our side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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