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driveshaft trials


kc8oye

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well after bolting in the 700r4, and trying to find a driveshaft at leo's that was short enough, and his shortest one being 1/2" too long... I found a local machine shop that could shorten my old one for me. Cost me $61 to have them take 3-1/2 inches out. I could have had it balanced for another $80 but I'm not going to do that just yet. (If I have problems I will)

 

I didn't relize they needed the ujoint caps to machine it, (left them at home for safe keeping) so I just had them put a new ujoint in the back for another $20 smile

 

it was problaby cheaper then driving home to get the old caps!

 

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CHHHHHHHA CHIIIIIIIIIIIIING!!!!

 

FINALLLY!!!! _SOMTHING_ went right!!!

 

I'm glad I went for that extra 1/2 inch too!!!

 

I had the machine shop take 3-1/2" out of the driveshaft, and it fit right in like it was meant to be there smile

 

that was $80 well spent :>

 

$61 to shorten the drive shaft, and $20 to have them install a new ujoint.

 

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Tim,

 

You will now have to play with the 700 R4 TV Cable, which is important. Improper adjustment and your tranny will break in a hurry...

 

Check it out here:

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html

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I have a factory service manual for my '86 astro van with a 700r4 and it's really very simple, release the locks, push the cable all the way in, pull the throttle wide open, while holding it there, lock the cable in place.

 

my '89 cutlass also uses a TV cable.. tho it's a 440-T4 trans

the trans shop apparently forgot to set it, so I ended up doing it myself after the rebuild. been there.. done that wink

 

I still think the Vacum modulator and kickdown cable is a better setup smile

 

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kevin, I think I've got about an inch of yoke exposed when the car is sitting at normal ride height.

 

I'm actully kinda wishing I had only 3" taken out. I forgot to take into account taht the drive shaft slides into the trans as the rear suspension extends (axle drops away from body) and pulls the shaft out as it compresses, due to the arc of the control arms.. oh well. if it appears to be a problem, guess I'll buy another driveshaft from leo and only get 3" taken out lol

 

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I would have had the driveshaft balanced for if nothing else piece of mind. Around where I live for a few pennies more than what you spent you would have had a driveshaft made for your application with heavy duty Spicer u-joints. I believe mine was $150.00 complete with balancing. The DOM steel they used is much stronger than the OEM stuff. Just something to think about for the future if you really want to get crazy.

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i considered having one made.. but the best I could find was $300+ for aluminum ones. when I get that other u-joint done, I'll problaby just get it balanced 'just because' smile

 

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yeah.. $250 is a lot more then I want to spend right now on somthing I don't _really_ need at this point.

 

I will definately consider that tho when I start adding h.p again :>

 

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