680HPStroker Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 I know a few of you have done this. Did you do it yourself? If so how did you do it? Can it be done without screwing up your paint and can you roll the molding as well. I'd like to do this, but will only do it if it doesn't require a bunch of money at a body shop. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 I used a die grinder and cut mine, sealed the bare metal, put the moulding back on, and gently rolled the edge of the moulding with a soft rubber hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
680HPStroker Posted February 20, 2008 Author Share Posted February 20, 2008 Sam, after you rolled the molding over the cut and dressed edge of the wheel well opening how do you keep the molding on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 I left the screw holes (relocated some), but there are some adhesives out there that would do the job if you need to trim the holes off, if you do use an adhesive remember for good results...cleanliness is next to godliness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
502ci Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 I agree on grinding it off the way Sam mentioned, that's how I did mine. They do make a actual tool to roll it and I have seen ones done by themselves with a baseball bat... there's a monte near me that has a rolled lip and the metal in the actual face of the quarter developed waves in it when he did it...then he proceeded to do the other side... I could do nothing but stare and keep my mouth shut. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 71SSMC Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Eastwood has a fender rolling tool you may want to look into, i'm not sure it would work on our cars being the rear fender well is flat on top. I did see a chrysler 300 that it was used on and the fender lip was smooth as glass and only about 1/4" thick. If you do it use a heat gun and get the lip good and hot that way the paint won't chip. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=6159&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C503%2C504%2C514&KickerID=232&KICKER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Evil Austin Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 Well I did the rears today, how about the fronts ? How can that be handled ? -EA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
502ci Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 The fronts??? I have never seen anyone do the fronts except Kevin Wiles on his Coke Machine Monte. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Evil Austin Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 And how did he do it ? I am guessing no inner fender wells and a hammer, since I want to keep my inner fender wells I think I might just use smaller bolts to fasten them to the fender and that will be as far as I will go. -EA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
502ci Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 I can't remember if he has inner fenders but I would guess no. Kevin did extensive modifications to his front fender which included cutting and redoing the lip. Here's a photo of it. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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