TheBMan Posted September 2, 2023 Share Posted September 2, 2023 I searched the forums for answers to this question and found some info but not what I'm looking for specifically. This is the fusible link near the voltage regulator and horn relay. This is the large red wire (10 gauge?) that goes into the fusible link and turns into smaller (14 gauge ?) orange wire. According to the wiring diagrams, it appears to go from the voltage regulator over to the junction block near the battery. Anyhow, it looks shaky to me - like it could fail at any moment. Am I looking at it wrong? And where can I get a replacement? It comes out of the harness and doesn't appear to have any way to replace it without cutting and splicing/soldering or crimping. I read that some people eliminate this by using 8 gauge wire but I want to keep the car as original as possible. Thanks for any input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted September 3, 2023 Share Posted September 3, 2023 What do you mean by 'shaky'? Is it cracked, brittle? If you're going to replace it, cut and splice a new fusible link are your only options that I know of, unless the M&H or AAW direct factory replacement harnesses replicate the plastic molded barrel around the splice. Speaking of splices, I add a bare metal crimp when replacing fusible links (as well as any other large wires or high current carrying circuits), plus soldering as well (don't add so much solder that it wicks up the wire). Solder alone without the added mechanical splice could fail if indeed the circuit started to heat up in use. Granted, if it gets that hot, the link is likely to open as well if there's a short circuit, but I also include a metal splice too (not those plastic coated butt splices either, though some replacement links seem to come with a butt splice attached). Notice that the factory used a mechanical splice in your original wiring. If you tear a factory harness apart far enough, you'll see wherever they splice a few wires together, they're typically crimped and soldered too. Heat shrink tubing over the splice repair after that. Typically, a fusible link is 4 sizes smaller than the wire it's protecting. So, in your case here, it would normally be the 14 gauge wire protecting that 10 gauge circuit. Get dedicated fusible link wire too if possible. NAPA has it if needed. Last, GM spent a lot of time engineering the electrical systems of these cars, if they thought an 8 gauge was warranted, they would have used one. What did those people that replaced the wire for 8 gauge do for circuit protection, get a fire extinguisher? Just a thought. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBMan Posted September 3, 2023 Author Share Posted September 3, 2023 @jft69z Hey Joe, if you look closely, it looks like the wire inside the barrel isn't fully connected. I'm not sure if that's even possible or maybe I'm looking at it wrong. Maybe that's normal? I appreciate the input and tips and confirmation that my only choice is to cut and splice. If I replace this thing, that's what I'll do. I agree that replacing with 8 gauge wire sounds risky at best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted September 3, 2023 Share Posted September 3, 2023 20 minutes ago, TheBMan said: @jft69z Hey Joe, if you look closely, it looks like the wire inside the barrel isn't fully connected. I'm not sure if that's even possible or maybe I'm looking at it wrong. Maybe that's normal? I'm not seeing it, but it's hard with a picture. It certainly looks crimped, and looks to still be positively molded in place inside that clear plastic barrel. You could always try to get an ohmmeter across it to see if it has high resistance, but even a couple of connected wire strands will still show a 'short' circuit. The other option is to load the system up with high power draw accessories when running, and try to measure voltage drop across the link. If it's measurable, then there's a good chance it's compromised. Access to an amp clamp will help you easily see what the current draw in the wire is, vs. adding a multimeter in series with the wire, which will help you determine that you are indeed loading that particular circuit up. Maybe a closer picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBMan Posted September 3, 2023 Author Share Posted September 3, 2023 Does this help? Looks like only half of the larger wire is connected to the smaller wire. Again, maybe this is normal. I've never seen the inside of a fusible link (clear barrel) so I don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted September 3, 2023 Share Posted September 3, 2023 26 minutes ago, TheBMan said: Does this help? Looks like only half of the larger wire is connected to the smaller wire. Again, maybe this is normal. I've never seen the inside of a fusible link (clear barrel) so I don't know. That just looks like the excess 10 gauge wire coming from the left side of the metal crimp, to me. The bulk of that wire is inside that crimp itself, and it also looks like they tinned (soldered) the splice as well. (if you're talking about the couple of strands I boxed in) To be clear, the inside of that clear plastic barrel is not the fusible link, it's just a splice. The smaller gauge wire itself is the link that'll burn up if the circuit conditions warrant. They use them vs. fuses because they can carry higher current for a longer time as opposed to a fuse, but still provide protection when needed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBMan Posted September 3, 2023 Author Share Posted September 3, 2023 Ahhhh... that explains things. I did read that the smaller wire protects the larger wire but I didn't connect the dots that the smaller wire is the fusible link until you just said it. I think I'll leave it alone. I don't have any problems, I was trying to be proactive but it sounds like I don't need to create a problem where no problem exists. Thanks Joe!! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted September 3, 2023 Share Posted September 3, 2023 You're welcome! The wire itself is designed with better insulation to resist fire, and also has a higher insulation temperature rating, usually 150 degrees C. Here's more than you ever wanted to know about fusible links 😁: https://www.awcwire.com/allied-university/informatic/fusible-links https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/fusible-links/ https://www.lifewire.com/car-fuses-and-links-explained-4018163#:~:text=Fusible links are also encased,less likely to do so. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBMan Posted September 4, 2023 Author Share Posted September 4, 2023 On 9/3/2023 at 8:16 AM, jft69z said: You're welcome! The wire itself is designed with better insulation to resist fire, and also has a higher insulation temperature rating, usually 150 degrees C. Here's more than you ever wanted to know about fusible links 😁: https://www.awcwire.com/allied-university/informatic/fusible-links https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/fusible-links/ https://www.lifewire.com/car-fuses-and-links-explained-4018163#:~:text=Fusible links are also encased,less likely to do so. Joe, these links are good info. Same basic info in each but also some minor differences that make each valuable. Thanks for sharing! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted September 4, 2023 Share Posted September 4, 2023 1 minute ago, TheBMan said: Joe, these links are good info. Same basic info in each but also some minor differences that make each valuable. Thanks for sharing! If you sift thru enough articles, you can usually get a good consensus of what's accurate. I'll usually google a topic, then look thru a bunch of links to see what's good info, and what's B.S. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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