Kevin Wiles Posted December 26, 2000 Share Posted December 26, 2000 I have one week to install my 4 spd. manual. I have removed the automatic brake pedal and braket that holds it that goes through the firewall to the master cylinder. It is now completely out and I am about to install the clutch/brake pedal assembly. what i need to know is where does the rod that goes to the cluth pedal go through the firewall??? I do not see a hole for it, do I need to drill a hole, and if so Where? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grease Posted December 26, 2000 Share Posted December 26, 2000 Kevin yes you will need to drill the hole .you may find a dimple inthe floor where to drill but not always the case . i ll look at a floor pan but i only have autos myself . in the past i have found the dimlpe ona couple of gms i ve changed though . mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Wiles Posted December 26, 2000 Author Share Posted December 26, 2000 Ok, I just ran into a minor problem. As you can tell from the pictures the clutch/brake assembly has a "lip" right where it bolts up to the dash (where the 9/16" steering column nuts go) so I had to cut the new one to match. No big deal, just a little bump in the road to my quest of getting my 4 spd. in this week. (i'm off this week if you were wondering) So now if I could only figure out the place to drill for the clutch rod to Z-bar.......... it's dimple hunting time i guess.. Kevin Wiles   [This message has been edited by Kevin Wiles (edited 12-26-2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 26, 2000 Share Posted December 26, 2000 Hey is that the part you had a hard time finding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Wiles Posted December 26, 2000 Author Share Posted December 26, 2000 No, the part that is hard to find is the frame bracket. Dennis is making several copies that will fit the Monte and says they should be ready any day now. I will be getting one of those from him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 26, 2000 Share Posted December 26, 2000 how did the 4spd go? I'm puting a 4spd in come the summer. I have everything ready to go. to put it though the fire wall just put a hole to the left of the steering colum from the inside.above the plastic trim. you will see in the engine compartment that there is an punchout hole with three srews around it, thats where the boot and boot retaining ring go to seal it. for the sifter just put a hole in the trans hump and buy a trans plate. just weld to the hump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 26, 2000 Share Posted December 26, 2000 I'd like to get my hands on one of those. I'm still thinking of installing a 4-speed. My wife won't be able to drive it, but ohhhhhh well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 26, 2000 Share Posted December 26, 2000 Just get yourself a new cloum to fire wall seal and use the pre-punched hole as a guide, there you have the perfect hole. That is how I did on the late '72 (May God bless it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Wiles Posted December 26, 2000 Author Share Posted December 26, 2000 Alright now, I am taking the old components off the old Z-bar (grease fitting, fork rod) and I also took the little clip out so I could take out the old ball joint and use it on my new z-bar. After taking out the clip with a screw driver I figured I would be able to remove the ball but its still stuck in there. I can see where there is a ridge around it which won't let it come out of that end. (On the new one I see the valley where the clip goes but I do not see the ridge that holds the ball) I tried banging it through the other end but to no avail. How do I take this out and use it in my new Z? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 26, 2000 Share Posted December 26, 2000 Try to clean it out with a good cleaner, might have some really hard baked grease that needs to be removered. If not, steedy tapping on a long socket extention may free it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grease Posted December 27, 2000 Share Posted December 27, 2000 Kevin i looked at 3 70 models today and i cant figure where the clutch pushrod goes thru . so if its at the column plate i was loking in the wrong spot . sorry i cant help there . mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveC Posted December 27, 2000 Share Posted December 27, 2000 The rod goes through the metal part "collar" surrounding the steering column (that mounts to the cowl). And there is a boot that it goes through. What year car did you get your pedals from? It sounds unusuall that they would be different than the "A/T" one (at least in the way they mount)up under the dash. Â Â Â ------------------ Dave C. 70 402 4spd Monte Carlo 72 350 Monte Carlo 69 427 Corvette roadster 86 Grand National 96 Impala SS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Wiles Posted December 27, 2000 Author Share Posted December 27, 2000 Day 2 of my mission: I hope I drilled in the right place. I found the metal collar thing that goes around the column. then i saw the three screws and a plain bare place in the middle of those three screws. So i figured that must be the place. After drilling a small hole i saw that it comes out right in the middle of a hole that is already in the firewall and that hole is surrounded by foam rubber. SO then I was pretty confident that I had the right spot . I continued to drill until I had a hole big enough for the rod to go through and have some playing room. I hope this is the right spot! Pictured above is the inside part  and now this is the firewall shot:  Where can i get one of those firewall seals? Should be smooth sailing from here now.. only time will tell..   I think the pedals are from a 68 chevelle.  [This message has been edited by Kevin Wiles (edited 12-27-2000).]  [This message has been edited by Kevin Wiles (edited 12-27-2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr70Monte Posted December 27, 2000 Share Posted December 27, 2000 Kevin, Looks like you have the hole close, acording to my '70 assembly manual. Give Modern Chevrolet a call for the boot, part #5053-S, it looks like a Soft-Seal part number. Moderns number is 1-800-722-4828 There is also a boot retainer that they don't show a listing for, the cost of the boot is $9.25. The retainer could easily be made from a piece of flat metal (use the boot as a pattern) Year One has both pieces, the boot, #RP32C for $9.00, and the retainer, #RR687 for $16.95. Year One's number is 1-800-932-7663. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Wiles Posted December 29, 2000 Author Share Posted December 29, 2000 day 3 of my mission: nothing accomplished.. went out of town. I'll be back for day 4.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 29, 2000 Share Posted December 29, 2000 kevin thats exactly what i was taling about! you nail it perfectly. you need the firewall boot part no# W5053-$11.95 and firewall boot retainer ring #V1521-$14.95 from Paddock 800-428-4319 the ring goes on the three screws and hold the boot on. Original Parts Group-800-243-8355 #AM50521 boot and #C980157 retaining ring- same prices. also pick up from Paddock #CH199E shifter hump plate for console $64.95. it welds to the hump so you can cover up the big hole for the shifter.OPG has end of year sale$240.00 for a console complete!good luck let me know how you make out. I will be doing the samething come spring. Â ------------------ please restore em' and not crush em' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Wiles Posted December 29, 2000 Author Share Posted December 29, 2000 Day 4 of my mission. First of all I supported the engine and then removed the driveshaft. easy stuff..  Then I took off the crossmember. Very hard to turn the nuts, but finally got it. Then i had to get a large hammer to knock it out of place.  Then I started taking the transmission to engine bolts out. I took all of them out except the top 2 (i just loosened them) I also took off the flywheel cover.  I ordered the shifter rod boot and boot retainer from PartsPlace www.thepartsplaceinc.com $25 for both  tomorrow when I have some help, I will take out the 3 flywheel bolts and remove the top 2 trans-to-engine bolts and take the old auto out. Hopefully tommorow I can also get the 4 spd bolted up. I'm not sure how to set up the pressure plate and all that stuff. I have a chiltons book and it shows an exploded view, so I hope that will do the trick. Any other advice on that would be helpful. thanks! KEvin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 29, 2000 Share Posted December 29, 2000 Kevin, Â If you don't have one you're going to need a clutch pilot tool to get the clutch aligned properly before tightening it down. The "Help" kind they sell at discount auto houses don't have splines but I've always had better luck with the splined sort you get at speed shops. Â Also if you don't have one you'll need a boot that surrounds the clutch fork where it passed through the bellhousing. If they haven't shipped it yet, you can add that to your order and save some shipping. Â And don't forget to be sure the pilot bearing is seated correctly in the rear of the crank or you'll never get the transmission to sit flush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 29, 2000 Share Posted December 29, 2000 Say, do you have a reprint of the factory assembly manual? It will cover any of the small stuff anyone of us might of missed and didn't tell you. And your frame bracket will be ready for you next week, as long as the weather don't fight the postoffice, it will be at your door around Saturday. Got a few examples done and should have the final patterns done in a few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Wiles Posted December 29, 2000 Author Share Posted December 29, 2000 Godsavethemonte: YearOne, OPG, and Paddock did not have them in stock, so thats why i chose partsplace. Didn't want you to think i was ignorin' ya or somethin.... Â I'll have to get one of those clutch pilot tools, and I'll see if I can find one with the splines. This is a Borg-Warner 4 spd. so where can I get a boot for the bellhousing for that? Is it the same as a muncie? Is that part completely mandatory? Â I dont have an assembly manual, but i'm getting one soon. You'd think I'd have such a useful reference as that, but I dont. Â Dennis: thanks for the help with the bracket. without that i'd have to pay an arm and a leg for one. I'll let you know how well it works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 30, 2000 Share Posted December 30, 2000 Kevin, Â You can run for awhile without the boot and it is possible to install it after the fact, but a lot harder than when you are putting it together and you'll have to readjsut the clutch linkage all over. Dirt, grit, sand, etc will enter through that hole and signifigantly increase clutch and flywheel wear if you just don't run one at all. Get the tool for a BW tranny as it will match the splines of the transmission you are trying to install. If possible try to line things up with one of the keyed slots dead up in the 12'clock position. Then you can twist the transmission input shaft to match that position and slide it into place. If it's off a degree or two you can twist the output yoke while gently sliding the transmissionn forward to get it lined up. Don't try cranking down on the four bolts that connect the transmission to pull it flush to the bellhousing. I did that my first time and buggered the input splines on the tranny. Â Also, if they have one in stock, they make plugs for the rear of the transmission to keep you from taking a bath in grease while you raise it into place. A four speed isn't that heavy compared to an automatic, but an extra helper under there with two more hands and another set of eyes is always a plus. Â In a final fount of useless information, Moroso makes an extended set of crossmember bolts which are a lot easier to install and remove than the factory bolts that hide out way down there inside the crossemember. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 30, 2000 Share Posted December 30, 2000 Kevin, all boots are necessary to keep out the dirt.It's the right way to do things, you really dont to get any dirt in there, altough it will not kill it. dont forget the pilot bearing make sure its the right one! or it will not go in. for the clutch tool go to local machine shop and see if they have an old trans shaft, it's better than using a plastic one and its free. good luck man! let us know how you make out. there's nothing like a 4spd!!! Â ------------------ please restore em' and not crush em' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70SS454 Posted December 30, 2000 Share Posted December 30, 2000 Kevin, If the boot you are looking for is the clutch fork boot, there is one on E Bay for 7.99 New. The item # is 533996791. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 30, 2000 Share Posted December 30, 2000 Kevin. Are you tired of laying under that car yet? Anyway, I got my clutch boot from G.M. Look at truck stuff. I also put it on after. Good Luck. Fred. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Wiles Posted December 31, 2000 Author Share Posted December 31, 2000 Day 5 of my mission: Very cold. Â The 3 flywheel bolts were VERY hard to get off with me working by myself. First I tried to insert a screwdriver in the belt at the pulley to keep the engine from turning. That didn't work. Then after a while of trying that I tried jacking up the flywheel so it wouldnt move but the jack just rolled right along with the flywheel. By this time I was pretty aggravated so I put a ratchet on and hit it with a big 'ol hammer and they loosened. I had to kick the ignition several times to get the bolts into position so i could put the ratchet on and smack with the hammer. Finally it was all disconnected BUT the tranny fell onto the headers and wouldnt come down all the way. So, I had to jack up one side and hit the other side with my trusty hammer to get it off of one header. Then I just let the jack down slowly and put the tranny down on the garage floor. WHAT A JOB! WHEW! Â I went to the parts store and got a splined clutch pilot tool (its plastic) Â From this point on should be the fun part.... Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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