Exchanging carb and kickdown question(s)

[Madmike]

Hi ladies and gents!

Haven't been on here in a grip, (Life changes) and now I am back! (With questions)

 

Quick story :

Moved from Oregon to Las Vegas for a new job/life, not to mention, different climate and about a 2000ft. elevation difference...

Anyway, I had(still have it, in a box gathering dust) a 750 CFM Holley, which I used extensively... until I moved to Vegas, where it sprung a leak (I swear it was from accelerator pump diaphragm and/or stripped bowl bolt) Anyway, Nevada has emissions, and instead of fixing something that is going to hinder me on passing emissions, I got a 600 CFM Edelbrock, instead.

 

Just got done slapping it on, changed the fuel line, everything is going smooth until I hit a snag.

 

The kick down cable. So when I use my thumb to open the throttle, all is well, until I get to the secondaries. That is where the length of the kick down cable hinders me from opening them up.

 

I can push the button that is on the bottom of it, to give myself a bit more leeway. But at this point the spring on the back of the housing is fully compressed.

 

So now my question. Can I just disconnect the kickdown all together, and just manually switch gears? I'm running a slightly modified TH350 to match my ZZ4 Crate engine. I am not sure, but if I were to leave that kick down cable on, that I might burn something up... GAH.

 

At this point any suggestions will be USEFUL

 

Thanks ahead of time.

 

Mike

[bigscaht]

go to lokar and get a longer kickdown cable....

[ThirdMC]

You can also get a B&M kickdown cable, it's adjustable, just replaced the stock one on mine because the slide that connects to the carb linkage (Edelbrock 600) was broken. When I bought my car the kick-down wasn't hooked up and unless you want to manually shift it all the time I wouldn't recommend running it that way as it seems to affect how the tranny shifts. Performance was like night and day when I got it replaced. I think having it kick down into passing gear is better and much safer then manually pulling it down into L2. Make a mistake at pull it into L1 at too high a speed and you may cause some damage.

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/B%26amp%3BM/130/30287/10002/-1

[kc8oye]

you shouldn't need to replace the cable. you need to replace the bracket that holds the cable jacket in place.

 

get the correct one from edelbrock is my suggestion, while it will cost more.. it's more likely to work correctly. When I swapped my qjet for a holley, Ihad the same issues, (compounded by the extra distance from the carb spacer) so I bought the bracket from holley that supports both the kickdown and throttle cable and mounted to the back carb bolt, and no problems with my Th350, or the 700r4 I use now)

 

thirdmc: unless your trans is extensively modified, a TH350 won't kickdown into 1st above a certain speed. (i think it's around 35mph) for exactly that reason) even if you pull it into Low-1

 

now.. hitting reverse @ 45mph is another story.. (Ask me how I know, lol)

 

and yes, you can leave that cable totally unhookd on a TH350, it's only used for controlling WOT upshifts and kickdowns. (it will tend to shift a little earlier then normal w/o it)

and you can definately manually shift a th350

[Madmike]

Thanks for the info! Much appreciated!

Gonna post some pics when she's up on the road again.