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Paul Bell

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Paul Bell last won the day on January 7

Paul Bell had the most liked content!

About Paul Bell

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    Bronze Member

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    New York City
  • Interests
    Cars & sound
  • Legal Name
    Paul Bell
  • Occupation
    Professional Audio

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  1. Paul Bell

    power window install

    Having said all this, knowing how things were done back then, it's possible that different assembly lines did the power feed differently and it wouldn't surprise me. Either way works. However, if you have headlights on, stepping on the brakes, wipers on, etc. then run one or two windows up or down, you may blow the fuse in the fuse block that feeds the BATT terminal thereby killing everything. Having the power windows on a separate feed from the horn relay battery buss is a more proper electrical design. If I was installing power windows, I'd NOT feed it from the fuse box.
  2. Paul Bell

    power window install

    The engine side firewall pic Sendo posted came from me. It's my understanding that Chevrolet cars had an added wire from the horn relay to a circuit breaker on the firewall that fed a wire that poked out from the inside to feed optional items like power seats and windows and convertible tops (on Chevelles). I've also seen that Buicks got the power window feed from the "BATT" terminal on the fuse block for the same power window system, they just fed it main power differently. I have a power window system that I pulled from a Monte years ago with the feed-through wire. Here's what the feed-through wire looks like and a pic on the power end of my harness.
  3. The casting number says it's originally built new in 1969 and it's a GM A-body unit so I'd imagine the arm brackets are where they should be.
  4. Paul Bell

    Opinions everyone!

    White top-and interior!
  5. Paul Bell

    All new electrical for my 72

    A Rick's Tank's Restomod tank that accepts a modern GM fuel module such as from a ZL1 and a Vaporworx PWM pump controller. A modern fuel module keeps itself full with a siphon jet system. The advantages are it's a non-return system plus the pump only draws the needed current to maintain pressure, which is much less that full power return style systems-which results in the added bonus of less fuel heating. The ZL1 pump is good for 830HP, a CTSV pump, which also fits, is good to over 1,000HP. The disadvantage is cost, the three needed items are $1,200.00 or more. The Holly EFI tanks or other "EFI" tanks with sumps, fuel mats, etc do a poor job maintaining fuel pressure when the tank is low due to the pickup becoming uncovered. Dropped fuel pressure in an EFI system, even for a few seconds, will stall the engine. The Aeromotive Stealth EFI tanks do a pretty good job compared to other designs-except a genuine GM fuel module of course.
  6. Paul Bell

    Another new guy

    Welcome! Congrats on the purchase! I've never seen markings like that on a hood but others may have. Can we see more pics? Engine, interior, etc. Does it have the right side mirror? I'm thinking this is a low option car, no vinyl roof, non-painted optional sport mirror.
  7. Hey Sendo, did you ever find another VIN?
  8. Paul Bell

    All new electrical for my 72

    Line lock is just a momentary button so no relay. Today's exhaust cutout kits come with the needed wiring, some have a controller module. What engine & trans are you using?
  9. Paul Bell

    All new electrical for my 72

    8 gauge is a little overkill for a Sniper system. It doesn't draw that much. An electric fuel pump can draw a bunch and should come off a separate circuit controlled by a relay triggered by the Sniper. Fuel supply for fuel injection is important. Don't use an external fuel pump or one of those front mounted surge tanks. Here is the second best tank you can get: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-18308/overview/year/1971/make/chevrolet/model/monte-carlo You'll need 3/8" hose feed AND return lines between the tank fittings and the throttle body. If using rubber hose, make sure it's fuel injection pressure rated. Cover the hoses in the chassis with wiring split loom tubing. A 10 gauge wire from the fuel pump relay to the tank works great. Run it through the interior as you have everything open.
  10. Paul Bell

    All new electrical for my 72

    Frankie, assuming you ordered the kit for factory gauges, here are the color codes for the gauge cluster plug. This tells you what wires go where to the Dakota inputs.
  11. Paul Bell

    All new electrical for my 72

    Hey Frankie! I see the wiring kit you bought is complete, engine, interior and rear. It looks nice, I like that it has modern fuses. Because you’ll be using the Dakota system, you won’t be using the under hood wiring for the oil and temp gauges. The Dakota wiring for those sensors will need to go through a hole you’ll make in the firewall. Volts, tach, turn signals, high beam, brake, fuel and tach signals can be picked up in the dash. Dakota Digital has optional modules to acquire transmission selector and speedo signals, you’ll need to run the wiring to the transmission. The AAW kit looks nice but a lot of plugs are loose, un-terminated. As you’ll have a lot of crimping to do, I suggest you get the crimping tool for the Packard plugs as they’d recommend. I’m a fan of also soldering after crimping. As you have a 1972 car, did this kit include the seat belt warning light wiring? Don’t forget a few spare extra wires from the dash to the trunk!
  12. Paul Bell

    Dana 60 swap

    Unless you're pushing 1,000 HP, there's no need for a Dana 60. They are nice tho....
  13. Paul Bell

    LF Drivers Side Door/Fender

    Include in your search doors from all three years and fenders from 71 cars, these are the same for 72 cars. 70 fenders are different.
  14. Paul Bell

    Purchased a th400

    The tail housing gasket is just that-a gasket. While you have the tail housing off the unit, replace the driveshaft seal. It installs just like a timing cover crank seal.
  15. Paul Bell

    71 vs 72 Radiator support cross bar

    This would make the 1972 part unique to 1972 Monte Carlo cars.