Daryl

Bill Find the problem yet?

Not saying this is it, but something else to check. I once had a vent issue on a gas tank. It allowed the tank to keep a vacuum and on startup "low rpms" the fuel pump had to overcome the vacuum to fill the bowl. At running RPMs it wasn’t a problem. Got a new cap problem went away.

I'm surprised no one has responded to your questions yet. About a year or so ago I was going through the same questions myself. I can't remember all the research that I did but I seem to remember that the tall ball joints and tubular a arms will provide the same improvements in your steering geometry. I chose to go with the tubular a arms because that way when the ball joints do go bad I can use stock replacements. The tall aftermarket ones are good bit more money. Plus the tubular a arms look cool

I like to remove the plugs and squirt trans fluid in the cylinders and spin it over a good bit with the plugs out. Helps loosen the rings and any rust. New fluids goes without sayin.

Got any pics?

Found a great video that puts it in perspective. I also found that Tremec has an app for smartphones that turns them into a drive line angle calculator.

FYI- These are interchangable with the Lares, Cardone and Astco use the same part# 7525

Here is what I ordered for mine; $50.79 for a Lares 1353 box with a $50.00 core and a Lares 200 rag joint for $16.66. I sold my old box to a guy and got my core charge back. So I ended up dishing out around $70.00 for the the swap. Only mod I did is changing the hoses becauses the new box has a different fitting set up. I was changing the lines any way because I also added a hydro boost. I paid a little less as I had purchased mine a year ago. The above prices are current from Rockauto.

I went with the jeep box and I know I paid way less from rockauto. I'll try and get you the cardone part# I used.

I know I read some where that the previous generation chevelle metal was less work "prior 68". Can any one verify that?

I paid less for mine too when I got mine back in January. Like the man said shop around for best price. Here is a pic of mine installed. Below pic is a link to the jegs set. Jegs set

Here are the parts I used in mine. Rear disk set Drop spindles The hydro booster I got from an astro van used 30$. Rebuild kit was another 30 if I remember correctly.

I went through this dilemma myself. I came to the logic that if I was going to go faster, I needed to stop faster. 4 wheel disc, no brainier. I also added a hydro boost.

I have one too! So far so good!

I'm glad you found your problem, but like I said in my first post though, make sure you check your ground straps also or you could be revisiting this issue again.

I would first start with checking your battery cables, both ends. make sure they are tight in the terminals and have a good connection. I think also there is a insulated stud that mounts on the radiator core support right behind the battery. It connects the positve wire from the battery to the car wiring harness. I have also seen some goofy electrical problems occur because of bad ground straps.

I am doing a total rebuild of my car and as of yet the body is not even on the frame. So I haven't had a chance to test them out. As far as the springs goes those are Moog's BBC stock replacements and for shocks I'm going to go with Vikings. My spindles are a 2 inch drop and I can't remember where the rotors came from without digging through a huge pile of receipts, don't tell the wife!