Jason72

I had the wilwood calipers on. I’d say no improvement over stock. Drilled rotors and good pads made a big improvement over stock. I recently upgraded to a 4 piston rear and 6 piston front with larger rotors ( do not remember the diameter at the moment) That along with the hydro boost makes the car stop insanely fast. No problems running hot laps up to 135 mph all afternoon.

Mb old school 17x8 4.5 backspace 5x4.75 lug $200 plus shipping. Has 2 continental tires and 2 mt drag radials (need to be replaced) have minor marks as they were street driven I can text pictures. Contact me at 484-350-2365

Queens. In macungie pa. Do really nice work. (610)966-4310

I used energy suspension body mounts. Just put them on 2 weeks ago. The link is for the 2 extra bushings. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-4171R this is the rest of them. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-4170r

The cable on the 700 is a throttle valve cable. It controls line pressures at throttle position. That is why if not set properly you can smoke the trans in a hurry If having a 700 built, install a constant pressure valve body. It transforms the tv cable to a kick down and the pressure is controlled more like a th400/350. the shift points are controlled by the governor. Changing the springs and weights changes shift points

I plan on it…

New wheels and tires. New adjustable shocks. Going to autocross and track days with it this year

Push rods may be too long

We are talking about push rods now not rocker studs correct?

Personally don’t see a problem. Your concern about floating a valve should not be if you run the right valve springs and rpm as intended as dictated by the parts you use. the cam lobe lift will not be made big enough to push the lifter out of the bore, the closed part of the lobe is ground smaller to move the lifter down further into the bore when the valve is closed. Also, 1/8th inch times rocker ratio would equal piston to valve contact with valve float. Again, combination of parts for intended rpm

Any updates?

That’s what I’m leaning towards. Just looking for opinions though

I’m looking for suggestions on shocks to run for track days at pocono raceway. All umi suspension front and rear except for drag shocks. The event I’m looking to run uses the road course track that cuts off turn 3 and turn 1 with road coarse sections. Thanks

Jft69z, thanks to you too, I’d like to hear the outcome of both situations

Understood. Thanks for the update.

Any updates on any of this?

I wondered if the ecu being right on top of the engine and in the heat like that contributes to the problems. That’s a lot of electronics and circuits in a small package that has to deal with vibration and thermal events

Thanks for the info!

219/219@.050. 110 lsa. Thanks

I’ll check them out. Thanks.

My fitech ended up smashed in pieces and sent back to them. Their support was horrible. And the unit was trash. I know people and talked to people that love it on their car but the engine is mostly stock.

My other thought although more expensive is to use a terminator ecu with factory style intake and supporting components. the problem that I’ve come across with the fitech unit was mostly (I assume) camshaft related. My 427 sbc has a 106 lsa 260 @ .050 and very low vacuum.

Any details on the problems he is having?

Any cam specs? Approximate is fine.