Jason72

Do any of you guys that installed the sniper system have any feedback? Along with feedback I am curious of cubic inch and cam specs. I and a few people I know installed the FITECH units with pretty gnarly cams ended up going back to carbs because of mostly idle issues. I personally want to supercharge one of my cars that currently uses nitrous. Was thinking of the sniper system but a little gun shy…

A trick I found to keep these prop valves from closing while bleeding brakes: gravity bleed all 4 wheels first. Fill master, leave lid off, open all bleeders and wait. As fluid starts to flow from each wheel close that bleeder. Then bleed the brakes as usual. This ensures there is fluid in the lines before you press the pedal and trip the valve. Also use low pressure on the brake pedal when bleeding the rear. A jolt of fluid will trip the valve. also, that valve pictured is an old style proportioning valve. That is what will close off fluid flow to the rear brakes. The newer style we all recognize that is under the drivers floor is technically called a combination valve. Does the job of a proportioning valve, distribution block and pressure switch.

Mine showed up pretty quickly. Installed them today. Very easy install. If you want sequential lighting you have to run an extra wire to ignition power and there is a “mode button” on the back of the unit. You can not reach the button once you attach the circuit board to the housing. I took off the double sided tape provided and installed them with Velcro. Also the camera doesn’t do them any justice. Look brighter in person. Definitely better than stock! IMG_9856.MOV

I just ordered a set of these after waiting since 11/20 for the other brand to show up. Order went through and got an email 10 minutes later- Covid blah blah 6-8 weeks before shipping……

I don’t know how old you are but about 2 years ago, I’m 45, I lost interest in working on my projects. I think I got that way from realizing I was always working on them, trying to go faster, handle better and so on instead of enjoying what I built. So I decided to make a “good enough” list. The 72 is a head turner and performs as good as it looks. Done. The corvette is just fine for track days. Done. The 88 runs the 1/4 straight, hooks, and consistently. Done. And the 55 pick up, just a driver. Done. I have one more big build to do and I will finish it because I started it however, after that it’s only repairs and maintenance. I’d rather have memories in the car, not under the car.

Not sure on that. The drag strip I go to is windows up. When I do road course at other tracks with my corvette, it’s windows down.

Anyone have any videos or pics of their car on an auto Cross or road course? Not too many on the web.

That looks like the way I may go. I was looking at Camaro seats after you posted. I found a few at a fair price in good condition. I really appreciate you taking the time for the response. Thank you.

I’d love to see a pic please! Thanks

Looking for some ideas. My 72 currently has a bench seat. I am wanting to run the car at some track events and looking for a seat (aftermarket or late model) that looks good in the car, comfortable for a road trip and keeps you in place around a corner. Any pics or year make model seat ideas would be great. Thanks. Jason

Nice car! I always liked the black cherry and the black but can’t tolerate the maroon gut. Best friend in high school had the 88 ss t top black with tan gut. I fell in love with that car and had a lot of fun in it. So I finally was able to get one 25 years later. Mine is 408 carbed LS3 4l80 9” ford rear. All built by me. Runs 10.60 @129 1/4. Weighs 3850 with me in it. Full interior but no heat or ac

Beautiful car. Mine was original when I bought it lol

What kind of mph are you seeing?

I adjusted them up and in tight. You actually have to open the door to roll the window up the last inch or so. Haven’t driven the car much this year as I was involved in another build (1988 MC SS track day/ drag car) so the weather strips should be compressed from sitting in the garage with the windows up.

Update: Sent car for alignment. Was all good. Showed the owner the mounts and explained the issue. Told owner I wasn't getting involved with aligning the body so take it to a body shop. He was happy with that and took the car.

If the alignment isn’t to far out now I guess I could replace them but put a 2 inch spacer underneath them

All others look right. I don’t want to mess with them because I’m not getting involved in trying to realign the front clip. The rad support will go down 2 inches if I replace them. He needs suspension bushings and I’m concerned if the alignment will be able to be done afterwards. I was thinking of taking it to an alignment shop first to see how far out of wack is is now before I do anything. mainly I was asking if anyone has seen the front horns bend down on these cars for some reason (collision) or another…

I also noticed all his bumper brackets are at the top of there adjustment

These are my car

These 3 pics are the car in question. Looks like all 3 parts of the mount are in between the frame and support

I have a 1970 in my garage for some routine maintenance and I noticed the body mounts in the front under the radiator support are about 4-5 inches thick between the frame and rad support. I thought it looked odd so i looked at my 1972. Mine are only 1 1/2-2 inches thick. The body lines up nice on the 70 but I suspect the front frame horns may be bent down. Any ideas?

I finally got around to adjusting the windows. I snugged them up tight to the rubbers and it did the trick. 128 mph and not worrying about the glass popping out of the car was nice. Thanks for the help.

I’ll try that. Thanks