cbolt

Just finished rebuilding my clock following the posted instructions. It took less than 3 hours, start to finish, with the clock already removed from the dash. I had to post this in case anyone was scared to attempt this very simple repair.

Just checked the superbrightleds website, how can you tell if the led's are dimmable?

I have seen more than one faulty external regulators when they are brand new. I second the recommendation to switch to the internally regulated setup. The swap is fairly inexpensive, simple, and reliable.

I used the SEM products to change my interior from green to blue and have no complaints. I think a member here suggested cleaning everything really good with simple green first, which I did, and have had no issues with chipping or peeling on any of the parts I sprayed. I did the "conversion" about 3 years ago and it still looks fresh.

I know exactly where you are coming from... lol I am still waiting on a top plate and shifter selector plate for my install. Oh, and I need the wiring harness as well. Figure I have time to get my selector plate and base for the horseshoe powder coated because I sure don't see the parts getting here anytime soon.

Scott, I already fixed the issue. I had to press the fastener out with a vice and socket. In case anyone else runs into that setup during a horseshoe conversion that is the "fix" for it. Too late for pics, I discarded the old parts.

Doesn't it feel great to get to drive it after all that hard work? I take it everything worked well other than the brake light issue...

Yes, Larry, the Shiftworks has some really great information regarding their products. That is what prompted me to purchase from them.

I wish mine were that easy. The rear "bolt" is not a bolt at all but what looks like a pressed in kinda fastener. It does not look like a rivet to me because of its size and appearance.

Yes, and that is where I got the detent plate. No mention of how to remove the old detent or is there any mention of a neutral safety switch specifically for the 4 speed application.

I am in the process of modifying a stock horseshoe shifter to a 4 speed overdrive configuration and have a couple of questions for anyone who has done this conversion. The detent plate is bolted in on one side and it looks like some type of rivet on the other. Can anyone tell me if this is pressed in? Will it be better to drill it out or cut it or even just use a cold chisel? A second question; the safety switch.... can I use the stock one or is there a part specifically for the 4 speed overdrive? I don't really want to start cutting/chopping/drilling before I have all the angles figured. Thanks in advance.

A good tranmission place should have no trouble swapping out the speedo gear for the correct one. As far as the lights go I would start with an inspection of the headlight switch. I believe there is supposed to be a ground strap attached to it.

I was getting about 15mpg with a TH350 and 2:73 gears at about 75 mph. The car would go just under 200 miles on a tank of fuel. You will probably do much worse with the 3:73's. I guess the decision to either stick with the current setup or do some mods would depend on what type of driving you are planning. If you are primarily planning to do road trips, you will benefit from changing gears. If you are going to primarily attend local cruise-ins and the like, you may want to leave it alone. My suggestion is to take it on the road and see how it does, figure out what you want it to do, and go from there.

I found it really easy to install the new harness as I removed the old one.... just begin at the firewall connector and work your way forward.

I had similiar starter issues and after replacing the engine wiring, starter cable, and several starters from my local parts stores I broke down and bought a "new" starter from Jegs. Not a mini starter but a powertech (?) and have had two years of trouble free starting. I had the same trouble with AC compressors from the local places and the fix was buying a new unit vs. rebuilt. I think the quality that goes into rebuilding them for the big parts stores has gone down or something.

I used one of those starters, but ordered it from Jegs. Works great!

I had a vibration issue with mine and though the U-joints were relatively new and showed little wear my vibration went away with replacing both front and back U-joints. Honestly that was the last thing I thought it was going to be.

Looks really good Steve!

Finished hooking up my fuel lines and took the car to fill the tank. New gas tank, sending unit, straps and all the old vent hoses back there replaced. Everything fit wonderfully and works as advertised. No more of that pesky waaaay past full gauge reading.

Yea, I have the one with three vents and no return on the sending unit. Now the question is, which provides better rust prevention, galvanized or zinc plated? Anyone have any knowledge in this area?

My car was equipped with a charcoal canister when I found it and still has it, but it is not hooked up. Would that matter? I will definitely crawl under it in the morning and count lines but I am thinking the only way to be sure I am getting the correct part is to remove the old one first. Thanks Scott and Steve!

I am trying to order a new tank and sending unit and noticed that there are many different options to choose from. Does anyone know which one would go in the '72 or guide me in determining which one is in my car without dropping the tank? I would like to keep my car on the road as long as possible and still get the correct parts on order, if that makes sense. Thanks in advance.

"Leo" being the common theme here. I didn't know about Leo when I did mine so...... they fit not great.

The contours on the patch panels are not even close to the actual fender contours so you will need to do a lot of "massaging" to get them to line up with the doors and all your trim.

The patch panels are terrible. That is what I did and would never ever ever never do that again. Worst part of my car if you ask me.