MC1of80

As long as the block has both starter bolt patterns you can use either starter. In your case you said your block did. You'rewelcome and good luck!

All the stock a-body 12 bolt rears that I have / have had all had 30 spline axles from the factory.

First of all, stay calm. Welcome to the world of working on cars. And that was not to be mean. Some starters need to be shimmed. As far as the bolt holes, any configuration will work with your block. Some starters even had one short bolt and one long. If you are not happy with the look of the new starter, see if you can return it. Did you bring your old one with you to match up? Again, the new one you got should be fine. (Without seeing it). If you decide to try the new starter, I have found that one shim between the block and starter is a good starting point. Should the starter “grind” more shims are needed till it stops. Hope this helps.

You are welcome. Yes the bendix is part of the starter. I don’t believe that it is bad though. You say the starter makes a noise and doesn’t engage the flywheel. Usually it is the solinoid that “throws” the bendix out. A new starter is quicker and easier in my opinion. Just my .02.

Definitely 2 jack stands for safety. I usually put one on each side on the frame behind the front wheels. Disconnect the battery!!! Then there are usually 2 bolts holding the starter to the block. Sometimes there is a 3rd bolt/ bracket in the front of the starter. Usually through the years this bracket “disappears “. Then lower the starter and disconnect the battery wire from the starter and the smaller wires from the solinoid. Take note of which terminal the small wires are on. And just reverse the process for the installation of the new starter. I hope this helped. I know I may have made it sound easy. Lol it is. And I have done hundreds so it is second nature to me.

I installed a vacuum pump for the brakes. Got it from summit. I installed it in the left front corner of the engine compartment. Bolted to the fenderwell, tucked under the fender and the windshield washer tank. Out of sight unless you look for it. It has worked flawlessly and with the car running, you can’t hear it.

Hi. It sounds like the starter solinoid is going bad. It’s not “kicking” out the bendix (gear that meshes with the flywheel). I personally would just get a new starter. You can get a new one relatively cheap. It’s just easier and quicker to just change the starter than remove the starter and then r/r the solinoid. All up to you though. Lol either way, good luck.

Nice install Jared! Didn’t know QTP made a 3 1/2” cutout....nice!!

Jared, I am looking forward to seeing the finished product. I was thinking of those QTP’s for my 70 also. Beautiful car by the way!

Silly question, do you have a MSD 6al or the likes with a chip or rev limiter? I had a few cars in the past that had the same issue and that’s what it wound up being. Bouncing off the rev limiter or “chip/pill”. Hope this helps.

You can have/set number one spark plug wherever you want on the distributor as long as the “firing order” is correct. Most common I have seen is the 180 out compared to factory specs. As long as you put the pick up from the timing light on the number 1 spark plug wire, no matter where it is on the distributor, you can time the engine “normally”.