MeanMonte

Thanks Again everyone!!! The rescue crew was just amazing..... well maybe, HA! No seriously thanks again for everyone who helped us over the weekend!

Just wanted to let everyone know that the tire we came up with got us home safe! thanks again everyone!!!

Kevin i have them shaved on my monte and love it! It took a bit of work but you should be able to handle it. I cut the top layer off with a disc cutter. Then i rolled the under layer over and hammered it down. Then i welded the whole seam a spott at a time. Yes when it rains it runs down the windows..... But for my car that has been in the rain one time who cares. as far as wind it should break off the edge cleaner and have less noise. email me and ill try to come up with some pics. eb_fast@yahoo.com

I have the glasstek fenders, they would be ok for a strip car but i would spend the bucks and go with steel if i had it to do again. I spent a HUGE amount of time to get them straight and mount them and to be honest my car would be nicer with steel fenders. If your concerned with the weight just add more power it is so much easier.

Looking good!

i dont think the loop is going to do much if its only bolted to the sheet metal. should be mounted to the body brace. how about some pics as i am gettign ready to make one for my car. good luck!

DONT SCREW RADIALS! The rim screws dont work right with the radial cords. Look into it. If you have to screw them ie running 9's then from pro recommendations you need at least 16 screws per side of the wheel. The prefered method is to use permatex "high Tach" adhesive on the beads. I had one of mine slip about 5 inches. I am going to high tack them before the next trip out. I have the MT drag radials and the hook hard if you get a little heat into them and run 18 psi in them.

wet layup will work better as it bonds the layers more even.

use the cloth as above to get the best shape. if you staple the glass it wont be able to drape right and will bunch up and distort. i belive if you are using a female mold you paint it with gelcoat and let it tack up i belive. there are different types of gelcoat. do some searching on the internet and you should be able to find step by step, maybe even on the sites i posted for you. good luck

gelcoat is a product. Carbon fiber is much more finiky to work with if you are going to be able to see it as the cloth snags very very easy which makes it look like poop. Overall the CF actually seems to drape better. The cloth i have is twill weave. I havn't used much yet, i was going to make inner fenders with it but i backed out of it. I am very sensitive to glass fibers in my arms, i get irritated by firewall pads at work when doing tuneups.

http://www.uscomposites.com/index.html Ordered some Carbon fiber, glass, filler cloth, resin and some oter stuff from them before. Would recomend checking them out! http://www.fiberlay.com/ <----- never used, just research

A lot of people use the test port on a fuel injected fuel rail for the n2o and its valve core sized. You should run the same sized return as your feed line with a carb. The a1000 will suport a lot more than a stock 502/502 with a couple hundred shot. I am running a dual walbro inline pump setup on my car with the 13202 regulator -10 and -10 lines. I love the pumps, they were around the same price as the a1000 after i bought the Y fitting and other fittings. They were designed to be run just like any average car to 100k plus miles. They are very very quiet. and best part is they flow more than an a1000. If you intrested search for gls392 i belive is the model number. They are inline fuel injection pumps and flow around 60gph @ 50psi up to like 70-80psi. YOu have to run a bypass regulator obviously just like the a1000.

My 700r4 has parts from PATC they have good customer service and parts. For a converter i would shop around patc doesnt make converters, the one i got from the was a midwest. I would look elsewhere for a converter to be honest.

everything had to be custom fit and modified....... i even trimmed the whole edge off the inners and made a new one to fit the fiberglass fenders.

I'll hook you up with the 12 bolt rear out of my monte $1200 from drum to drum. 4.11's like new eaton posi, new aftermarket axle shafts all in good running shape! I have to upgrade and change gears and everything so im just going to get a 9" or dana 60 to help insure against breakage. pm me if intrested

My glasstek fiberglass fenders required a lot of fitment of the new steel inner fenders to make them work right. The fenders are thicker than steel so the crease around the wheel arch isnt as deep and they just all around were a pain to install into the fenders............ It will work if you really want it to, its all just a question of how much you want to spend or how long you want to work on it.

find yourself a SPAL dual 11" fan setup, fairly cheap compared to the dual setup above and works very well. I had a cheap 16" and it would overheat in traffic. I switched it out and there is a huge difference! check this out http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dual-11-H...sspagenameZWDVW

I live almost across the street from the base ha! Let me know if you want to come by sometime. There are no direct turbo kits im aware of pretty much everything is custom built for the cars. Banks has a super high dollar setup for sb not sure about bb though. A guy i work with put one on a C6 when they first came out and they had to send it back in to have the thing rebuilt. I think the bearings went out. I really really wanted a procharger until i started to research all forms of forced induction. I set mine up for less money and have a much better setup than i would have with the procharger. Of course the there is a lot of research and fab work involved. I couldnt begin to say how many hours i have in the research. The fab work was the easy/fun part. If i had the funds and there was enough of a market i would be building turbo cars!

Your guys's only downfall is the BB hahahahha........... Turbo forever!!!!!!!!!!!!! Turbo will have full boost by a set rpm not at peak like a cintrifigal SC. And those prochargers have a somewhat bad rap for being unreliable. I think ill stick with my turbo that was designed for oh say maybe 300K miles.... Hey those centerline wheels worked out really well on the car. I dont think i have any pics but just thought i would thank you again. Eli

Reaper, I'm running the s471 its a very good value. With the BB I would run the s475 or maybe larger. It all depends on what you want to do. Do you have a SN over at the turbo forum? mine is oldmonte If you go to the chevy section my build thread is on the third page. I custom built my entire setup and could setup yours when the time comes. Feel free to contact me with any questions. I am in ohio also in the dayton area. Good luck! BTW a s480 is considerably more than a s475.

Drag radials will spin until you get some heat in them......... just means you have to do a burnout before you accelerate :-)

From the tech person I spoke with you can only narrow it 7/16" per side without having brake problems. I belive a little more if you run the wilwoods. Problem is I have looked at ls1tech.com and the chevelle board and there are only a few people I can see running them. After I looked at all of the strange catalog I feel much better esp after seeing their topfuel type rearends!

Ha cardomain hasnt been updated in forever. Thats an A/F log also.......... The money will be the same for the two. I want to stay away from the locker because I dont want to have the driveline slop when you put it in gear. The truetrac units for diffs other than the 9" look to be so much more beefy. I am sure it will handle the power I currently am running. I havent had it on a dyno yet but I'm guessing between 550-600 at the flywheel. The key is that I can continue to bump the power up in the future without adding parts to the setup. It is tuned in very mild and at only 7psi of boost(lowest boost I can set it at). It already has more power than it needs but thats not to say I wont turn it up later on. Both setups will be bolt in. I have to get a heavy duty driveshaft so that doesnt affect decisions. The S60 is a Strange remake of the dana 60 that has all of the mounts to bolt into an a-body I can get one for $2200 with the 35 spline truetrac. 9 inch would consist of housing 345 axles 300 bearing kit 125 nodular case 350 diff 425 gears 190 setup kit 120 pinion support 105 pinion yoke 110 total: $2070 I have diff experience and tools for setup so I can do that part myself. I just think for an extra $100 I get a heavier duty setup. The only downside is that its not as easy to setup gears in the future. BTW I have no facts but I belive the reason they dont make a truetrack in the 33 or 35 spline for the 9 inch is because they couldnt handle the torque that a 35 spline axle can. The same reason you cant use a disc type posi on high HP apps there just isnt enough room in the case. A spool is out of the question as the car is 75% street. The third member swapping idea is a possibility though. I do however have a 700r4 trans and the gearing is going to come down from 4.11 currently to 3.55's The 4.11 top out at 113mph in drive. I am looking for something to top out at 130mph which the 3.55's should, maybe even 135 if I take her to 7K. I bounce back and forth daily on this decision. I want the s60 for strength and maybe looks, but I want the 9 inch for changing around if I need to. Again thanks for your opinions!

Wow I thought I would get more input on this. The 9" truetrac looks to be a very frail peice. I am leaning towards the s60 and after talking to their rep on the phone im very impressed. My only undecided factor is lack of feedback on the s60 and the ease of assembly and setup of the ford 9"

I am going to upgrade the rear in the monte this winter. Right now i am looking at Moser 9" housing with a nodular center, 31 spline truetrac and 3.55 gears. The other option is a Strange s60 with 35 spline truetrac. They both have advantages. The truetrack with 35 splines in the s-60. The 9" has less weight and easier gear setup however is only available in more than 31 splines with a detroit locker or spool. I think i want to stay away from the detriot locker because of the driveline slop associated with it. What is everyones opinions? Thanks again Eli