Rob Peters

I would have thought ground too except the brake lights and the turn signals work. Since the base of the lamp gets the ground from the lamp socket sides and the brake and the turn signals are working then it can not be the ground. As I stated before, I would first check the fuse for the parking lights and start checking the wiring from there if the fuse is good. Rob

The turn signal and brake lights use the same filament in the light bulbs. If you look at the bulbs you will see a double filament in each bulb. By the same token, if I am not mistaken, the tail lights and tag light all come back on the same wire and then are split to each light. I am not sure if the tail lights are on a seperate fuse than the front parking lights but this is the first thing I would check. If all fuses are good you will need to start tracing the wiring to find the problem. Rob ------------------ To access my website click on the picture or link below. My Two Girls http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Spray some PB Blaster on the screw heads and from the rear side. If you can get to the rear of the screws, wire brush them and respray again. Do this for about a week and then try again. If this doesn't work, remove the whole assembly, use a drill bit and drill off the HEAD of the screw only and the lens should come off so you can get a pair of vice grips on the screw and attempt to remove the rest of the screw. If this doesn't work, you can drill it out and then retap the holes. If you have to do this, be very careful drilling them out. Rob ------------------ To access my website click on the picture or link below. My Two Girls http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

I thought this would be a good one to bring back to the top. Good information on wiring harness. Rob ------------------ http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte My Two Girls Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Just bringing this to the top, good information on original style battery. Rob

I am not sure if the Restoration Package is still available from GM. When you call, have your VIN available in case they ask for it. The restoration package is only YEAR specific and not individual VIN number specific. The only reason they may ask for your VIN is to verify you infact may have a car and they can identify the year by the VIN. You can reach them by call ing 1-800-222-1020. Rob ------------------ http://www.cardomain.com/id/robsmodelamonte My Two Girls Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

I would not only ask for my money back but I would also demand they pay for any damages they created. If the refuse to comply with this request, I would then talk to a lawyer and have the lawyer send them a letter threating legal action. I have used the BBB one time and came out of the experience knowing I would never go to them again. Don't get me wrong, in some areas the BBB may be a good thing. I will describe my experience after I finish with the rest of your question I have never seen the aluminum inner fender wells, only plastic and metal. Now back to the BBB and my experience. I worked with them for 3 months attempting to get an issue resolved and after the 3 months was up I had nothing to show for all my work and patience. With the BBB, they are acting as a middle man for negotiations. First of all they told me if the party I want to persue for the problem is not a member of the BBB they told me up front they can not have any influence with the party. Second, since the party you are going after is a paying member of the BBB the BBB doesn't want lose them as a paying member. If after the period of time is up in the negotiations, if the party you are persuing has negotiated in "good faith" the the issue is considered RESOLVED. Bottom line is if you had a bad experience with them I would not go back to them for more work. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

The Chrome with I think the brushed look finish is the custom belt option. I also have them on my car. I am not sure but with the standard belt, the belt material may not have matched the interior color where with the custom belts they do. Again, I don't know if the standard belts were just black or if they in fact were color coordinated to the interior. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

The color of these depended on the interior color. I am not around my car right now but I think they were painted the same color as the steering column. I would not swear to it though. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

JohnnyB, You have come to the right place for advice, unfortunately, I can't help you with this question but numerous members who have SS's will be able to help you out. I would think if you measured the height of the rear end and then loaded the trunk down with some weight(have a few of your buddies jump in) and then take another measurement it should raise back up to the unloaded level. If I am not mistaken the car may need to be running for the system to work. Now to the important stuff, I would like to welcome you to the First Generation Monte Carlo web site. We also have a club which you are invited to join. You don't need to be a member to participate in the board but to recieve the window decal with our logo and the monthly newsletter you must join. There is a great group here with answers to most all of your questions. Very few questions have gone unanswered here. Tell us a little more about your car, color, options, condition of interior and body etc. etc. Also where you are from,(what state) we may have members in your area. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Quote: Originally posted by gene: my windshield was replaced about 2 years ago,my wiper blade is not rubbing but the arm is right were the hinged part is my the spring. i looked again and it appeared that the knurled nut looked cocked on the shaft i ordered a nut removal tool from paddock today hoping that reseat that nut will fix my problem thanks gene This is the exact place mine rubs, right where it attaches to the transmission assy and right where the arm is hinged. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Gene, My wiper arm also rubs my hood in the same place and nothing I have done has corrected this. I have even shimmed the unit which comes up through the mount. I shimmed it downward from the underside to drop it lower and the arm still rubs under the hood. I have also changed my entire transmission assy for the wipers because the pin for the articulating arm for the drivers side broke off and if I am not mistaken you must replace the entire assembly. I think at one point my windshield was replaced and I am thinking that when they installed the new windshield they may have put too much calking on it and it may stick out a little farther than it should and this may be why the wiper arm is rubbing the hood but I don't know for sure. I asked this question about the arm rubbing the hood and nobody could come up with an explination. All the hood and fender alignments look good so the hood doesn't appear to be back too far. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

I have both the Haynes and the Chiltons books and would not like to do without either of them. There are things in each one that are not in the other. I have the same Haynes book you show in your picture but my Chiltons book is more year specific plus it is about four inches thick and hard back. They both have their advantages. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Mike, I am in your area this week if you would like to meet up. I will be in Barstow tomorrow night and El Segundo on Thrusday afternoon and evening. Let me know. Rob

My 70 started doing this after I installed a new solid state voltage regulator. I assumed it has something to do with the voltage regulator being solid state and when I posted here, I had responses indicating to me that it more than likely was because of that. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Rod, If you decide to drill the holes, I have a copy of a template I could mail to you which would give the exact location to drill the holes. I only have a template for the rear. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

I know some people will tell you that you have to change a bunch of parts to switch from R12 to R34. I had mine switched over in the spring and as of the last time I took it out a week ago, it still is blowing nice cool air. Now I will tell you exactly what the mechanic changed out on mine. NOTHING!!! The mechanic hooked a pump up to it and pumped out all the old oil and R12 and then charged the system with the R34. He then checked for leaks and found none. Again, some people have since told me it will not work without changing out a bunch of parts such as the ones you mentioned in your post but mine is living proof that it may not be necessary. I know, from previous posts about this, that others in the club have done the same thing as what my mechanic did. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

I replaced mine in the spring. It is a chore but not impossible for most any backyard grease monkey. My car has Air Conditioning and it took me about 5 hours. Maybe if you don't have air, it could be done in 2 hours. Most of the work is done from the inside of the car with the top of the dash out and the area under and behind the glove box ripped apart. If you replace the core, just be very careful with the vacuum lines and which go from the control switch and the heater plentum box. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

If they are the small glass tube fuses, you could try Radio Shack or some electronics supply shops. You may even try some of the real old auto Parts stores rather than some of the newer national chains. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Quote: Originally posted by stangeba: Found this nice picture of a brand new 1970 Red Monte at the assembly plant. http://www.usauto.pl/galeria/1970%20Chev...mbly%20line.jpg This should become a permanent link available from the board. What a great picture. Do you know which assembly plant this was. Notice the fender skirts. I could look at this picture all day and keep seening somethin different. Rob

Ben, I think it is going to be a trial and error process. You may want to buy several different types and finishes and test them before you decide what looks nearest to what you are looking for. Are you talking about the same finish as is on the steering wheel on some of the First Gens? If so, I would try a silver or aluminum color. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Greg, The discussion of a manual floor shift (3 speed or 4 speed) came up here on the board awhile back and there some here in the club who had factory manual transmissions with bench seats. I know of one here in Pittsburgh which is a factory 4 speed with a bench seat on a 71 so I know they were available. BTW, I saw the build sheet on the 71 factory 4speed with bench seat. As far as a bench seat with a console, that couldn't be done because the bench seat would be where the console would be. Bottom line on a manual transmission with bench seat would be that they are rare but they do exist and as far as them being as rare as a factory SS454 with a 4 speed, we don't even want to open up that can of worms. Until someone can produce a build sheet on a factory ss454 4 speed for us here at the FGMCC, we will assume they don't exist. Now if someone can come up with a factory SS454 4 speed convertible, WITH A BUILD SHEET of course, we here at the FGMCC will be able to go to our graves with a smile on our faces. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Quote: Originally posted by greg72monte: My 72 has the original "Elk Grain" vinyl buckets, an extra cost option. I have no console, which was a separate option. It seems that this was an unusual combination. Does anyone else have buckets and no console? Any feedback? Greg Since the bucket seats and the console were two seperate options, it is possible to see cars the way yours is equipped. I think you will see that combination more often than floor shift with a bench seat. I have seen several combinations as you describe. Rob

Quote: Originally posted by wallaby: Umm...mine has both! I have a full vinyl interior, but as the years go by the stitching in the drivers' seat is letting go, and darned if there isn't the cloth stuff underneath! I thought the vinyl was the original fabric. I have all receipts and show no upholstery work. I don't know if the rear seat is the same way. Is there a way to tell what fabric was used from the trim tag? The trim tag or cowl tag as it is often refered to should indicate the interior type and interior color. Rob

I think originally most were produced with the cloth interior. My original 70 had the cloth bench and my current 70 still has the original cloth interior. This cloth interior held up very well and is reproduced in the original fabrics and colors from many of the reproduction supply houses. Until recently you wern't able to get the interior door panels for the 70 but now they are being reproduced and sold at many of the supply houses. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here