680HPStroker

It makes my head hurt to keep saying this over and over, but call your favorite cam manufactures tech line(cam help). Get an older hot rodder/racer on the line, as he/she asks you all the questions about your setup answer truthfully, and he/she will give you a cam kit part number that will be right for your application even if it means they have to grind one just for you. More times than not an off the shelf piece is in the ball park at best and not spot on for your car. Believe who you want, but that is truth.

The whole point of the tall valve covers is to ad stud girdles to not only strengthen the valve train, but cut way down on adjusting valves. I only do it once, or twice a year, but it really sucks. I'd like to be able to go two years at least without going through that crap. Glad I waited just a bit longer. I found a set of tall, polished, swept, marine valve covers from a place called Hardine Marine. They have 3 -16AN holes(size I already have) holes. Two for breathers and one for and oil file cap. I just ordered then. The pt# is 620-44050. I cant wait to get these puppies. They are immediately going on. Engraving and chroming can come later.

Believe who you want. All I know is a Torque Tech 3.5" into 3" X-pipe exhaust system helped my 489 pump gas BB make 533HP to the wheels on a chassis dyno at 6,300rpm's(sounding as mean as a snake). If that don't convince you, well I can't help you.

If we are talking about Moroso pt# 68776 it says that they don't clear stud girdles. Too bad as they would have been nice to have.

Got ya Dave as I did misunderstand. Unless those baffled grommets will clear stud girdles I wouldn't be able to use them. I have no baffles now and don't have any issues. Baffles are nice insurance though.

Thanks for the info, but I'll never run a street car without a PCV valve. Experience has taught me that. PCV on one cover and a breather one the other equals a happy crankcase/oiling system.

Good stuff guys Thanks.

Either Amsoil, or Royal Purple 10w40 will do the trick. Both have a type with a high zinc content. I've used both and get the same results. I only change my oil once a year as I'm lucky if I put 2,000 miles on my Monte. For my daily drivers I use Valvoline full synthetic(one truck and one car) and change the oil between 4-5,000 miles. Don't car much for what folks say about oil change intervals. I'll do mine and they can do theirs as they like, plus it's my money anyway. Hope that helps.

They are pricey, but BeCool is tough to beat in all kinds of heat(hey I made a rhyme). With my Flex-a-lite dual fans I've never came close to 200 degrees even in 95 degree temps with sickening humidity.

Looks like you are coming along nicely. As it's already been stated don't cut corners on anything as you will regret it later. If money is the issue wait untill you can afford the next step. If a 500HP LS2 Firebird can get 29mpg on the highway there is no reason why at the same power level if you shave off 300lbs your monty you can't get the same mpg with the correct gearing. I still want to build an old school street rod(late 40's/very early 50's) with a similar type setup. I would rape a donor car/cars for all I could get that was needed and fabricate everything else. I'd have heat, a/c, cruise, and power everything. I see that kind of project eating up around %40K, but just imagine how cool it would be. I've seen some folks who have tried this, but they always cut corners somewhere and it detracts from what the beauty of the car could/should be. One can always dream. Maybe one day when I cash in my redneck retirement plan I'll be able to build one. Anyway, good luck and can't wait to see the finished project.

The nice thing about Torque Tech is all the hard work is done. Everything is mandrel bent. all you have to do is weld it up, install the hangers, and you are ready to go. Nothing to measure worrying about making mistakes with fabrication. I agree with Dave in that if you already have a functioning H-pipe system and it's the correct diameter for your setup I wouldn't change it, but if you are starting fresh, or you need to replace due to you need bigger pipes it's a much friendlier way to go.

I found what I need. They are marine BB Chevy valve covers. A couple companies out on the waest coast make them. They have angled sides on the outside to clear marine exhaust manifolds. I had a guy give me some dimentions and they will clear a factory 11" brake booster. I'm getting them in the polished version with no holes drilled(up charge)and have a local machine shop drill my PVC and breather holes. I'll locate them exactly where my GM Performance valve cover holes are now so there will be no need to re-route anything. I won't go for a third hole for an oil fill cap. If I need to add oil I'll do it through the breather hole. After they are drilled I'm thinking of having then engraved with a bow tie and my engine size which is 489 and then have them chromed. That way I'll never have to listen to anyone say "that ain't nothing, but a crate motor"(never seen a crate motor from GM with AFR heads). It cracks me up when I hear it, but it get's old and I stopped correcting folks a long time ago.

I know this question has been asked before(even once by me I think), but I'm looking for a company if there is such and animal that makes a set of chrome tall BB valve covers that will clear a factory 11" brake booster? I thought I'd heard of on that would work from a marine company that is flater on the outside, but have lost the info. Thank you. I'm not looking to change my brake setup. If I can't find what I'm looking for I'll just stay the way I am.

Lot's of folks will chime in with their own opinions, but anyone who has put in an x-pipe system from Torque Tech has never been disappointed. They specialize in GM "A" body cars.

Go with new. I believe in overkill so think about what your performance dreams are for down the road and buy that radiator now. That way you buy one that will take you through your whole performance transition. Sure it will be pricey, but you got pay right in order to play right. If you have a clutch fan I'd replace it(me I'm partial to electric fans), and add a new 180 degree thermostat. Other than that backflush your whole cooling system before you add the new radiator and thermostat. Better to start fresh and clean with your new investment.

Another Torque Tech satisfied customer. I know I've been one for five years and counting. 3.5" to 3" X-pipe system bought back when the BB went in. Mine isn't as aggressive sounding with Dynomax mufflers, but I did that on purpose. I like to suprise people by blowing there doors off without telling the world about it.

Cooper Cobra's were recommended to me as a replacement for BFG. I'm starting to think Michilen has lost interest in the BFG Radial T/A tire line. Lot's of folks are having issues and they can be hard to come by. When my fronts go I won't be replacing them with BFG's. If I end up keeping my car it will be going the cruiser route vs race car and all my wheels/tires will be replaced with larger diameter pieces. Makes for a lot more tire options where you can even have a "W", or a "Z" rated tire for handling. Big brakes will be on all four corners as well. The old reliable 15" wheels are becoming a thing of the past.

It's been said a thousand times, or more that no two setups are exactly alike. No off the shelf/re-built stock converter for another car will do the job correctly. You have to have a converter build especially for your application, or you leave a lot of power and even economy on the table instead of at thw wheels. Not to mention the potential for disaster when the tranny, or converter blows up.

Got my answer from a Year One catalog. $426.00 for all new if the lower arms are boxed. I figure if the lowers aren't drop that down from $219.00 a set to $175.00 and you have it about right. So new they would be $382.00 for all four. So 50% of new is $191.00 and 25% would be $95.50, so I think I'll just let him talk me down to $80.00 and call it a day.

Thanks, but that doesn't help. Maybe I'll contact Leo. He should know.

Oops, just realized should have been in the suspension section. Sorry.

How much are a complete set of used, non boxed factory upper and lower control arms worth? I have friend who wants to buy them, but have no idea what they are worth. He plans on buying a kit to box them in himself. Thanks.

Just remember you get what you pay for. I'd rather pay up front and have a set that are ready to bolt on with the specs I need/want. Lot's of imported crap out there these days making lot's of promises, but never deliver. Personally I'd stick to the old tried and true companies that are still casting their heads right here in the good ole USA.

Either tranny will work for you, but there isn't a one tranny that fits all Monte applications. If you are doing the installation work yourself I wish you luck as it as it can and most likely will be a PITA. If you let a shop do it who has experience with these swaps you will just pick up your car and enjoy. That is providing your tranny was built stout enough for your application, your yokes are up to the task, your u-joints are 1350 series, and your torque converter is strong enough and is built right for your application. To many folks have done these swaps on the cheap and have paid for it down the road. It's all up to you. Good luck.

No such animal as an inexpensive torque converter if you want the right converter for your application. Just fork over the bones and have someone like Coan, Yank, ATI, or some other pro outfit spec one out for you and let them build it for you.