TheBMan

So I found an OEM three-groove crank pulley, which seems to be where this mess started (damn aftermarket parts). I'm going to replace that and see if it helps. 🤞

Hey guys, I need a complete set of original equipment (not reproduction) pulleys for a 1970 small block with A/C. This would include: Three-groove crank pulley Two-groove power steering pulley Single-groove water pump pulley Please, I do not want any reproduction parts. I added A/C and purchased a three-groove crank pulley and two-groove power steering pump pulley and it's been like trying to level the legs on a table trying to get all of the belts lined up. 😵‍💫 I'd rather find an OE set and have them sandblasted and powder coated; should have done that to begin with. Let me know if you can help. Thanks!

Welcome to the group! You will find the guys around here to be super helpful and full of great information.

I had a local company do it. More and more companies who do powder coating are doing Cerakote. I can't explain the process other than knowing the baking or curing process is done at a lower temperature than powder coating; around 200° I think (compared to 400°+ for powder coating) which makes it applicable for plastics. I restored a motorcycle and Cerakoted all of the plastics to restore the faded finish. https://www.cerakote.com/cerakote-industries/automotive

Thanks Mark! Cerakote is very similar to powder coating except the 'baking' temperature is much lower so you can coat metal parts that have plastic or rubber parts that can't be removed (seals, for example) and it can also be used to refinish/coat plastic. It has a durable finish that is very heat resistant.

Thanks Joe! My attention to detail is a blessing and a curse. Yep, very few aftermarket parts are truly "bolt on". Funny not funny. LOL

As usual, lots of great info from @jft69z. I just finished a complete custom install of the Classic Auto Air system in my '70 Monte Carlo (uses the Chevelle kit and they supply longer hoses). I'm going to post a detailed outline of my review in the near future but I chose the Classic Auto Air system mostly because it retains use of the original dash vent outlets on both sides plus the two center vents are supplied to replace the "Chevrolet" blank knock-out plate that's in place in non-a/c cars above the HVAC controls. Also, I chose the S6 compressor for the reasons that Joe outlined: fits in place of the original A6 using the factory brackets and far more reliable and efficient than the old A6's. I had my compressor Cerakoted satin black and made a custom cover so it more closely resembles the A6 in addition to a custom decal to apply that mimics the original but has the correct specs. I also replaced the stainless hardware on the compressor with black (screws) so it all matches. Don't be fooled, these kits are not "bolt in" despite what they tell you. They all need some modification and/or fabrication. I spent two months in my spare time and did a lot of custom work including the compressor, face plate for the control panel, and firewall block-off panel. I've been happy with the sales and support that I've received. Attached are a couple of photos. More to come in another post sometime in the future.

I Just commented on engine oil the other day. I prefer synthetic oil because of it's superior protection and lubrication properties. I use Wix filters. https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/31440-1972-mc-350auto-tune-up/#comment-269879

Regarding engine oil, I contacted Mobil 1 because I prefer synthetic oils over conventional oils and I wanted to be sure whatever oil I used has sufficient zinc. Zinc is critical for flat tappet camshaft engines. Below is the response directly from Mobil 1. By the way, I use the 5W-40 European Car Formula. I also use a Wix 51060 oil filter which has the anti-drainback valve. ----------- Thank you for writing to us. One of our criteria is usually to focus on oils with 1000 parts per million of zinc or better, to take good care of a flat tappet camshaft. We've got several oils that fit this profile. One great option is our Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 “European Car Formula.” This has a zinc content of 1000ppm, and will recoat your bearings a bit faster than a 5W-40 or 10W-40 can at engine start up. We also have the same product in a 5W-40. https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-fs-0w-40/ https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-fs-5w-40/ If the engine is running a bit hotter, and can benefit from a 50, we have Mobil 1 15W-50, with a zinc content of 1320ppm. https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-15w-50/ Finally, we have Mobil 1 FS X2 5W-50 with a zinc content of 1000ppm. This oil can be hard to find on the shelf, though. https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-fs-x2-5w-50/

Joe T called me and we talked through things and came up with what I think is a great solution. Use the existing heater fuse for one of the sources (since the original blower motor has been replaced by the new unit) Use the IGN spade for the other source Viola! Thanks @jft69z!

I need to power two sources, each rated at 20amps max and each having their own inline fuse. Does the IGN port on the fuse block provide enough amperage to do this safely? If so, I plan to use a double spade connector. If not, what are your suggestions about the best way to wire/power these two sources?

Yeah, looks like they pulled the ad or sold it. Someone got a lot of Monte Carlo for the price (assuming it sold).

Check out the interesting options on this '71 on Facebook Marketplace. I think it would make a great project car. This car is about 30 minutes from me if anyone wants me to look at it for them. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2264997950512607/

I purchased an A/C kit from Classic Auto Air but I wasn't happy with the appearance of the HVAC control unit faceplate; it looked too modern. I wanted something that was more era-appropriate for my 1970 so I made some changes. First, I measured the faceplate and control slots from all directions. I then made a template in Adobe Illustrator and created the artwork that would go over top of the original CAA faceplate. I had them professionally printed and I cut the slots using an Exacto knife and straight edge. Next, I asked a buddy of mine who has a laser cutting machine to use those measurements to cut a piece of thin acrylic plastic to go over top of the new faceplate artwork. I secured it with a very thin strip of tape that will be hidden behind the dash trim when installed. I didn't like/want the black knobs that came with the CAA unit, so I bought new (reproduction) control knobs and drilled them for set screws. I pieced it all together and viola! Something that's much more appropriate for 1970. I don't think a casual observer will even notice. Attached are images of the original control unit/faceplate, the CAA unit before mods, the new artwork and clear faceplate cover and all pieced together.

Welcome! Looks like you have your work cut out for you! There is a wealth of knowledge here so feel free to light 'em up with your questions!

OPGI is awful. I try very, very hard to not buy from them whenever possible. They use shipping as a profit center, they're slow AF, and their customer service is horrible. Summit is fantastic; their customer support has never been anything short of amazing. Plus, for me, I live in Central Ohio so I can order from Summit late in the evening and still receive items the next day at no additional charge. Also, I live about 10 miles from the Jegs distribution center so that's helpful, too. I will-call stuff from Jegs regularly. They aren't quite as responsive as Summit but they do a good job.

Eh, it's plastic rather than the metal original but I suppose if you need a grill, it'll do. Finding or restoring an original metal grill will set you back at somewhere around $2k.

I would recommend testing all of your dash bulbs before you put the dash back together. You can do this by plugging in the large main connector to the cluster housing and then ground the metal case to the dash frame or some other known good ground. Turn your lights on. Look to make sure all of the bulbs are illuminated. I found that some of mine needed the connection "tweaked". The metal tangs on the back of the bulb socket often need bent a little bit to ensure a good connection the printed circuit board. Check it before to make sure or you'll be taking the dash back apart when you discover some of your lights aren't lit up.

The car looks legit and solid. https://www.facebook.com/share/Yj7fDH3PcJoCpxgu/?mibextid=79PoIi

Yes 👍 it says it has a Clifford alarm.

This car has some issues, it will be interesting to see the comments and how the auction plays out. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-chevrolet-monte-carlo-28/

Distilled water is stripped of minerals during distillation and, as a result, the metals in your engine and cooling system will be siphoned back into the water leaving your metals vulnerable and possibly weakened. This doesn't happen overnight but it definitely happens. The same is the reason why it's bad for you to drink distilled water; it sucks the minerals out of your body. I didn't read anything from anyone about using pre-mixed antifeeze. I use the pre-mixed antifreeze from NAPA.

Those houndstooth bucket seats are awesome!

I agree with @MC1of80 and @cbolt, sounds like valve stem seals or guides. Rings would smoke continuously. A wet/dry compression test will tell you a lot.

Yes, thank you for pointing out the lack of capacity. Also, I read stories about the shuttering of power plants. Shameful.