rotinrob

The thing with brakes is it depends on how you are going to use them and the tire suspension combination. Drag only cars have different requirements than a road race car. Stock brakes work well for stock (normal?) driving they could get you killed if you are canyon carving. A test I like to do is to accelerate to a high speed (whatever you are comfortable with really bad brakes will show themselves at legal speeds) come to nearly a full stop and repeat at least 3 times (or until the brakes scare you) as quick as the car will accelerate to the speed you were using. If after the 3rd time the brakes still work than the brakes are suitable for how you drive. If you are comfortable at 40 mph doing this most brakes will pass, if you are comfortable doing this at 100 mph fully stock brakes might scare you. I had a Mustang GT that I did a full performance stop from the cars top speed (somewhere north of 140 mph) The stock brakes failed after 1 stop, smoke was rolling and the rotors cracked. Needless to say that car got an upgrade because I drove that car hard. If I drove the GT "normally" I would rate them as marginal (140 mph car 50 mph brakes). Monte brakes are good for some spirited driving with proper pads/shoes, good lines/hoses/hydraulics, and the proper fresh fluid. I am changing my SS from straight line to touring car so a brake upgrade is in progress. rotin

I don't have any pictures but I would use the forward mounts at the firewall and the bumper bracket mounts at the rear, make a bracket that looks like the factory bumper mount that bolts to the rotisserie. Maybe a bracket to the rear body mount too. The bumper jack was lifting the whole car from there so should be strong enough. just remember to brace the body inside especially if doing any cutting on the panels or floor while on the rotisserie. Plenty of pictures on the web of Chevelles on rotisseries, similar car. rotin

My 70 Assembly Manual shows the pipe assemble as 3975944 and the fuel pump as 6440768 (Delco #40768) The illustration is of a long pump but the illustration can be wrong in the AM. My 71 AM shows the pipe as 3986193 and the fuel pump as 6440868 with the illustration showing the long pump. Check with Classic Muscle they usually list parts by the GM number and they show the 3975944 for $23.00 in stainless steel but not the 3986193 (listed as CPC7101(s)). Also says with long pump I believe the 6440768 is in the clocking on the fuel pump. Haven't found the GM service part numbers. Please note that I have never bought a line set that screwed right together. I think I bought 3 for my 70 L78 Camaro to get 1 decent fitting set of lines. rotin

For the cost and piece of mind they provide buy a new harness, unless of course you have a survivor type car. Plus you can get an HEI/non resistor wire harness. Some places might also remove the TCS wiring if you would like to not have those wires hanging around. I have used many different suppliers on projects in the past and all the usual suspects provide decent stuff but don't toss the original harness as I have found some connecters are different color than the original. Changed all the harnesses on my 70 SS except the under dash with minimal disassembly required. Also needed to do some modification to the distributor feed (HEI type harness) to work with the mini starter. The mini starter only had a start terminal so I hooked the other wire to the starter feed side of the solenoid (only hot when the starter is engaged) through a diode to prevent back feeding in run mode from the switched wire in the harness. This provides maximum voltage to the ignition while the engine is cranking just as the General had planed. Probably not needed unless running high compression big blocks. rotin

FYI from the parts manual Group 6.524 They were inexpensive by todays standards rotin

Thanks rotin

I could use a complete compressor. I do not have a core to exchange rotin

Depends on the block and what you intend to do with it. Some latter blocks are also 454 casting and can take a large overbore without problems. Get it sonic checked or buy one they are much less expensive than they were years ago. Just remember that most blocks have thinner walls on the non-thrust side to save iron. The big problem is the cost of pistons as you will not be using an off the shelf piston and 396/402 blocks are plentiful and inexpensive if true numbers matching is not needed, plus starting with a standard block gives options down the road. rotin

I'm using BMR tubular with Chassis Works AFX billet spindles, Eaton stock rate springs with a larger swaybar on my 70 SS car. Also have a Grand Cherokee steering box. This dropped the front about 1/2 inch. A set of old Good Year tires on 15 inch rallies. Handles much better than stock but time to work on the rear suspension. The 255 60 Drag Radials on the back don't help the rear steering much. rotinrob