Whons

Well got the whole rear end buttoned up. Had dry roads today, took it for a drive 🚗

I always fill with gas and stabilizer. When we get a mild day say 40 I'll start mine back it out of the garage and run it for at least 20 to 30 min to bring it up to operating temperature. Keep a trickle charger on the battery.

Thanks James. I did use vernier and micrometers. With the press fit I made them they aren't going to move

I don't think you guys are understanding. I made them a good press fit. They were .016 to large. there is now way in heck that you are going to press a bushing into a bore that is .016 larger than the bore. Trust me I made them a good press fit.

Well the the installation of the new upper rear control arms is not going well. Lucky I have a lathe, the upper metal bushings were .016 to large in diameter. Had to turn them down. Then the rear axle rotated down and pulled the drive shaft out of the transmission. Then I had a friend come over to help. It looks like the upper arms are good but we can't push the axle forward. Looks like the parking brake cables are preventing it. So I'm going to remove them. I need a couple days of rest before I continue. I've pulled engines easier than this job.

Yes all good ideas. I have a lathe and Mill. I always am making special sleeves for installing bushings and bearings.

Thanks before I put the new ones in I'm going to clean out the ID with emery clloth and grease the bushings. I've done a lot of work making press fits and slip fits as a machinist

Thanks everyone for the info. I made a mistake. I have it supported on the frame now. I can see what you mean. I have room to get at those bushings on the differential. I'm going to use a small ball carbide end mill with a die grinder and cut thru one wall to get them out. And I have a big monkey wrench to straighten the bracket.

I have the car on wooden blocks under the tires just as it would be on the road.

Got a little problem. I had already swapped the boxed lower rear control arms from my 70 to my new 71. so I decided to replace the short upper ones as well. Got the driver rear out and when I finally got the front bolt out, I felt the car shift a little. The rear driver side lower bracket on the frame bent. Any advise how I'm going to be able to straighten that when I put the new upper ones in? Also couldn't get the upper bushing on the differential out, drilled all the rubber out and just have the metal sleeve to cut out. Know big deal, but am worried about the lower bracket. Attached a picture.

Thanks for the info and the picture.

Does the engine have a high performance camshaft?

Nice. I like the floor jack method

Congratulations. Me and my wife Kathy just celebrated 30 years in August.

I always run the vacuum hose to my advance on the distributor to full manifold vacuum. Time the engine to specs with the hose removed and plugged, then to make sure that it is working rev the throttle and make sure the mark on the harmonic balancer moves farther in the advanced direction. I have always done it this way on all my SBC's that I have owned. I have even had arguments over this. A lot of guys think it should be run to ported vacuum. That was only done on newer cars once they started putting emission controls on. Let me know what anyone thinks about this subject.

Very NICE car. a lot of work you put into it.

These wheels were on my 71 when I bought it. First car I had without rallies

That's a shame. I hope he gets it back and not ruined.

It's the most heavy duty I could find. I know it will work well.

Here's the pictures of my new spring compressor

Thanks again to everyone. when I get the new tool I will post a picture.

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the advice. I found a much better and heavier internal spring compressor. When I get it I will post a picture no comparison to the one I showed earlier. With it I feel that I can do it safely. I want to do it at home because I want to clean up and paint the control arms. And take my time.

The hooks on the compressor looked the same thickness at Advance auto as the ones on Ebay

Also consider buying one or loaning one from advance auto

I'll be changing my front springs this coming spring. Just getting ready with all parts. I have watched a few you tube videos. I basically understand the process. I've attached a picture of a internal spring compressor. Does this fit up through the inside of the spring after the shock is removed? It looks like a slot is in the lower control arm to fit it up through. Also I see using a chain from the spring to the frame for safety. Please advise. Thanks Wayne