Whons

Bought another Monte. Couldn't pass it up. A 1971 survivor with a very nice Paint Job. 44000 original miles. Have a lot of work to do, but that keeps me busy. I'm selling my 1970 Dark Metallic Cherry one with the 700r4 Transmission. Joe T. helped me with the AC and installed a higher Stall Converter.

I found mine on Rock Auto. Just had to reuse the little hold off valve that goes to the front brakes. put it in with a new power brake booster. works well looks just like original.

I found mine on Rock Auto. Wayne

Buy the set of 4 and sell the ones you don't want on Ebay. My 70 Monte came with rear fender skirts, which I didn't want so I sold them on Ebay. You will always find someone who wants them.

Dale, Joe is going to help me with the torque converter after the AC. I'm confident now with the TV cable, just popping it off the ball on carb. link and removing a 10 mm bolt that holds the cable housing to the transmission, then pulling up on the cable, it will have some slack and take the hook out of the link, we'll keep the link from falling back into the transmission. see my diagram fig.1. We won't loose any adjustment. Then with the new torque converter I won't lose about 700 rpm when I drop it in gear. I WILL BE SO HAPPY!!!!! Wayne

My Monte carlo has an air ride suspension with 2 inch drop spindles. I just set it to a stance that I like. A little higher in the rear.

Dale, You would have to see it, but option 1 removing at the transmission would be the best. you don' want to lose the position of the adjustment. Here's some pictures. Wayne

Thanks for the info. I thought after removing the TV cable at the transmission the link would fall back into the transmission and I was going to have to clamp it I was going to use a small vise grips with some layers of tape on the jaws. The rest I understand.

Joe You have to disconnect the TV cable at the transmission on a 700r4 because of the way its mounted with a special bracket at the carb. That's where it is adjusted and the bracket is mounted on 2 of the intake manifold bolts, and the adjusting portion is fixed within the bracket. you can't disturb that cable at the carb. the TV cable has a hook on the end that hooks to a link in the transmission. You clamp the link so it stays in place and tie the cable out of the way. That way you won't lose the adjustment. I'll send you some pictures later. Wayne.

Welcome, I have a 70 Monte my self. And I had a 1981 Camaro that I bought new. Wish I would have kept it.

Thanks Joe.

I am going to be removing the 700r4 from my 70 Monte to put in a new higher stall torque converter. Can you get at all the bolts from below with the car on a lift? Then what is the best way to support the 350 engine? Can you support it with another another jack under the oil pan? My TV cable is properly adjusted now. When I remove it from the transmission, if I clamp the link that the hook on the end of the cable goes into, and reconnect it when the transmission is mounted back in, I would think that the TV cable will still be adjusted properly. I had paid to have the TV cable adjusted when I got the car about a year ago. Thanks, Wayne

Thanks Bill. Wayne

I'm just looking for it to idle without stalling at a stop light. Thanks Dale.

I want to get different peoples knowledge about having a radical camshaft, needing a higher RPM Stall converter so the engine idles good in gear. I've done a lot of research on this and almost all info. says a higher RPM stall converter will let the engine idle better in gear. I even saw some info. from someone who said the engine will stall every time you stop. I even called Summit and they confirmed with the cam that I have, I need a higher stall converter. I tested Summit's knowledge about the year of my 700R4 transmission, and they confirmed the same info. for the year of my transmission (82) which I already knew. So I think the info. for the Converter they recommended is good. Any input from others is appreciated. Thanks, Wayne.

Thanks guys I will remember this for future reference. Joe T is going to help me put a new AC Compressor in my 70 and check out the whole system. I live in Rochester, NY and He's in Niagara Falls, NY. So not far away. I've changed engines and transmissions, but don't know a lot about AC. After that my next project will be to change the Torque Converter. I have a 700R4 Trans. and I Did some research with the number on the housing and found out it is a 1982 with a 27 spline input shaft. I called Summit and they confirmed that I was correct on the year, and with the Summit #7102 Camshaft that's in the engine told me to put a 2200 - 2800 RPM Stall Converter in it. So I feel confident that this will work out well.

I recently replied to a post about removing the AC condenser. I may have been wrong. So is it true that the front bumper has to be removed to remove the condenser? I'd like to know this for future reference. I took a look at my front bumper and it has new bolts 🔩 in it. Thanks Wayne

Andrew, So just for future reference, you do have to remove the front bumper to to get the condenser out? Wayne

That's true. Hopefully it helps someone else. I can't believe that you would have to take the the bumper off.

I think you made more work for yourself. I took some pictures of my 70 Monte Carlo. It looks to me like you would have to take the top mounting brackets off on each side. Take off the horns and hood latch, and the accumulator tank (drier),and the hard line that goes to the accumulator, and all the hard lines that attach to the condenser. There are some small hex head screws down below. Not sure if they need to be removed or not. but with all the above removed you will be able to tell if the condenser is loose, If it isn't you would be able to reach them from above with a 1/4 ratchet. I think you could pull the hood latch bracket away far enough and use some zip ties to the grill. Then I would think you could remove the condenser from. The top. Please other members, read my post to see if I'm correct, and reply to help Dale out. Thanks Wayne.

If my memory is correct, for each lb of pressure you raise the boiling point by 3 degrees.

I don't know a lot about clutch fans. I'm sure all the advise that has been given to you is correct. Try a simple thing . when the engine gets up to operating temp. try to squeeze the upper radiator hose. it should feel firm. if you can squeeze it the system is not holding pressure. put a new radiator cap on. I've had that type of problem in the past on many sbc engines. You might even see a permanent impression in the rubber gasket on the old cap.

Thanks for the positive comments. Wayne

Looking forward to meeting some of you guys and girls.

Thanks everyone. I like the pillar gage It was on the car 🚗 when I got it. Wayne