USMCBLB125

You could always do this!!

I disagree with the pick a manufacturer any manufacturer approach. They all make unique headers with different bends, sizes, and styles. I'd ask the guy if he'd mind letting you see if you can drop the motor in with the headers on, and if they don't fit, get a refund. However, if you're not ready to drop a motor in, I'd just hold off and make sure I got the right ones the first time, unless of course you're getting them on the cheap.

Any update on the price, or when they will start accepting orders?

I ran a Victor Jr. no problems at all.

We're forgetting that he has a small block already and he wanted to know how the best ways to get more out of it. Big block was never in the equation.

As far as what parts to use to build up a small block, the possibilities are endless, and it all starts with your budget. If you're trying to build on the cheap, you can start with a set of cast vortec heads, but if you have the extra coin you can get decent aluminum heads on the cheap too. Just make sure all the components that you choose mesh well together. Especially your cam. Your best bet is to get an idea in mind and call some cam manufacturers and ask them what they recommend for your set up. They can point you in the right direction.

If you want to run 11's or 12's none of that stuff is necessary. A good 350 or 383 combo with around 450-500 HP (flywheel) will get you in the 12-12.4 range. If you're approaching 650 HP you're already in the mid 10's. Using nitrous will severely degrade your motor's longevity. Especially since it doesn't seem like it built with nitrous in mind. Simply having forged pistons isn't really enough to consider an engine nitrous friendly. I really wouldn't recommend this route, however, that's just my opinion and there are many people who live and die by nitrous and will disagree with me A turbo set up will cost you in excess of 5k (probably much more) and will require a lot of custom tubing/headers etc, and again if your motor wasn't built with a boost application in mind you really wont see the full benefits. So long story short if your goal is just high 11's low 12's just beef up your small block and you'll be fine. Personally, I like the 'cool factor' of boost applications and i'll be using a procharger set up with a SBC.

I had an auburn posi and richmond gears, and what Scott mentioned happened to my unit. The car was gone before I had a chance to rebuild it, so I never got to see what happend. I just know I was doing a burnout at the track and only one wheel was spinning. Pretty embarassing on car with 500+ HP and everything thinks you're running without a posi lol.

Here!

Yeah, well i've been doing some reading and I've definitely sold myself on a procharger, but I've changed my plans a little. I want to start with around 400-440 HP flywheel before the procharger, and then depending on the difference in cost I'll order either a P1SC, D1SC or F1. I've ordered the packet though and read through the one they have online. I'm think i'm going to order a 383 from ATK performance, and add the procharger later. I have a tendency to get carried away!

Thanks for all the input so far. As far as what I want to do with the car... I want it to be quick but streetable. It may see the track on a test and tune day just so I can see what she runs, but bracket racing or anything of the like aren't in my plans. I'd like to end up with around 500 HP. I'm sure it's much easier and cheaper to do with a big block, but like Scott said the blown sbc just has a cool factor to it.

Hey all, I'm trying to decide whether to go with a blown small block or a NA big block. However, I want to keep the stock hood. Does anyone know of a supercharger/small block setup that will fit under the stock hood? If not I guess it makes my choice easy!

Wallaby, Larger rotors dissipate heat faster because they have more surface area for the heat to escape. Similar to a heatsink on electronic devices. Heat moves from areas of higher heat to areas of lower heat, and the more material that you have exposed to those areas of lower heat the faster the process goes.

I ran into a guy who had one installed. He ran some sort of fuel injector into his tail pipe too. That way he didn't have to run his engine rich. Not exactly sure what he did though, just kind of bumped into him on a cruise night.

Thanks Rob, I'll check them out

Hmmm. I hadn't really considered a 700R4. I've heard they were too expensive to build, and withstand substantive HP, compartively to a 350 or 400. And I have a bit of a speed streak and I don't know that I'd be happy with 5-600 HP

I guess I was a little ambiguous, and I hadn't considered everything you had mentioned Allan. I basically want a quick cruiser. I may bring it to the track every now and then on test'n'tune days for kicks but I don't have any plans to race competitively. My goals are a 454 with 500-600 HP TH400 trans, and probably a 3.73 gear. I'd like to end up with mid to low 12's in the 1/4. I Suppose this has strayed a little from my original topic buy I'm interested in what some of you think is the best way to approach this set up. Thanks for all of the advice already.

I was looking into the Gear Vendors under/overdrive unit, and I've seen other members mention it on here, but are there any other quality kits anyone is aware of. I don't necessarily need an overdrive unit rated up to 1250 HP I'm looking closer to 600-650.

There are people locator services, etc. that can search for VIN numbers. It costs some money but may be worth it if you getting back your SS. Never done it but something to look into.