Toppless72

Charlie, If I understand your description, unfortunately, you've gotten a little ahead of yourself. Once you get the bearing housing on and the pivot pins installed your now ready to install the locking pin, locking pin spring, ignition rack, sector gear, and sector gear snap ring. All of these go on before you install the turn signal housing (What I call the upper bowl). Slide the locking pin into its bore with the flat side facing down. Slide the sector gear onto the lock cylinder rod lining it up with the ignition rack. Insure the rotation will align the large tooth on the gear with the proper position on the rack. Install the snap ring. Loop the hook of the lock rod spring into the groove at the lower end of the lock rod. Rotate the lock rod spring's long end to the rest position and install the screw to hold it in place. (Take care to insure the loop of the spring that extends into the sector gear is in the proper position.) Rotating the lock cylinder rod to the run position will withdraw the lock pin into the bearing housing to its shortest position. Align the upper bowl over the bearing housing and start pushing it down. Assure the lock pin is entering its bore as you slide it down. Once it's seated you can install the 3 screws. Try that and let us know how you're doing. JC

As I understand it, the painted sport mirror was a left side only unit. There never was a painted right side sport mirror for a first gen M/C. Maybe others can chime in on this to confirm. JC

Charlie, It sounds like you're becoming a first class column expert. LOL The switch provides all the detent positioning for the ignition rod and rack movement. Therefore, the only position that's critical at the lock cylinder is the lock position. This is so you can get the key out. Place the switch in the second detent position opposite of the start position. Place the lock cylinder in the lock position. Mount the switch to the column and leave the bolts for it loose so that it will slide up and down as you rotate the lock cylinder. Center the lock cylinder in the lock position. Tighten the bolts to the switch until they hold the switch in place. Rotate the key to the start position to insure you are reaching the spring back point. Rotate the key back to the lock position. Press in slightly and turn it to the accessory position. Make fine tune adjustments with the switch until all positions are reached. Adjusting the switch is one of the last parts of the operation so you'll need to be at a point where you can hook up the battery power to insure you're making contact with the starting circuit when you're adjusting the position of the switch. JC

Charlie, Never did the '06 Impala job. Once I cleared the code which turned the MIL off he said, "Well, It looks like you fixed it". I told him it would most likely come back on but he's put about 300 miles on it since then and no light so far. I guess we'll see. It takes a special socket to tighten those bearing housing support screws. You can buy one or do as I did and modify one to fit with a grinder. Your other option is to use a quarter inch drive/6MM socket. It also works well. Good luck and let us know how your doing. JC

Yep, P2070 IMT valve "stuck open". I found the part at a GM parts warehouse for $71.00. I guess I'll be tearing off the power steering pump to get to the valve Saturday morning. Later, JC

Charlie, I'm glad you got the bearing housing off. The first time you're in there it can be a little unnerving because there is so many parts but once you get over that it's not that bad. When I have them apart, I re-grease everything that moves. Just a little on the tilt joint and all the bearings, and the lock shoes etc. will do it. Use grease that will handle the heat of the cabin. Otherwise it will tend to drip out on a very hot day. I use a Valvoline Synthetic grease p/n 986 but I'm sure there are others that would work just as good. I'm currently replacing the intake manifold tuning valve on my neighbor's 2006 Impala. I'd rather be doing the job you're working on. Working on the steering column offers many benefits. You don't get dirty, you don't have to bend over, and you can sit on your behind. Now that's what I call a good job. LOL I understand about intermittent problems. They can drive you crazy. I have a little Dodge Dakota that idles where ever it wants. Anywhere from 600 to 1100 RPMs and there is no rhyme or reason as to when it idles fast or slow. I still haven't figured it out yet. Once you start putting your column back together drop me a note if you get into trouble.

Charlie, Well, finding out it's a tilt column is a bonus then. For the moment, you can use a long bolt that will thread into the shoe release lever. It's the raw steel piece that can be seen in your picture just above and to the rear of the ignition rack location. You can use the bolt for a release lever until you acquire one. Also, if I use a part name you’re not sure of just let me know. I try to avoid using terms like “the little round thingy” or “doohicky” when possible. You’re very close to reaching your objective so Monty on! Let us know how you’re doing.

Charlie, First ask as many questions as you wish. I just wish I was close enough to stop by and help you out. Now, install your tilt lever into the shoe release lever and pull it toward you while tilting the bearing housing up. This will release the bearing housing from the bearing housing support. The lock shoes will slip out allowing the bearing housing to come off. The screws that will need to be tightend are in the bearing housing support directly under the bearing housing. """It will not come off without pulling the shoe release lever toward you."""" Just one thing is still causing me to scratch my head. Are you saying you believe the column you’re working on is not a tilt column? If that's what you're saying your incorrect on this point. It is a tilt column. Just want to confirm. Try this and let us know what happens. JC

Yes, The horn relay on mine is just above and to the right of the booster.

Just chiming in to confirm another set up. My 72 doesn't have the junction block. Off the solenoid where the battery positive is connected there is a red 4 gauge wire that runs to the horn relay. In the line is a fuseable link. My positive cable at the battery does not have any small wires going anywhere.

When I was in the business of being an OEM parts supplier it was very common for a number of new model cars to be built prior to the official SOP (start of production) date. These units were used for promotional photos for the sales brochures, executive appeasement, fit and finish studies, crash tests, dealer teaser units, and employee training. They were known as "pilot" cars and were also required to be "sellable units". It is very common these were built as much as 6 weeks prior to SOP. This was done to allow time for necessary tooling and set up changes. The units were required to be “sellable” to insure the testing performed on them was valid. To be sellable they have to have a proper VIN. Sometimes they were sold and sometimes not. I could see where there may be a number of cars out there with July or possibly June dates. Also, due to problems like Larry experienced, as a supplier, we were required to supply 25 pieces of each part number we supplied to service prior to first production units being shipped to the assembly plant. When you make 15~20 parts that come in 5~6 colors that would become a very tall order.

Charlie, You are missing the snap ring that goes on the end of the ignition lock rod. It goes in the two grooves at the end of that flat tab. It’s what holds the sector gear in place. You can get them at a hardware store so not to worry. But before you do that.... You'll need to pull that housing off to get to the torks screws that need to be tightened. It’s really very easy. 1. Remove the steering wheel lock rod spring, sector gear, the lock rod, and the ignition rack. 2. Place a screwdriver in the spring cover just below the column shaft. Pushing in slightly, turn the cover a quarter turn allowing it to release the spring slowly. There will be pressure against the cover from the spring so be ready to hold in while you turn it. Once the cover is off remove the spring. 3. Next remove the pivot pins. They make a special tool for this but you don’t really need it. I use a 13mm socket, a screw with a washer, and nut. It works great. You’ll place the socket over the pin with the hex end toward the pin and thread the screw through the socket into the pin. Next, using a wrench, tighten the nut toward the pin. Continue until the pin comes out. Do this on both sides. 4. Install the tilt lever and pull it toward you tilting the column all the way up. The tilt housing will release from the lower column at the top so just slide it off. 5. Just below it you’ll see the 4 reverse torks bolts that need to be tightened. Remember to use thread locker on them or this job will need to be done again. 6. Reverse the procedure to reassemble everything. Tips: 1. When reinstalling the pivot pins line them both up in the holes and use a large “C” clamp to slowly push them in from both sides. If you don’t have one you can tap them in one at a time with a plastic hammer. 2. When installing the tilt spring, do it with the column in the straight position. It’s just easier. 3. As you’re doing this watch to make sure you’re aligning the bearing rings etc.

Does the lever for the day/night function still work? Are you sure it goes to the lamp assembly? From what I can remember your lamp assembly is complete without the "L" shape piece. M2C

Charlie, Is there anyway you can post or send me pictures of you column. I believe your missing a snap ring that holds the sector gear but, I need to see where you're working.

Well, I wouldn't say expert. You'll find you can always learn something new. I like the electrical systems the most when it comes to tinkering with these old cars. Even though it can make you pull your hair out. Cedar Point? I've only been there once. I guess I'm not a big coaster fan. They do have a bunch of coasters there.

Yes, I guess you could say I've been in a few columns in my day. Here's a peek at what's in there. Believe it or not I can actully put this thing back together. LOL

Charlie, Yes, you can drive the pin down but it will most likely mangle the steering wheel locking pin spring and possibly what's left of the sector gear but not to worry. They're both in the repair kit you'll get at AutoZone or one of the other parts stores. They're sold under a brand name "HELP!". They sell many small replacement type parts I'm sure you've seen them if you've spent 5 minutes in any of these places. In a situation like this I operate under the theory of "If it don't fit force it. If it breaks it probably needed to be replaced anyway".

Charlie, Let's assume you've taken the tilt lever out. LOL I think your problem is the steering wheel locking pin is stuck in its bore. If you agree, try this: If you look between the 10:00 and 11:00 position in the bowl you'll see the tip of the pin sticking out of the boss. Unhook the battery if you haven't already. Push the upper bowl back down to the rest position on top of the column. Use needle nose pliers and rotate the lock rod clockwise to the run position. (This is inside the hole where the lock cylinder goes - flat tab) Once you've done that, take a small punch the place it on top of the lock pin and give it a few gentle taps. You should see it working its way down into the bowl. Each time you do this it should allow the upper bowl to slide up a little further. If it is working, continue until you have it out. Let us know how it’s going. BTW... Congratulations Grampa!!!! JC

Also, check the the black 16 gauge single wire connection at the horn relay. This wire supplies power to this cirucit as well. In addition your headlamp fuse is most likely blown.

First ignore the arrows in the picture. They were put there for another reason. This is a shot looking into the upper bowl. You can see the 3 places where the screws go. There is a countersink on the screws which creates the holding pressure to secure the upper bowl to the lower part of the column. Now… if you’re good… I mean really good, you can drill or grind away the head of the screws. This will leave only the threaded shaft of the screw. The upper bowl will slip off over the screws. Once it’s removed, you can remove the screws by using a vice-grip tool and turning them out. This should be considered the last option. Let us know how it goes. JC

My advice would be to take it off. It's easier to work on it while it's face up on a bench rather than sideways leaning over the fender. It's very easy to get it off. 1. Unplug it from the harness. 2. Remove windshield washer hoses. 3. Remove 3 bolts holding it to the firewall. 4. Pull the motor out about 3~4 inches. 5. Remove the nut holding the wiper transmission arm assembly. 6. Remove the motor assembly to your bench. This procedure should take you about 5 minutes.

The wiper motor is supplied 12 volts via the ignition switch and fuse block. The switch on the dash provides a ground to the motor. The "park" mechanism is a cam operated switch that continues to provide a ground to the motor after the dash switch is turned off. Once the wiper arms reach their "parked" position, the park switch contacts open, removing the ground from the motor which stops. So, for what ever reason, the park switch is not opening. There is a gear box that contains the park cam and switch mechanism. It has a lot of grease in there for the gears. Over time this grease solidifies and can cause the park switch contacts to stick on. If you're mechanically inclined, you may want to open up the gear case, clean out all of the old grease, clean the electrical contacts and apply new grease on the gears. I would recommend White Lithium grease.

Charlie, Based on what you're describing, I'm assuming your car has a tilt column in it. Yes, taking out those 3 Philips screws is the only way to get below the upper bowl to assess what your issue may be. The sector gear is made from plastic and teeth break off of it causing movement of the rack to be difficult. I've had success using a Philips impact driver to get them loose but be careful. You can damage the column if you get too carried away. Once you get the upper bowl off the 4 reverse torks screws can be tightened with an E8 socket. If you don’t have one you can use a 6MM socket. Take them out one at a time and put a little thread locker on them before you reinstall them. Let us know what you find out.

The complete set up is Edelbrock including the manifold, carbs., and linkage fresh out of the boxes. The motor is a 409/360 hp "W" head with a mild cam to make it a bit lumpy at idle. It sounds very good when I crack them both open from idle but I think it should run on one carb. till you get up to 3rd or 4th gear. Then start opening up the second one. He's running a 700r4 and 3:55 gears with 31" tall tires on 22" rims. (hey he's only 23 Y.O. what are you going to do? LOL) It does look really good. I'll post a picture soon.

I’m helping a friend prepare his ride for the season. He’s running a duel 4 barrel intake with two 650 Edelbrock carburetors. The linkage instruction sheet shows that it is to be adjusted so that both throttles open at the same time off idle. When I used to run a similar set up, the front carburetor didn’t open at all until you were at about 20% open on the rear. It was a progressive linkage. I can adjust it either way but I wanted to get your thoughts. It’s just a cruiser -1962 409 Impala, no race car. What do you think?