Mike 57

Sounds good Tony! You bring it down and I will draw some lines on it for you! Sam, Just the rear center brace. Then I welded the top portion of the hood to the braces where the opening is cut.

Well it is ready for paint here is the underside completed. The flash makes the color a little off.

Pretty good numbers, what size bore were they flowed on. What cc are the ports?

I am glad that you are using the math, but I would mock it up. Do you have a piston and rod available? Like Dave Said, check with Probe see what they have to say. If you are not going to spray it I don't see an issue. You may want to ask them about ring gap with the top ring closer to the deck. What compression are you shooting for?

.0015 out of the hole would not bother me at all.

I agree, timing gear.

Omar, Welcome! I checked out the pictures it is really dusty but looks pretty solid. You should be able to get into the 13s with that big block you are going for.

I would try a 10W30 in your choice of brand. I am not sure about the choice of racing oils for extended distance since the detergent package is lower. The Valvoline VR oils in regular and synthetic can be used in street engines. I use Valvoline Specialty Racing Oil ("Not Street Legal") in 10w30. It has a low detergent package. I carry 23 lbs of pressure at 1000 rpm and 77 lbs at 7000.

Leo is right on the prep costs. A quart of sandable primer is over 50 with the hardener, sealer is the same. By the way mine took 7 quarts of Dupont color. I did the inside of the hood and trunk and all the jambs. Make sure you stay with the same product line from primer to clear.

Lots of nice work there! Welcome!

Paul Carillon (Bowtie Thunder)has a really nice tubbed Monte. I have seen others that you can notice a bulge around the wheel well area. I think it is because the rear has dropped during the installation. Something like this is not for the faint of heart! You need to consider more than the cost of the back half. The back half is a minor part of the work. Wheel tubs and body and interior work that goes with it. Are you leaving the back seat out? are you going to cage it? It really helps support the back half. Who would do the work? Do they have a chassis jig. I am not trying to discourage you. I am doing a small car that we built a frame for. It is slow going doing it yourself. Keeping motivated is a major deal. Good luck if you decide to go that route.

I am surprised that the converter will not bolt up to the new plate. Can the pads be drilled? The crank pilot should index the converter.

The manufacturers may figure that if you are going with that long of rod, you have performance plans in the works. What are your goals?

Cometic makes a variety of gaskets from .027 to .120 for a BBC if you are .005 out the hole use a .045 gasket. I never get the head gaskets until I do a trial assembly and make final clearance checks. The piston that you are talking about is for a 4.25 stroke and a .250 long rod. The common compression distance for a 4 inch stroke is between 1.240 (Ross) and 1.245 (CP/Carillo)

Mine weighs 3992 full interior all steel. I did change the front brakes to Wilwood that probably took off 75 pounds. Also left out a few bumper braces.

Pulled the engine, took off the heads and put the short block in the corner.

Higher oil consumption is normal on a rebuild until the rings fully seat. What ring package are you running? Are they 5/64, 1/16 molly faced, cast or gapless? I hope you are running standard tension oil rings. Do you know if the block was honed with torque plates, what stones were used for the hone, and was it plateau honed? I have done a couple of engines with the KB pistons and had no issues.

Nice work

618 inch big block sounds like fun! I hope you can hook it up! I run a 28/10.5 and it is pretty tight.

I ran some numbers, you could probably claim around 360 hp at 5000 and 400 ft lb of torque at 3900. I could not find much info on the cam.

No way to make a guess on that without cam specs.

Here is a link, not cheap but it really helps. these are for 5/8 plugs. linky

Steve, they are spark plug sockets that turn over the end of the plug. If you notice they have a notch in them and can get in a really tight place. If you can start the plug you csn use these to tighten them with a 5/8 wrench.

I don' think patriot headers and patriot heads are the same company, but good luck with it! I had a similar issue with my AFR big block heads had to get these sockets and trim some 90 degree boots

different pump. stroke is not the same