Winston Wolf

The tires look to hit ok, but my 60 fts are still slow for what I'm running. I would say I average a 1.75 with some climbing to the 1.8 range. When I'm in those short times, it's usually doing a 11.64 ish. Here is a video of me against my cousin in his GTO. As close as 2 cars can get. Ends up being .082 difference across the line with reaction times.

Just a post to finish up this thread. Only got out a few times this year. Learned a couple things though. Having double adjustable rear shocks just makes it double as hard to dial them in. Never did get my 60 ft times as low as they were last year with the stock control arms, stock springs, no sway bar, and air shocks. Found out my issue with the car going lean on the top end was from not having enough gas in the tank. When the gauge got below 1/4, the fuel pressure would start to drop right at the end of the track. Keeping a few extra gallons in it solves that problem. Holley makes a nice electric fuel pressure gauge that you can mount inside the car. The Super Victor I ported ended up being about 2 MPH faster in the 1/4, and that pretty much exactly matches the 20ish HP it gained at the wheels on the dyno. I will never run an AC Delco spark plug again. I had several that were bad brand new and cost me alot of trouble shooting time. I changed to Champions, and all my ignition issues went away. Car has gone 11.54 @ 118.66 About the same as the guys with the bigger stroker small blocks. So, not much left to do with this engine, since I can't really run it any faster. Time to just enjoy it........

Now I do remember reading that. I was going to make a comment about not getting your hopes up, but didn't want to be a debbie downer. I only picked up 20 HP going from an Edelbrock and RPM intake to a Prosystems HP/Air Gap with open spacer. If you are picking up 4 tenths or something spectacular with just a carb swap, my thoughts are the carb that came off was either way the wrong size or not tuned properly. At least you do have a nice carb to work with now. I would work on the jetting and the timing and see if you can squeeze more out of it. Play with shift RPMs, launch RPMs, lots of things you can do... If you're worried about the cam, a couple valve cover gaskets, a dial indicator and an hour to measure everythig can help you sleep at night....

The L88 Vette drop base should only be about 50 bucks I think.

What's the rundown of what you have all changed again? Haven't been around here much as of late, and that info might help people make suggestions.

Too small.

MSD Digital E-Curve. Has everything and is the easiest to set up for anything. No stupid weights or springs to fumble with, and precision curves. Built in rev limiter, and can be run with or without a box.

A long time coming, now is when the fun starts. Sounds good, and I would guess you have a little more in it yet.

I would guess it will be somewhere in the 11.30-11.40 at 120 range. From the videos you showed me, that car seems to take off well, much better than I can figure out how to launch.

What's the runout when you turn the axle?

What did you end up running the the 1/4 now that it's working again?

My cousin dynoed his GTO on both, he runs a TH400. 505 FWHP on engine dyno 418 RWHP on a Dynojet. That's 17.1% Runs 11.50 @ 115 Runs 10.8 on juice, which made 488 RWHP on same dynojet.

So you have an aftermarket c clip eliminator kit?

What is your peak torque RPM and what RPM do you shift at?

If the trans goes, you will likely have junk in the converter. You would have to cut it apart and have it checked/cleaned. I blew a trans last year and when they took apart the converter, ($1000 model) it was clean. They weld it up and send it back for a nominal charge, all is not lost. For me it was actually free, since I had them re-stall it, which my place does once for free. Spend the money for a good one, it's worth the extra money and can drastically change the way the car will drives vs a cheap loose one.

haha, I suppose when I frame off the car and take the dash out. Then I can fix the tach that reads too high also....

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I like Lunati Everwear gear, or you can go with bronze.

Thought some of you guys would get a kick out of this. Just proving that you can still have fun with a small Chevy engine too.... Just nailing it in OD from about 20 mph, trans does all the work. Spins till 60ish, then off to the races. Windows down, full exhaust.

A lash change of .004" is equal to 2 deg of duration at .050" lobe lift.

I'd hardly call 10.6:1 "high compression". I would run it. Just keep it to 10 degrees and have it come off at a higher vacuum if your worried about it. Lot's of places have 93 octane, another thing to help you sleep at night.

Well, maybe a new converter is the ticket. What is your idle set at for speed? I cant believe if it's 1000 rpms when in drive it would still clunk out? FWIW, at one time I was running a 750 edelbrock carb that I thought was in good shape. But it always wanted to die in gear too. I thought it was my cam and just lived with it for years. When I changed to a new carb (different edelbrock) the problem was instantly gone. You may have been on the edge of a problem before, and this new trans put you over it. I'm not saying to go out and buy a brand new carb, but something to think about....

You do realize that the way you have it wired, the converter will be locked all the time in OD? When you accelerate it will be locked, as in a manual transmission, no converter slip. It doesn't matter if it's a 1500 stall or a 4500 stall, when it's locked it will drive the same, ie, chug at low rpms. A custom 200-4r lockup converter with heavy duty lock up clutches is just under a grand. If you do get one made, go big, at least 3500. Bigger is better than smaller since you can lock it up and get the best of both worlds. There are only a few people that make real good ones for that trans, start with Precision Industries.

I agree, does it do it in 2nd and 3rd?

I was running a 4.10 gear with 28" tires. It wasn't good either, even that was too high. I went to a 4.56 and it's much better. At 55 mph it's 2000 RPM's, and I don't let it lock under 55 mph. I'm running a bigger cam and smaller engine than you are. I hate hearing people say to run those 3.08-3.73 gears with the .67 OD, lock-up, and big tall 28" tires. Combined with a big cam, they just don't work together. With a wimp cam and an engine that runs good at 1400 rpms, it's great, but yours obviously aint one of those. Cruise at the RPM you built your engine to run at and it will be alot happier. What RPM do you want it to cruise at? I don't think 2750 at 75 is unreasonable. (which is a 4.56 and 28" tire) The GF just picked up a bone stock 6.6 78 T/A with an M20 and that rolls at 3200 at 75. A new gear set is only 200 bucks....