riverdogs00

Bryan, where did you order from? I'm in that phase now as well. Got the LS=7 fired up, and am buttoning all the little details up. Installed the wrong 3 row that came with the car, but used a BB shroud to get it on the road before I bit the bullet on a nicer 4 row M/T rad, but of course it leaked while filling today......

That pic helps a lot. It looks like the frame end of the spring is really long.

Yup, its an Offenhauser from back in the day ( I actually have 2 of them), and a couple of NOS 660 center squirters I found. Both the engine builder, and Steve Brule were impressed with the throttle response.

Hi Dennis, thanks for the reply. I have the american racing headers, and do not as of yet have the proper spring and bracket. The clutch itself does most of the return pressure, and I guess I just need a decent spring for the fork/linkage to stay in contact. The springs that I have I believe are Chevelle springs and way too long. Will see what the parts place delivers and how they differ - will provide pics if they are.

A few pictures of the 4 speed conversion - really more of a before and after and a few of some progress as it seems I'm doing noting but little projects within the larger ones ha. Oil pressure sending unit plumbed, starter solenoid wire routed, clamped and heat shielded, Zbar in place, trans crossmember installed. Need to finish up with the correct return spring and linkage, Acquire and run the battery cables, decide where to mount the coil, decide which ground straps and where it install, then reinstall the wheel liner, and shroud/rad etc. Its a lot more fun when you dont have to drive it to work on monday ha

Good morning, does the spring ride against the headers with the bracket in place? Do you have a picture of yours? I just got my M23 installed, and ordered the return spring bracket, adjuster, and spring from the parts place. The conversion kit I received was for a chevelle and a few of the parts did not work. I have the Americans bolted to my LS-7, but am not seeing a unimpeded line to the frame for the spring.

I installed 3.31's and a tru trac on 70 SS that had the same 2.56 open. I find that its happiest in the 25-65mph range. Mine is more of an intown cruiser rather than the highway. It will certainly run at 70+, but I dont like to buzz it that high for mile after mile. If you intend to run it at highway speeds (55-80) a lot, Id consider staying with what you have or the 3.08's. I have 235-60-15's, so it a short tire. when its time for new tires, I plan to go taller. My other 454/4sp 70' has 275/60/15's, but its not on the road yet. It took me a few tries and different speedo gears to find the right one after I changed gears.

Group, The motor trend article came out for this engine. I wish they would have contacted me first, as I found 2 errors, but the meat of it is there. There was not 6 qts of oil put in it, and GM never rated it at 522 HP. It was factory rated at 465. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/original-454-ls7-big-block-chevy-crate-engine-dyno-westech/

Yup, still trying to get it wired. Not my strong suit

New bracket arrived from the parts place - looks correct. Posting a few pics of it, with their contact info and part number, and side by side with the traditional GM a body part. Thx to Montemedic for the tip. It was $14 vs $65 for the used item.

perfect. I have access to both of those items

I wondered about that. Its intact, just removed. will need to dig into our DMV a bit. I know after the initial VIN inspection on my SS, nothing further is needed other than a trip to renew tags with no further visual inspections. I've never even had the wipers on my SS on (do they work?? lol) in the 6 years Ive owned it.

I could easily push the wires back through, tape up and put the grommet back in place. Would need to remove the relay and such. Id think I could just leave the under dash items still connected. This actually would be the best option. Will just need to label and make sure all are insulated/capped. That wood the right size can be hard to come by - especially right at the moment when you realize you need it.

Yup, agreed. That's why I'm asking. This car simply wont be driven in inclement weather. I'm looking for options

I did look under the dash to see if I could simply pull the whole harness back through, coil up, tag and secure but that whole dash has to come out to do it.

Group, on my 70' that I've converted from a 350/350 to 454/4spd, I'm trying to eliminate as much clutter as I can. Part of that entails the AC. Everything under the hood has been removed and now am cleaning up wiring. I won't be using the wipers, blower motor etc on this car. My question is two fold. There is a grommet at the firewall where all of the wiring goes through ( see pic). Had I realized when I had rhe whole dash out I would have tackled then, but the dash is all back in (changed heater core before I realized I won't be running heater hoses to the engine). I can simply cut the wires and push them through the grommet, but wondered if there was a better way. I don't anticipate ever needing the ac, but if I ever sold it, it would be nice if that option existed. The other question, is whether or not eliminating the TCS relay, and associated items would cause any issue. I doubt it, but wanted to ask. Btw, the wood is holding the engine in place until my Trans arrives

Group, These pics are only for reference for future searches of this topic. Shown is the incorrect bracket for the GM A body that is too short for our cars, as well as a clear picture of the correct bracket. Hopefully it will help others in the future. I will let you know if the $14.00 bracket from the parts place is the correct one when it arrives today. If not, then its the $65.00 used bracket on Ebay.

Thats the one I ordered a couple of days ago. No pic on the website however. We will see

The bracket shown on the 396 site is what I have already received and its incorrect. The second site has the correct bracket, it appears but the store is closed ha. Just my luck

I called the parts place this am. They assured me that the part, while not pictured, is the correct one for our cars. I ordered...we will see

I looked online, and of course they do not have a picture of the frame bracket. when I looked at their conversion kit https://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/product/1970/1970-chevrolet-monte-carlo-4-speed-conversion-kit-kit-includes-brake-and-clutch-pedals-z-bar-clutch-pedal-pushrod-pedal-pushrod-boot-retainer-clutch-fork-boot-clutch-fork-adjustable-clutch-fork-pushrod-clutch-fork-ball-clutch-return-spring-s-z-bar-frame-bracket-z-bar-hardware-kit-containing-an-engine-ball-stud-frame-side-ball-stud-1-retainer-1-felt-washer-2-nylon-bushings/35626 It shows the same incorrect bracket I already have. not sure ha

I found this company that reproduces it, but its sold out. At least I have a clear picture of it. https://4speedconversions-com.3dcartstores.com/3972641_r1.html

Thx guys, yup the one I have that came with the kit is off angle and too low. thank you

Group, Doing a 4 speed conversion on a 70', and I wondered if anyone had a Clear picture of their Z-bar frame bracket. The conversion kit I bought was pretty complete, but its obvious the frame bracket is wrong. I just wanted to see if it makes sense to modify the one I have, or try to make one. I could potentially remove the forward bolt, and swing into place and redrill, but am wondering about the height of the notch. Seems like a pic I saw from ss454-71 showed a bracket that was taller.

Group, the powermaster starter i bought and used was this one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9000 a high torque mini starter. I ran into interference with cylinder #2. I've clearenced the tube (big hammer) and was able to get about3/16" or from the corner of the starter motor. I bought a Moroso starter shield and it fit great, until the headers went back on. see attached pics. I ended up at the end, wrapping the rear portion of the starter motor with heat shield, and then modifying the aluminum sandwiched Moroso shield. It primarily will take care of the solenoid, and the front 3/4's of the starter motor. The wrap I hope is enough for the rear portion.