riverdogs00

much better info than what I had - never saw this post before.

Group, one of my project cars is a 70' SBC/350/10 bolt that is being converted to a mid 70's 454 LS-7 / M23 / 9" / AC delete. I read the various forums, but didn't recall seeing the difference between the SBC/BBC fan shrouds. I always presumed the tunnel was different as well as the shroud, but read otherwise. I ordered a BBC shroud from the parts place, and when I compared it to the SBC shroud I had, I could see the height difference. The SBC shroud is much taller. I removed the staples from the tunnel, found the appropriate drill bit size for the wire I had (5/64"), and mocked it up. I used the existing holes on the tunnel and it went together in about an hour. I should have taken pics of the new shroud before the tunnel install, but didn't think about it. The engine pic is my other car - SS454 and factory shroud for comparison. I should note the SBC shroud was from an AC car, and I understand there are 3 different shrouds for our cars. Hope this is of help to the group

Dan, will there be a problem with the radiant heat to the proportioning valve?

New gears, carrier, axles installed. I had the shop return my axles and ring/pinion/carrier. I will just box up in case I ever sell the car. There is a little gear whine, but as i go through the break in period it's getting quieter. Run it easy for 15 min, let sit for 45 min. repeat 4x. change the fluid at 1000 miles. Now I have to redo the speedo gear. I've been reading the threads and ordered what I hope is the right driven gear.

Turns out I need new axles too, and a wheel cylinder. To be expected I suppose. Any reason to keep any of the old parts?

going with the 3.31's and an Eaton Trutrac. install scheduled for Thursday. I'll get new tires after i have a little fun with the 6yr old BFG's

outstanding dan !!

I'm assuming the 3 letter code should match that on the engine as well? for example, if my 454 has CRN, should the axle match?

great info thanks!

I decided on the Amsoil "Z-rod" 10/30. ( http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ZRTQT-EA ) Not that I will be able to tell any difference or not, but at least I feel better knowing I have some measure of protection. This car has less than 50k on it and I have no smoke. Cam wear? who knows. We will see! Mike

Awesome, thank you guys! On a side note, I FINALLY got my title situation resolved. After 5 weeks (I used the time to fix the p/s leak, change the oil, fix a few small interior things), and a 5 hour wait at DMV I at least have a 30 day trip permit and can drive the car legally. There was a snafu with the VIN on my insurance card, so getting that resolved this week and plates next week. Took the car and drove it over the weekend and put 30 miles on it. Still have things to fix, but it was FUN to finally drive it. Thx for all the advice and insight folks M

Hi guys, I am in need of a pass side inner fender as mine is split where the battery brace bolts to it in 2 places. I'm leery of plastic, but have not seen them in person. Obviously they must be well made or several of you would not be liking them. I'm understanding that the chevelle metal inners are different, correct? Should I replace a pair, vs just one? What about strength of the plastic piece supporting the weight of the battery, or load leveler?

ARRRRGHHH lol it's definitely noticeable. I'm going to have to get the door resprayed I think

My doors are sagging just a tad, and I'm interested to see how folks respond

Group, thank you for all of the feedback. My current, and probably continued tire is a 235/60/15. I agree the 3.31's is probably the best compromise. I would enjoy a posi / limited slip unit and the ability to lay some rubber down on occasion. The car is not registered or plated just yet. I ran into a snafu in Nevada, and have to have it re-titled in Florida in the widow's name, and of course she has been out for a few weeks. I've only had it out around the block and have not got on it, simply puttering around to get a feel for it. I took the opportunity to reseal my power steering pump and just finished that today. I bought a new pump and resevoir and was about to put it in when i dropped it and kinked the return line fitting. I just re-sued my original reservoir and a rebuilt pump and it works great. I am sick though.......I had the car on jack stands to cycle the power steering, and went to start it. opened the door and did not realize the door was in a little bind and promptly took a 1" x 1"2 strip of paint right off the leading edge of the driver door. I could have cried.

Group, I wanted to get the groups opinion on rear end gears for my SS. The car is a low mileage (approx 60k), and a mix of original and reproduction items. It's been repainted, and repo seat covers, carpet,dp's installed. Drive train appears to be original and for the most part untouched. There are a few non stock items - upgraded ignition and wires for example, new "correct" style Qjet, and now P/S pump, and of course the load leveling is gone, but I'm slowly acquiring all of the pieces to reinstall that system. The car has the highway 2.56's in it, and I'm really torn. I am thinking of installing something in the 3.31-3.55 range with a posi/limited slip, etc just to make the heavy car a little more responsive around town. The car is just a weekend cruiser, not a race car. It will not be a 100 pt show car, nor a museum piece, but rather a mostly original/correct fun weekend car that I hope maintains it's value. There will be some highway 65-70 mph running as well in and around my local area. I'm torn as i want to keep the car as original as possible, yet enjoy driving it more. The question is this: If I swap gears, do you think it hurts the value of the car? Has anyone made this swap with the LS5, and what do you see? Is the difference worth it? M

Dennis, Was there a trick that you used to reinstall the pump into the housing? I bought a replacement pump to install into my original housing. clocked it correctly and and inserted, and pressed together by hand as best i could and then used the 3 bolts to draw it in uniformly. I had approximately 1/8" of the pump body still protruding from the housing, and when I looked at my old pump, it seemed about right. However, when i tried to install it into the bracket (the one with the slot that fits on the rear bottom stud), I find that I'm about 1/16 or so off and cannot fit it in. when I look at the pump/reservoir I can see just a hint of the pump o-ring and i feel it needs to be drawn in just a touch more, but cannot seem to find a way to do it. I bought a replacement pump/reservoir from rock auto and can install while I'm playing with this one. The only part that has a number on it is the pulley, and i suppose as long as i keep the original it will be fine. Mike

I have a pair on the way....single digit amount left in stock

Thank you!

Group, pursuing rock auto now. Are these the correct rear shocks ( 504516 ), or would we go with this one ( GABRIEL 49152 ). Mike

I bought a rebuilt pump yesterday and will install on the factory reservoir next weekend. when i looked at the new pump, I could see that those holes were blind, and no way for fluid to escape. I'm sure it's most likley the front seal as well. thx for the reply!

MCfan, is it possible for fluid to leak out of the lower mounting bolts vs the front seal? I have a leak, put it up on ramps and it appears to be the 9/16 head screw. I was able to tighten it a 1/4 turn and will take it out and see if that fixes it. I did not notice fluid from the front seal, but really did not look to deep at it as i was focusing on where the drip was.

mine fits the same as above....

my stamp reads T0317CRN

I do see the Chevelle stuff site, and the pic of the CRN code, noted as Monte Carlo only. all of the others I've found list Chevelle. weird