MGD72Monte

Interesting, I would have thought removing that much in tail pipe would be much louder. It's relatively tough to find something which gives you that great idle/slow cruise sound and just the right amount of background rumble at highway speeds.

Posting, minutes from surgery, now that's dedication to the club! May you pull out of this and be stronger still. Prayers on the way.

Thanks for the quick response Ian, The error messages are gone and if you stick with 12 pics per page you can navigate through the entire album and sort it so it works enough, but there is still something wrong with the drop down menu in that view. Whenever you select another number than 12 from the drop down menu such as 24, it initially shows you 24 pics from the album but every time you try to move to another page, it defaults back to 12 and if you pic 24 again, you will see the same 24 over again and never see the others. Effectively the drop down menu in the sort view does not work beyond one page. Ultimately it would be better and simpler (if possible) to have a show "entire album" on one page option to select on the drop down. It would make it easier to sort the pics as well.

Yeah but this is just the latest sitting, there have been numerous ones before that, like the bodywork sitting, then the left home and couldn't take her with me sitting, then the reunited let's overhaul the engine and do interior refurb sitting, then the front suspension overhaul and other assorted snowball projects sitting and some other small ones I am probably forgetting. I'll admit they don't total up to 23 years... I've only owned it for 24 .

I posted something on this problem a while back but still having problems. Note that this problem started sometime in June when the viewer for photos changed. Here is what happens: When I click on "sort photos" in an album the following error messages come up: Warning: Division by zero in /home/fgmcccom/public_html/photopost/pp-inc.php on line 2140 and Warning: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() in /home/fgmcccom/public_html/photopost/templates/forumstyle/orderphotos.tmpl on line 38 If you then select a number other than 0 per page the pics appear but the max available to select is 24 per page. If your album is 24 or less you can sort the photos but if it has more than 24 photos and you try to go to the next page you get the same error messages as above and never make it to the other pages to be able to sort the other photos. Thanks

I've done it as well, no issues either

No joy so far, at least not with the engine off but that process sounds logical to me. Thanks. Will be going for another test run later today. Originally Posted By: cbolt Doesn't it feel great to get to drive it after all that hard work? I take it everything worked well other than the brake light issue... You bet although I will admit that I'm always nervous on the first run, listening to every sound and wondering what it is and what I could have messed up. I heard a weird sound at one point and was concerned until I realized it was from a nearby train . So far so good other than the brake light and minor stuff.

Cool, in my case I thought it was OK except for a squeak. When I went to replace the springs I found the bushings to be real bad. One of the front lower ones was so bad the sleeve had gone through the bushing as well as the bushing casing and was eating away at the actual LCA (that was the squeak!). My car had lots of rough miles before I got my hands on her .

Well done, I like the feeling of finding the solution to an anoying problem.

Yeah, I'm slow but finally today I was ready to go for a test drive after my differential overhaul/undercarriage spruce up and rear suspension upgrade. Actually it is not really an upgrade yet, other than the stuff being new or refurbished. I still have to throw on the new swaybar on those boxed LCAs for full effect, but it is drivable and I wanted to have the memory of a recent drive without the sway bar to see if there is a noticeable difference. After I filled the front bowl, she fired up right away. Went for a 14 mile drive, took it easy, letting everything work itself in. I'm going to double check the diff fluid level tomorrow and go for a longer ride. During the reassembly I had some challenges with the brake line connections leaking so ended up having to drain the system, bench bleed the master cylinder, etc... Works fine now but got that anoying "brake" light in the dash. In the past it has gone away. Anyone know how to help that plunger recenter itself or is there a chance it will eventually go away?

Nice Rodney, I put Poly on the front suspension of mine and am satisfied with it. Good on you for doing the install yourself. I did that too. I used rubber for the back so I'm curious to get your reviews on it when it is back on the road. Have you done the front as well?

I have a stock style fan with clutch and have thought about eventually going to electric but I would want to keep the stock look. For now I'd just focus on getting the major stuff restored so sticking with stock is easier and cheaper. Once the car is looking and running good, that's when I would look at other projects to make it even better. Electric is more efficient, no question, but it can be costly and it is not one of those projects you absolutely need to decide on when the car is torn down. Food for thought

Wow, that's some great resto work on these belts Rodney. It's those little details that show the quality of a restoration. My buckles are the large plastic ones and they were not nearly as bad as yours but I washed every one of the them and the belts came out pretty good, but yours look brand new.

You should just be able to screw the normal fittings in, you do have to apply a bit of torque, they won't go in all the way by hand; get a wrench.

Well today was another day and after some procrastination, I decided to go back into the abyss and try again to resolve that leaking brake line. This time I tried to use the old flex line, filled the system and found that, although improved, the static leak was still there despite some agressive torquing. So I drained the rear portion of the system yet again (an uncomfortable mess every time) and decided to cut the steel line and reflare it (thank God there was sufficient extra line to do so). I also went to the store and picked up a new flare nut as the old one was starting to look a little tired of being muscled. After some uncomfortable under the car flaring (twice) and rebending the line it seems to finally be sealing! at least statically. I now have to find time to remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it to get the air out and confirm it can stand the full pressure. Here is a pic of the flare I cut off. The only slight defect I can see is at the 3 o'clock position but how the heck did it manage to seal for 20+ years. The shop that installed it must have had a gorilla on staff to torque it down . Thanks again for the inputs, good diagnosis Sam and Jim, I definetly did not think the existing flare was the problem. Another lesson learned the long way.

Great to hear from you Rob, hope your recovery continues. Take it slow.

Jacob, Here is a thread which might give you some ideas on where to put the gauges linky. As far as how to connect them, there should be detailed instructions with the gauges but if you have a specific question on a specific gauge, we can probably give you our input. For the dash lights portion you just have to tap into any dash light related wire you can find, but I much prefer going directly to the fuze box. There is a free blade connector on the bottom left called "LPG" on my 72 next to the 4 Amp "INST LPG" fuse. You bring all the dash light wires of your added gauges into a spade and simply plug it in there. It's clean, professional and will give you the best connection. I like to draw out of my new wiring and confirmed existing wiring as it is more specific than the standard wiring diagram which does not have all the options or cut wires of my set up. Good luck

Well, after that frustrating experience, and a series of straight days working on the Monte I did not get back to it today, I needed to take a break and do something else... and let my hair grow back. Thanks for all your thoughts and informative points, I'm hoping I can get to the bottom of this.

Thanks, I'll guess I have to digest that. The flare looks good to me and that is the existing line that held onto the old hose without leak for 20+ years. I'll have another look at it tomorrow. My thought was to go for the last part changed but maybe I need to rethink or maybe take up knitting instead. Originally Posted By: stangeba I'm remembering a problem like this and it involved metric parts. Not clear on the details but it was a 1957 Mercedes Benz. The SAE replacement lines almost worked but leaked. They looked the same to the eye. Good luck and let us know where NOT to get the flex line from. Well I'd doubt it is a metric issue or the other two fittings would also leak. Thanks for the encouragement, I'll let you know how it turns out.

OK, maybe just someone that knows more than me. Incidently I know this is not on suspensions but I did not know where to run this thread. I replaced the rear rubber flex hose and all steel brake lines on the diff as part of a rear end refurb. As soon as I put brake fluid in there I had leaks at every fitting except one. I managed to tighten the leaks away except for the one between the main line coming from the front and the flex hose. I tried everything I could think of, removing, retorquing, checking threads. Other than adding an extension to my line wrench to get more torque (not realistic) I couldn't think of what else to do so I removed the new flex line. The flare on the steel line looks good by the way and it was sealing fine with the old flex line. Here is a pick of the old flex line on the left and new one on the right. The new one has a larger inner opening and correspondingly wider taper which likely means less contact with the flare to seal? Otherwise, I have no clue what is going on. I'm thinking of trying the old flex line tomorrow. I don't remember having this trouble when I did the front. Everything seemed to go in without having to call in a wrestler to torque the lines down. Any ideas?

Great pics, thanks for sharing, looks like it was a great time. Awesome garage, .... salivating.

Thanks, actually I'm talking about a measure of the driveshaft straightness measured with a dial indicator at different locations along the length. I did some hunting around and found a related thread on the LS1 site. Seems that 0.005" is probably a good limit unless anyone else has other info.

I thought I read something about this before but can't find it. Does anyone know the driveshaft runout specs? Thanks

Filled it today but only took 1.5 Qts? Still a few more days until I get to drive it. I'll check it again after the first few miles.

Rob, Thanks, by "never torque mine" I assume you mean just tighten them by hand without a torque wrench. I guess my philosophy has been to use proper torques whenever possible. In this case I don't understand why this kind of part would fail before the minimum torque value. It's nice to know that I may not have to worry about it too much. Just got to get my hands on a new part.