TrunkMatt

Jared -- I couldn't agree more. Every new motor will have its issues, and there are so many GREAT local engine builders who have bene doing this for 20+ years & know the ins and outs. Factory built crates of the old style motors are just sold in too small of number for the big guys to give it "personal attention / process" WIth the 383 I have had built, I had some minor issues etc and the engine builder even came out to my house once to check in. Even to swap in a new flywheel from a different manufacturer because "he really didn't like the old ones he was using, and these new ones are stronger" Go local. It may be a few hundred more -- but man, the warranty service you'll get is tied to the person's name... and they want a good name.

Hmmm... when I had a Qjet I had the same issue... could be a few things, but this one is easy: Check the accelerator pump shot (with the engine off). Move the throttle fully two times while watching the carb. If you don't get TWO good squirts when pulling the throttle open, the pump cup is likely bad, and not refilling the pump shot reservoir. Also, it should be "squirting" as soon as you move the throttle, if there is any "lag" in when you move the throttle and the pump shoots fuel, than that is causing the bog... as you are not getting a fuel shot in time to help the idle circuit transition to the main jets.

Pop in exhaust = rich, pop in carb = lean You are loading fuel up from somewhere... if you haven't messed with idle / carb than check your spark plugs and find the one that looks fouled and troubleshoot from there... the plug on the responsible cylinder will definitely show it. This website will ID issues based on how your plugs look: http://autopartsinfo.blogspot.com/2012/04/bad-spark-plug-symptoms.html

I have what I consider a medium built 383... nothing too wild, very drivable... spent about $3,500 total having a local builder build it from the ground-up using a high-nickel block and PRO Comp 64cc aluminum heads @ 10:1 compression. Anyhow it Engine Dyno'd (not rear wheel dyno) at: Max HP: 480.28 Max Torque: 437.44 Peak HP was at about 6,250 rpm with rolloff (HP decrease) at 6,500 rpm I am not running a roller-cam or anything majorly expensive. Using just your usual Z06 Hotcam .488/.510 - 234/244 with hydraulic lifters. I love it as I get decent vacuum (16hg) Anyhow - those numbers are pretty impressive without throwing any huge amount of $$$ down. So my take on how far you can take a small block is "How much money do you have?" Also - here is a good page of Dyno'd engine builds off Small Blocks: http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html They have over 100 combos that have been built / rated / dyno'd

Yes indeed!! Scientifically proven to be 20 degrees cooler inside in the sun Measuring the heat difference was amazing... I may actually go WHITE in the future... I am a changed man.

LOL - a good ribbing time indeed!!!! Actually, this photo pretty much sums up Doug's reaction to receiving the award this year: Such a perfect facial expression for that award. It couldn't have went to a nicer guy...

Christine says: "If anyone sees one they really want - PM and we'll send you the full high-resolution version"

The wife put up some of her photo selections... http://flic.kr/s/aHsjBmkNGE Here is one of my favorites... While on the poker-run, rather than idling away our gas and watching the temperature gauges rise while waiting in line, we decided to park and drive our imaginary cars instead.

I'd have the plates balanced checked anyhow just the be sure. When I built my 383, the flexplate I was using from my 350 ended up being just out of balance enough to give me some vibrations in the 3,000 - 3,400 rpm range... and changing out to a new plate made a world of difference.

Very excited for this one!!

Wait -- I missed the part that you put an injection system on...

I'm tellin' ya, use a Vacuum gauge to better tune your timing and idle. Google around about tuning with a vacuum gauge (for both timing and carb) 350 Small block, you should be able to idle at 500-600 rpm in gear... and start quick. 1000 rpm idle in gear is way too much. I am cam'd pretty heavy and I can still fire up with no issue and idle at 400 in gear without stalling (no stall converter either) and plenty of power off the line.

$70 for a Dyno tuning??? Wish I lived where you do... they charge us $300 out here...

Definitely too big... I run a Holley Street Avenger 670 Carb on my 383 Stroker. You definitely don't need 670 on a normal 350... it won't do anything for you except cause issues, you don't have the cubic inches to utilize it... it will be a pain in the rear to tune.

Running way rich will do it more toward the back of the exhaust system...