jacob

Thanks everyone I removed the neutral safety switch cleaned all the copper tabs. Also found that only one bolt was bolting it to the steering column so I found another bolt on one of my other columns and it now cranks up and runs using the key.

I also have a champion radiator 3 row cools to 1000hp my car has a 180 thermostat and has never got above 180 i cant drive it yet the body's still not ready but i don't think it will ever overheat.

working on my 2nd 1972 Monte put on a new engine wiring harness the previous owner hooked up the jumper cables wrong and fried a few wires and all the starter wires were cooked by the exhaust. that has now been replaced ive been cranking the car with my remote start and cutting the car off with the key... it wont crank with the remote start without the key in the start position but it does absolutely nothing when you turn the key. ive checked at the starter there's power at the big terminal and the black ignition wire no power at the purple wire even when the key is switched on and i checked power at the coil( it has points) the positive had power with the key off and with the key in it at the cranking position the negative post on the coil has power. any ideas whats happening? i also put the tester on the horn relay and it had power and theres 4 wires that go on the stud. also no brake lights, turn signals or backup lights the dash and the gauges arent in the car yet i wanted to be able to fire it up with the key before i got to much stuff in the way thanks in advance.

If you do decide to replace the radiator champion radiators are a good way to go I have a 3 row aluminum radiator that cools up to 1000 hp its on sale now for 209.98 no leaks never has gotten above 180.

cool car keep the pictures coming how does it ride with air ride.

Try grade 8 fasterns its a company that makes locking grade 8 bolts there really cool and more than strong enough and you can get them off if you need to. and use antizees on the threads helps getting them back out and it keeps water from getting to the threads so they wont rust.

I got both front and rear from Hothckis the front is a 1 3/8 bar and the rear is like a 1 1/4 Im using tubular lower control arms on the bottom and adjustable tubular on top so I could adjust pinion angle. It will defiantly make a big difference adding one to the rear cant wait to finally drive it with new suspension under it.

I have ARP header bolts with a 5/16 head they fit great even where the pipe turns and use some anti-seize on those new bolts helps getting them in and out and won't burn up.

mine did not have that either just rat droppings .

cam ,cylinder heads, intake carb getting the right combo will maximize horse power and torque. check around with edelbrock AFR dart and some of the other big companies they could get you every thing you need to make more power.

If you remove the front end be sure to bag all the bolts and label them and put them away some where they wont get messed with or lost.

wear gloves when using por 15 it eventually comes off but nothing can take it off the solvent can clean up paint guns but when its dry its like a rock.

theres a little snow left where they scraped the roads into big piles but other than that its all gone ... back to the usual high 40s low 50s.

after watching that i feel like ive just entered just kidding great video

alright that's what I thought I just don't want to blow any thing up... Sam I love the way your car looks

I have a sunpro tach that I want to set up but there's no wiring harness and fuse box so ive got the power going to the kill switch the side that goes to the battery. the red wire goes to the distributor where it says tach, the ground wire runs to where the tachs mounted is that the correct way to do that?

No torque converter with the transmission and yes it was out side but it was under a work bench and had a big trash bag on it so it was some what covered up it was gray but most of that has peeled off. What rebuild kit would you guys recommend

I love the frame mods I want to do it to mine now

Ill be getting a TV cable from Lokar and im going to have Kieth my transmission guy set it up so if it goes crazy he set it not me. the trans has been sitting for several years but it does have transmission fluid in it. And no idea what it came out of the guy that got it didn't know either

I want to put together a list of things to talk about with my transmission man I want to make it alot stronger than I need because I don't want to have to pull it out to get it rebuilt again ... and in the future I see a big block Tubro 400 and gear vendors and doing one of these NOTE THE GUYS HOLDING THERE EARS

talked to a friend and for $70 dollars I got this 700r4 wanted to get opinions on upgrades torque is the biggest killer for this transmission so I want it to be overkill as far as strength. Any suggestions? what are the weak points in a 700r4 what does changing to a corvette servo change? heres some pictures what year tranny is this any concerns

I have a 3 row aluminum radiator rated for 1000 hp from champion radiators it's a big radiator but it fits with no modifications so far it's never gotten above 180 degrees even while doing the break in and doing nearly 3000 rpms for half an hour. And it was only $ 269 so a new radiator won't break the bank and is a good price.

I have the american thunder kit 2.5 inch with 40 series flowmasters came with all the hangers and hardware. sounds good its a aggressive sounding exhaust and its 409 stainless steel.

yeah that's one of the first things im going to do is weld that middle section together just got a 27 pound bottle of argon and co2 mix for $119. And heres my current progress

Do I need additional bracing to remove the inner rockers and all 3 of the floor braces I have the body X braced with a support between both quarters and one running parallel to the fire wall. notice the hood and new floor